Hey Doug, I haven't gotten all the way through your thread yet, so I'm not sure if you are going with the stock location for the MC or firewall. If it's the firewall I can't help you, but maybe bumping this up will get someone else's attention that can.

 

OOPS, sorry, I should have been more specific in that I'm going with a firewall mount. I bought a nice chrome JustRight MC/booster combo w/prop valve.

 

Sure would like to see a pic of the mc and install

 

A month and a half since my last update and lots has been going on. I finished the patch panel on the cab and tonight my son and I set it on the frame:

It's really easy using the engine hoist. I just put a folded up old blanket on top of a piece of 3/4' plywood (about 18" square) and balanced this all on the very end of the hoist arm (extended to the 500lb position.) Jacked it into the air and rolled the cab over the frame and dropped it down nice and easy. No sweat (except that it is 98 degrees)

Also received all the fuel line components yesterday as well as the bed wear strips (a LONG ways away from needing them, but I had a few $$ burning the proverbial hole) Wednesday is planned for the day to set the engine/trans in the frame and locate the motor mounts and new transmission mount location (remember, putting in a 302/C6 combo) More to come later!!

 

Today managed to get the engine and trans stuffed in between the frame members. The first pic indicates a 6 degree down angle and a little higher than the final position. I'm shooting for 3-4 degrees down angle. I can't slide it back any further (thus allowing it to drop) at the moment as the transmission is hitting the firewall.
I believe I have about 3" left to slide the engine back, to hopefully create some clearance for the oil pan and the Jag rack and pinion.
Here's the conflict at the R&P:
I don't think I'll have to remove much of the top of the stock tunnel opening to allow the engine/trans combo to slide back those 3 inches.
I'm doing this install by myself, so I'm looking for input from you lurkers out there as to whether or not I'm doing this correctly. This combo came out of an old (89?) F150, so I think I'll look for a Bronco water pump to throw on, just to provide a bit more engine/radiator clearance. At this time I plan to use an electric fan. Any thoughts anyone?? I REALLY appreciate any input. Thanks!

 

Hey Doug,
A shorty water pump will buy you some space - approx. 1.5 in. up front.
It's really nice to have that extra space. I'm fully versed on electric fans - the more powerful puller
ones require 5 inches of space behind the radiator. The slimmest after market fans will need 3 inches.
I really like the Mark VIII style fan we just recently bought from Salvage. It came from a V8 Thunderbird -
2 speed - moves a lot of air. You will need a really solid upgraded alternator to go with the powerful electric fans.

Not sure what engine/trans combo. you have there. We went with a 351W/AOD - had to do some adjusting to the trans. cover area to get it to fit.

Looking good over there in Montana!

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

Looks like a whole lot more than 6 degrees there to me! LT1 in my caddy is at 5 degrees and doesnt look anything like that.



You are on the rigth track to cut the tunnel to get the front of the engine way down and raise the rear of the trans up. You really want that carb base on the intake level at ride height with a carbed engine, which is usually with the tail shaft 3 degrees down.

 

Ben, thanks for the info on the fans. I'm attempting a 302/C6 setup, carbureted. About what year Tbird did your fan come out of? Dave, I'm certainly not opposed to notching the firewall to accomplish what I need to. I'm hoping to keep the original under dash Ford heater, so I hope I can accomplish the engine install without sacrificing that. The angle finder up on the intake manifold is reading 6 degrees, but it sure does look like a serious angle. Tomorrow I'll figure out the best way to cut the fire wall (suggestions, anyone?) to allow me to get the pump sump behind the R&P.

 

Hey Doug,
Our Fan came from a '95-'96 Tbird that I bought off of Ebay with a
Volvo 2 speed Fan Relay & a BMW 176-190 degree Temp. Switch. It's a nice set up that fits our Radiator. Here's a link to similar being sold on Ebay..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/18-Thunderbird-Electric-Fan-Volvo-Controller-Temp-Switch-Mark-Viii-Mustang/131543254038?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D31729%26meid%3D32dd3e400e4c4d8497839c3fd9d31ac4%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D141683838394
Other nice salvage fans are Taurus & Mark VIII but they are thicker & wider.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

Just start cutting the firewall a little at a time until you get where you need to be. Draw the lines with a marker and cut away, I use a plasma cutter but a grinder with a cutoff wheel works fine.
Truck #1 I had to cut the tunnel at the top this much.

 

Doug,
I have not been down the same road with a 302/C-6 since my setup is a sbc/700r4. Is the oil pan the sbf "rear sump " oil pan or is there a sbf pan that moves the pump suction/sump further back (i.e. Mustang Fox body oil pan). Is the c6 creating some of the fitment issues? It is a lot of transmission for your engine/truck. Who else has done the Jag/sbf?


Edit: What would doing an engine offset to the passenger side do for you? I did not do that with the sbc but it would have helped with exhaust manifold/header clearance/selection. I would suggest that you do not finalize engine location without a chosen exhaust manifold. I suspect that the common 302 log type manifold will be a good fit, however to use it I suspect that you will need to get the engine a bit lower. It looks like the major issue is the pan sump is directly over the jag rack.

 

Thanks everyone for the feedback/ideas! I will do some research and see if I can find an oil pan that would bring that sump a bit further back. The trans came with the engine ($100 for both) so I figured I'd use it if it will work. On a related matter, I was thinking along the lines of a tail piece shifter set up. I have to run to town for Argon this morning, so I'll try to find a cut off wheel for my 4" grinder ( I live in a town of 700, 50 miles from a city of any size). If not available, the die grinder will do the job, though slower. I have a set of Ford headers off a Lincoln sbf (I think) that a friend has given me to try out. I'll bolt them on and see what my steering column interference is like (cross fingers).

 

My engine is out of a e250 so same oil pan I have the aod I have about 1" around the rack ( jag) I'm about 3/8" off center to the passenger side, stock exhaust man, and no cutting on fire wall got 4 deg down on my old angle finder



About 3/4" to fire wall

 

Forgot to say I may have to grind a little off the lt side exhaust for jag steering extension to clear so you may try a little more off set of the engine to the rt side
Unless you have headers

 

Also Doug dont measure drive line angle from the carb pad, it has about 3 degrees milled into it..so reading 6 degrees there is actually a 9 degree or so drive line angle. Try to get the carb pad to zero, then if you measure at your crank balancer or tail shaft you should see the 3 degrees down angle.