302/C4 vs Flathead/T5
#1
302/C4 vs Flathead/T5
1949 Ford F1...So originally I was going the 302/C4 route but I picked up flathead that looks rebuildable. Unfortunately, Im finding out how expensive it is to rebuild. Im thinking installing 302/c4 and take my time with flathead/T5 (1-2yrs). Has anyone installed 302/C4? What changes were done to frame? My concern is that I wont easily be able to eventually replace 302 with Flathead.
#2
Price out a rebuild on the 302 to make a fair comparison. The shops I got quotes from don't differentiate between boring a flathead or a OHV. Same for grinding valves, assembly, decking, etc. Quality flathead parts aren't much different than quality OHV parts. With the 302 you get a lot more power, but you have the costs of frame mods, electrical mods, exhaust, on and on. Pick your poison, this isn't a cheap hobby.
#3
My apologies; forgot to mention that I already have the 302/C4. I pulled it out of my 71 F100. The 302/c4 were rebuilt about 2 years ago with about 2500miles on it. My goal is to keep the F1 as intact as possible, minimal mods. I've seen some posts that 302/C4 is fairly easy install with adding aftermarket cross-members (engine & tranny). I just dont know if I will need to cut out anything out of the frame?
#4
The 302/c4 combo is about the easiest drivetrain swap you'll find. It can be done without major frame mods. Personally, I wouldn't use the aftermarket crossmembers. They may not set the engine in the correct spot to take advantage of not cutting the existing crossmembers. The C4 mount will fit right at the trans crossmember, and you will need to make a corresponding pad for it to attach to, which could be either welded or bolted if you wanted to remove it later. The engine can then be set at the appropriate angle and custom side mounts can be fabbed for the engine isolators. All of this can be done without making any floor or firewall modifications.
All this said, there will be considerable expense and time afforded to make it all work, even if you have the engine and trans available. You'll need to decide on where you want to put your resources; setting up a temporary engine or rebuilding the one you really want.
All this said, there will be considerable expense and time afforded to make it all work, even if you have the engine and trans available. You'll need to decide on where you want to put your resources; setting up a temporary engine or rebuilding the one you really want.
#5
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#7
Agreed, Im taking it to a machine shop next week. There are some well known places for flatheads in Southern California, unfortunately thats where Im getting a range of $4k-$6k to end up with a complete engine. I want to salvage and do as much as I can to get the price down and I would be very happy with $2.5K. I'm happy with the 100hp that the flatty came with. I do want the T5 so I can cruise the highways. Did you do most of the assembly on your flatty?
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#8
Yes, I've had it apart 3X for various reasons. They are very simple engines, you can put one together in a day once you've done it.
I've heard of these $4 - 5k rebuilds, it would be worth it to pay shipping to get away from the SoCal premium. There is a very good shop in OK, one in UT (PM user "jmadsen" on here to get particulars), one in PHX, three in NM, a couple in Denver. For a stock rebuild with overbore, new pistons, a couple of valves and guides, valve job, all new bearings, new Melling oil pump, no line-boring or decking, vatting 2X and crack-checking, I paid $2300. I supplied new adjustable lifters (I paid $100 for them), and I provided the gaskets ($60). A valve job using the stock lifters (non-adjustable) costs about $100 more, there's a lot to be said for going that way. Make sure your engine has hardened valve seats (a '49 engine should have them, but if it was ever swapped....)!
I've heard of these $4 - 5k rebuilds, it would be worth it to pay shipping to get away from the SoCal premium. There is a very good shop in OK, one in UT (PM user "jmadsen" on here to get particulars), one in PHX, three in NM, a couple in Denver. For a stock rebuild with overbore, new pistons, a couple of valves and guides, valve job, all new bearings, new Melling oil pump, no line-boring or decking, vatting 2X and crack-checking, I paid $2300. I supplied new adjustable lifters (I paid $100 for them), and I provided the gaskets ($60). A valve job using the stock lifters (non-adjustable) costs about $100 more, there's a lot to be said for going that way. Make sure your engine has hardened valve seats (a '49 engine should have them, but if it was ever swapped....)!
#9
#10
How did you do the clutch? Are you using a Mustang 5.0-style bellhousing? I don't know of a 302-to-stock trans adapter. At any rate, the T5 behind any engine requires major surgery on the crossmember.
#11
Yes, I've had it apart 3X for various reasons. They are very simple engines, you can put one together in a day once you've done it.
I've heard of these $4 - 5k rebuilds, it would be worth it to pay shipping to get away from the SoCal premium. There is a very good shop in OK, one in UT (PM user "jmadsen" on here to get particulars), one in PHX, three in NM, a couple in Denver. For a stock rebuild with overbore, new pistons, a couple of valves and guides, valve job, all new bearings, new Melling oil pump, no line-boring or decking, vatting 2X and crack-checking, I paid $2300. I supplied new adjustable lifters (I paid $100 for them), and I provided the gaskets ($60). A valve job using the stock lifters (non-adjustable) costs about $100 more, there's a lot to be said for going that way. Make sure your engine has hardened valve seats (a '49 engine should have them, but if it was ever swapped....)!
I've heard of these $4 - 5k rebuilds, it would be worth it to pay shipping to get away from the SoCal premium. There is a very good shop in OK, one in UT (PM user "jmadsen" on here to get particulars), one in PHX, three in NM, a couple in Denver. For a stock rebuild with overbore, new pistons, a couple of valves and guides, valve job, all new bearings, new Melling oil pump, no line-boring or decking, vatting 2X and crack-checking, I paid $2300. I supplied new adjustable lifters (I paid $100 for them), and I provided the gaskets ($60). A valve job using the stock lifters (non-adjustable) costs about $100 more, there's a lot to be said for going that way. Make sure your engine has hardened valve seats (a '49 engine should have them, but if it was ever swapped....)!
#12
I used a stock 89 Mustang bellhousing. I have the body off of the frame right now in the body shop being painted. If you are interested in some pictures o the drivetrain, I can take them and send them to you. email me at rswhitmore@yahoo.com.
#13
Its definitely an option but Im leaning towards just putting all my effort and $$$ into the Flathead. I still have to price out the T5 and now thinking about it, maybe just do the flatty with the C4. The guy who sold me the flatty threw in an old (3 spd - I think, its in pieces) for free. I havent had to time to do any research on it. It is a Ford and needs the cluster gear. So thats another option Im weighing.
#15
That's what's killing me, I want to be able to drive it at highway speeds without messing with frame. As ALBUQ F1 indicated, it requires major surgery to crossmember. Anyone know of a ford tranny that will go in the F1 with overdrive and yet not require mods to frame?