1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

302/C4 vs Flathead/T5

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Old 01-03-2014, 10:39 AM
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Question 302/C4 vs Flathead/T5

1949 Ford F1...So originally I was going the 302/C4 route but I picked up flathead that looks rebuildable. Unfortunately, Im finding out how expensive it is to rebuild. Im thinking installing 302/c4 and take my time with flathead/T5 (1-2yrs). Has anyone installed 302/C4? What changes were done to frame? My concern is that I wont easily be able to eventually replace 302 with Flathead.
 
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Old 01-03-2014, 10:57 AM
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Price out a rebuild on the 302 to make a fair comparison. The shops I got quotes from don't differentiate between boring a flathead or a OHV. Same for grinding valves, assembly, decking, etc. Quality flathead parts aren't much different than quality OHV parts. With the 302 you get a lot more power, but you have the costs of frame mods, electrical mods, exhaust, on and on. Pick your poison, this isn't a cheap hobby.
 
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Old 01-03-2014, 11:05 AM
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My apologies; forgot to mention that I already have the 302/C4. I pulled it out of my 71 F100. The 302/c4 were rebuilt about 2 years ago with about 2500miles on it. My goal is to keep the F1 as intact as possible, minimal mods. I've seen some posts that 302/C4 is fairly easy install with adding aftermarket cross-members (engine & tranny). I just dont know if I will need to cut out anything out of the frame?
 
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Old 01-03-2014, 11:25 AM
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The 302/c4 combo is about the easiest drivetrain swap you'll find. It can be done without major frame mods. Personally, I wouldn't use the aftermarket crossmembers. They may not set the engine in the correct spot to take advantage of not cutting the existing crossmembers. The C4 mount will fit right at the trans crossmember, and you will need to make a corresponding pad for it to attach to, which could be either welded or bolted if you wanted to remove it later. The engine can then be set at the appropriate angle and custom side mounts can be fabbed for the engine isolators. All of this can be done without making any floor or firewall modifications.

All this said, there will be considerable expense and time afforded to make it all work, even if you have the engine and trans available. You'll need to decide on where you want to put your resources; setting up a temporary engine or rebuilding the one you really want.
 
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Old 01-03-2014, 12:03 PM
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This is great information and very valid points. I just needed that second or third opinion . I guess I will be putting up my 302/C4 up for sale and putting those funds toward the Flatty. Thank you.
 
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Old 01-03-2014, 12:31 PM
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Make sure the flatmotor is rebuildable first! There are cracks, and fatal cracks. Vat it and have it magnaflux'd or dye penetrant tested on the decks and lower sidewalls above the oil pan rail.

PS you can buy rebuilt flatheads for around $2500 if you don't want anything fancy.
 
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Old 01-03-2014, 12:41 PM
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Agreed, Im taking it to a machine shop next week. There are some well known places for flatheads in Southern California, unfortunately thats where Im getting a range of $4k-$6k to end up with a complete engine. I want to salvage and do as much as I can to get the price down and I would be very happy with $2.5K. I'm happy with the 100hp that the flatty came with. I do want the T5 so I can cruise the highways. Did you do most of the assembly on your flatty?
 
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Old 01-03-2014, 01:00 PM
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Yes, I've had it apart 3X for various reasons. They are very simple engines, you can put one together in a day once you've done it.

I've heard of these $4 - 5k rebuilds, it would be worth it to pay shipping to get away from the SoCal premium. There is a very good shop in OK, one in UT (PM user "jmadsen" on here to get particulars), one in PHX, three in NM, a couple in Denver. For a stock rebuild with overbore, new pistons, a couple of valves and guides, valve job, all new bearings, new Melling oil pump, no line-boring or decking, vatting 2X and crack-checking, I paid $2300. I supplied new adjustable lifters (I paid $100 for them), and I provided the gaskets ($60). A valve job using the stock lifters (non-adjustable) costs about $100 more, there's a lot to be said for going that way. Make sure your engine has hardened valve seats (a '49 engine should have them, but if it was ever swapped....)!
 
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Old 01-03-2014, 01:15 PM
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What about putting the T5 behind the 302 now, then just changing the engine later. You are going to spend the money on the T5 anyway. My 48 has a modified 302 with a T5 behind it, and it runs great.
 
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Old 01-03-2014, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by rswhitmore
What about putting the T5 behind the 302 now, then just changing the engine later. You are going to spend the money on the T5 anyway. My 48 has a modified 302 with a T5 behind it, and it runs great.
How did you do the clutch? Are you using a Mustang 5.0-style bellhousing? I don't know of a 302-to-stock trans adapter. At any rate, the T5 behind any engine requires major surgery on the crossmember.
 
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Old 01-03-2014, 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
Yes, I've had it apart 3X for various reasons. They are very simple engines, you can put one together in a day once you've done it.

I've heard of these $4 - 5k rebuilds, it would be worth it to pay shipping to get away from the SoCal premium. There is a very good shop in OK, one in UT (PM user "jmadsen" on here to get particulars), one in PHX, three in NM, a couple in Denver. For a stock rebuild with overbore, new pistons, a couple of valves and guides, valve job, all new bearings, new Melling oil pump, no line-boring or decking, vatting 2X and crack-checking, I paid $2300. I supplied new adjustable lifters (I paid $100 for them), and I provided the gaskets ($60). A valve job using the stock lifters (non-adjustable) costs about $100 more, there's a lot to be said for going that way. Make sure your engine has hardened valve seats (a '49 engine should have them, but if it was ever swapped....)!
PHX and NM sound reasonable, especially PHX since its about a 6 hour drive, just in case I want to go check it out. NM, well got family there, second pair of eyes if needed. Did you use the original heads, intake & carb? How much did that run to restore or did you go with newer/refurbished ones?
 
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Old 01-03-2014, 03:15 PM
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I used a stock 89 Mustang bellhousing. I have the body off of the frame right now in the body shop being painted. If you are interested in some pictures o the drivetrain, I can take them and send them to you. email me at rswhitmore@yahoo.com.
 
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Old 01-03-2014, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by rswhitmore
What about putting the T5 behind the 302 now, then just changing the engine later. You are going to spend the money on the T5 anyway. My 48 has a modified 302 with a T5 behind it, and it runs great.
Its definitely an option but Im leaning towards just putting all my effort and $$$ into the Flathead. I still have to price out the T5 and now thinking about it, maybe just do the flatty with the C4. The guy who sold me the flatty threw in an old (3 spd - I think, its in pieces) for free. I havent had to time to do any research on it. It is a Ford and needs the cluster gear. So thats another option Im weighing.
 
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Old 01-03-2014, 03:32 PM
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You really could use the overdrive of 5th gear in the T5 once you put the flathead in to keep the rpms down on the flathead at highway speeds.
 
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Old 01-03-2014, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by rswhitmore
You really could use the overdrive of 5th gear in the T5 once you put the flathead in to keep the rpms down on the flathead at highway speeds.

That's what's killing me, I want to be able to drive it at highway speeds without messing with frame. As ALBUQ F1 indicated, it requires major surgery to crossmember. Anyone know of a ford tranny that will go in the F1 with overdrive and yet not require mods to frame?
 


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