trumph, I decided to go with polished ones from eBay for $150.00 They come from Demotor Performance in City of Industry, Ca Part # PH039S Made by ProHeaders.com

 

Doug, how did your oil pan clearance work out? I may be too late, but I have the oil pan from a "96 Ford Explorer 5.0 It is a perfect fit for the welded JAG setup we have. Aluminum pan, all rear sump, one drain plug, and all kinds of room between it and the rack-n-pinion.

 

Jeff, I ended up getting about 3/4" clearance with the pan I have. My 302 is an 89, I believe, so do you think your pan would fit? Mine is kinda beat up (too much off-roading I think) so I'm VERY interested in yours. PM me with your thoughts on price.

 

Hi Doug, Sorry for the misunderstanding, I don't have one for sale. Just saying that the Explorer oil pan is a good fit with the JAG IFS. I know you are far from a salvage yard though. I'm away from home with my job this week. I will get some pics and send to you this coming weekend.

 

Thanks Doug will have a look for them. cheers

 

It's been WAY too long since I made any progress on "Storrs". Today I finally finished fabricating the steering shafts (dowels) and locating the steering column. Started out coming up from the steering box to a post that will be welded to the frame.


Next, up through a swivel that will be attached to the new floor board and yet another u-joint.

I chose a shorty Ididit column and column drop and "banjo style" steering wheel to top things off.


Now with this fabbing completed, I can take it all apart, pull the engine and fix a really dumb mistake on the engine bottom end. (forgot to put the oil pump drive shaft in before installing the oil pump! New goal (gotta have goals!) is to get it running before the 1st of the year.

 

Doug, you can just pull the distributor out to install the oil pump drive. It snaps into the end of the distributor shaft. You may want to "pre-lube" the engine before startup anyway...

Your truck is coming along nice!

 

Scott, I assembled the engine without the oil pump shaft thinking I could put it in like you do on SBC's. So, when I went to install the distributor I dropped the shaft down the hole and tried to insert the distributor, but ran into interference (the distributor wouldn't drop all the way). I am (was?) thinking that the retainer ring on the oil pump shaft is not allowing the shaft to drop deep enough to allow the distributor to fully seat. I'd love to not have to pull the engine again to get past this dilema. I guess I need to acquire a pair of longggg needle nose pliers or a magnet perhaps to lift the shaft out of the hole. Should I remove the retainer ring? Sorry, this sounds like a REALLY easy answer, but I'm more familiar with SBC's (the last one of THOSE I rebuilt was in 1969!)

 

Put the retainer ring end of the hex shaft into the distributor. That allows you to drop it in without losing the shaft into the oilpan. The trick is to get the hex on the shaft lined up with the hex in the pump. You may have to "clock" the pump with a long screwdriver or something. It's a real pain. The dist won't fully seat until everything lines up.

 

looking good doug

 

Do you have any plans on putting another support on the steering column besides just the column drop?

 

gerrymoe, yes I'll be bringing down a support from where I bolt the brake pedal assembly/master cyl to the firewall. That will stiffen the bottom end of the column,

 

So moving on to thinking about power steering for Storrs. This is the power steering unit that came with the used 302 FE I purchased. The arrow indicates that the low pressure return nipple is broken. I determined today that there is no way to adjust the pressure on these style of pumps? So I'm wondering what people are using for P/S pumps, especially those that are using the Jag IFS. Looking for any ideas on a pump to use that can be adjusted to find that proper pressure. TIA

 

jag pump is a saginaw pump, commonly used on GM as well. I am running saginaw pumps.
Pressure control is normally done with a spring on the pressure side fitting of the pump, the fitting is removable and the spring is behind the valve that is behind the fitting. You can also swap these fittings to change the pressure line thread style from double flare to 1981 up GM oring style, which is what my jag PS pressure hose has on the pump end. I hooked up my 1986 jag PS pressure hose to the 1995 GM pump with no changes or adapters needed.

 

Doug I use a Saginaw pump for a GM. That is what Jag used IIRC. Jag racks use the same pressures as GM used in the 80's. You can use either the Banjo shaped reservoir or the "canned ham" reservoir. I run a sbc so no issue with available pump mounting brackets. I am not sure what you can find for a sbf. I would not be surprised if you have to fabricate one.


EDIT: Dave beat me to the response.