Yeah, you should be able to pick one up at any parts store, just like the 3223 starter.

I try to stay away from header wrap.
The pipes just disintegrate even if it does help to keep the heat in the exhaust.
Reflective ceramic coatings like JetHot are the way to go IMO.

 

do i just tell them lester 3223 and they can cross reference it at the parts house?

Yea I've herd wrap rusts them out (after i did it) but I've never herd of ceramic coatings that insulate. everyone who does ceramic coatings will have something like jet hot?

 

Lester numbers are an industry identifier for a specific application or configuration.

I'm not really sure if everyone who does ceramic coatings has one that is metallic.
All ceramic coatings are insulative (to some extent) but not all are reflective as well.

 

Thanks for all the help ardwrkntrk!

 

Let us know how that new starter works out.

 

Sorry its been a while i pulled my engine and rebuilt it. I've had the 3223 starter on for about a week now and that starter works great! I recommend anyone changing starters go ahead and upgrade.

 

Rep's for the follow up!

Glad to hear it's working well for you.

 

I justrecently replaced my old starter with this smaller gear reduction starter from db electrical. I took the original starter wire and moved it to the battery side of the solinoid and the other end to the large post on top. (the one that doesnt have a wire going into the starter motor) and ran a 10ga wire from the starter side of the solinoid to the small post on the starter. I turn the key and all i got where a few clicks and a couple half turns of the engine. Note* to change this starter i had to remove the carburetor and alternator to get to the exhaust/intake manifolds to get to the starter. while i was at it i decided to clear some room and removed the defunct A/C system. while undertaking this small task i left my door open for a night and drained the battery. since puting everyting back toether its been charging. but in the mean time i tried jumping it to test it out. and like i said i can only get a few clicks from the starter and occasionally some half cranks of the engine. Voltage** im geting good voltage at battery. but i am also geting voltage from the small wire going to the starter to ground w out the ignition being engaged. is this normal? also while looking at the starter a second time the frame shocked me. is this normal? any pointers or places to look would be much appreciated.

 

*("but i am also geting voltage from the small wire going to the starter to ground w out the ignition being engaged.")

Correction to this.. I am getting 12.5 volts between the two solinoid posts without turning the key.. but when i take the small wire off the starter post on the solinoid i do not get voltage between the two. Is THIS normal? im thinking somting in the starter got fried and im geting this continuity?

 

Which two solenoid posts?
The solenoid is the switch.
If you are doing a voltage check, rather than continuity you will see voltage but the meter won't pass enough current to engage the solenoid and spin the starter.

Be sure your battery is fully charged (not just a surface charge)
A low battery will cause too much amperage to flow in the solenoid and often "welds" the contacts.

Read the test sheet that came with your starter.
Mine needs 45A to pull the solenoid and 13A to hold.
There is no way your meter is going to pass that much current.

 

So I got the battery fully charged but am still only getting clicks from the starter




here are the two posts i was referring to. left battery terminal. right starter terminal. and the middle one comes from the ignition switch.correct?
im getting no continuity between the two large posts on the solinoid its reading infinity one way, and negitive 122.2 the when i switch the leads around. good.




and heres where i hooked up those wires to the starter.
i get no continuity between the battery side of solinoid wire and the smaller starter side wire. I do have continuity between the small wire and the other large post on the starter. this is all good right?

could it be a bad ground? I relocated it from the old starter to the frame. I used a file in and around the hole i bolted the neg- batery terminal to and used some dialectic grease.





heres the spec sheet it came with i guess i need to check how much currents going to it? should be 42 amps?

 

Your sheet says 40.954A to pull and 11.647 to hold.
The trigger wire really should be isolated from both the battery and the starter.
That's how a solenoid should be.

You might want to bent the eyelets of both your starter cable and trigger wire 90°, they are less likely to chafe that way.

If you moved your battery ground to the frame, what kind of cable do you have connecting the block to that ground point?
It's got to be big enough to carry 450A, given that your test sheet shows 438.
The motor mounts are rubber and the throttle cable can only pass so much current before it glows hot like a lightbulb.

 

hmm..there is no wire going from the frame to the block..could this be my problem? i used the wire from the old starter for my battery to ground on the frame...not connected to the block at all. should i just move the battery ground from the frame to the block somewhere?

 

... or buy a cheap cable and go from starter mounting bolt to the cable now bolted to your frame.

I'm willing to bet this is your problem.

 

doh! thats what it was, thanks for imparting some knowledge. the starters connected to the engine but the engine is isolated by the rubber mounts and therefore neither the engine or starter was grounded. or grounded enough to get that current flowing. I used an old battery cable and bolted it to the block from the spot on the frame. started right up. you the man, jim dog!