White Lightnin' Build thread (88 F150 4x4)
#211
The gains in torque of a 302 from adding parts is marginal. But the losses can be great. Heads too big for a needed air flow slow the air down. Think of it like this blow through a straw the air comes out fast. Now blow through a garden hose air moves fast at first but quickly slacks off because your lungs don't have the capacity to keep the air moving at that speed. So the only may to move air is to take more breaths (rmps).
#214
#216
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
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Got all the AC hooked up, radiator painted, upper intake on, egr tube installed, all wiring hooked up, alternator installed, new pcv valve installed, ignition coil and TAB and TAD solenoids installed, 4 plus the coil spark plug wires installed, and the new thermostat 195 installed.
Would have been able to finish but got called into work.
While at work had dad pick me up a new lower radiator hose and vacuum line caps.
List to finish:
transmission filter
speedometer gear
radiator installed
hoses installed (got the heater core part done)
and maybe a few more things.
Trav
Would have been able to finish but got called into work.
While at work had dad pick me up a new lower radiator hose and vacuum line caps.
List to finish:
transmission filter
speedometer gear
radiator installed
hoses installed (got the heater core part done)
and maybe a few more things.
Trav
#217
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
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Installed everything but the filter and speedometer gear and broke her in yesterday!
A few problems though:
Needs correct front fuel pump and sending unit (my mistake)
Not showing oil pressure but must have oil pressure.
Front timing cover seal is leaking only when vehicle is running.
lifters or timing chain are a ticking a little.
Temp gauge says it is running normal but seems a little hot to me granted I never keep a truck that high of RPM.
Once I fix these issues I will be able to drive her.
Plan is get an aftermarket oil pressure gauge (Have) and maybe water temp (have) and install it.
Get a new sending unit and pump (correct one)
New timing cover seal
and do the transmission parts.
At first couldn't get her to start figure out it was a dumb move on my part the line off the filter wasn't on. Fixed that and dad cranked her a bit then I pushed him out of the way and she started right up!
Trav
A few problems though:
Needs correct front fuel pump and sending unit (my mistake)
Not showing oil pressure but must have oil pressure.
Front timing cover seal is leaking only when vehicle is running.
lifters or timing chain are a ticking a little.
Temp gauge says it is running normal but seems a little hot to me granted I never keep a truck that high of RPM.
Once I fix these issues I will be able to drive her.
Plan is get an aftermarket oil pressure gauge (Have) and maybe water temp (have) and install it.
Get a new sending unit and pump (correct one)
New timing cover seal
and do the transmission parts.
At first couldn't get her to start figure out it was a dumb move on my part the line off the filter wasn't on. Fixed that and dad cranked her a bit then I pushed him out of the way and she started right up!
Trav
#220
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
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Thanks guys it took me forever to get the time but I finally got something out of it. Truck sounds a little more aggressive but I found a broken spot weld on the muffler so I am thinking I am going to save up for a single into dual Flowmaster 44 series muffler. Will later sound proof the cab so it doesn't sound so droney.
Ok so here is the thing I need to install an aftermarket mechanical oil pressure gauge for backup of the electronic oil pressure gauge in the cluster (which I got the new sending unit for). Question is where can I install it with the aftermarket bracket that I won't be drilling into the dash but I still can see it?
I was thinking in the custom middle console but I am scared I might kick it.
I can't think of anything else as I don't want to screw up a perfect dash.
Already got a tee to put both the stock sender on and the pipe for the mechanical oil pressure gauge.
Monday I am off hopefully I will get the speedometer gear in.
Won't be able to order the other parts till end of the month.
Already got everybody at work plus some of the guys at the auto parts stores asking when I am going to be bringing her in. LOL
Trav
Ok so here is the thing I need to install an aftermarket mechanical oil pressure gauge for backup of the electronic oil pressure gauge in the cluster (which I got the new sending unit for). Question is where can I install it with the aftermarket bracket that I won't be drilling into the dash but I still can see it?
I was thinking in the custom middle console but I am scared I might kick it.
I can't think of anything else as I don't want to screw up a perfect dash.
Already got a tee to put both the stock sender on and the pipe for the mechanical oil pressure gauge.
Monday I am off hopefully I will get the speedometer gear in.
Won't be able to order the other parts till end of the month.
Already got everybody at work plus some of the guys at the auto parts stores asking when I am going to be bringing her in. LOL
Trav
#221
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
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Ok so some updates on everything that has been going on.
Installed a gauge in the bottom right hand side of the dash where the OD button on an E4OD would be. I did it that way because right now it is the only spot I could find plus that piece already has a hole in it. I will leave it like that till I can afford a a-pillar gauge set up with trans temp, oil pressure, and water temp.
I still have to hook up the light but I need to know which wire to tap onto with the headlight switch? I want it to come on with the running lights.
Fired the truck up after putting in a new front seal no more leaks but quickly shut if off as only 3-5psi of oil.
So after doing some research and looking through my build pictures I came to the conclusion I left the galley plugs behind the timing chain and under the intake out. So now I have to pull the intake and timing cover off to put the galley plugs. I already have the galley plugs from my parts 302 but I need to get some gaskets which I will be getting this Friday along with ordering a fuel pump and sending unit for the front tank. Lukily I am off from work next week 3 days so I can start getting something done.
I am going crazy driving the 5.3L that has been acting weird every morning but is fine in the after noon.
Trav
Installed a gauge in the bottom right hand side of the dash where the OD button on an E4OD would be. I did it that way because right now it is the only spot I could find plus that piece already has a hole in it. I will leave it like that till I can afford a a-pillar gauge set up with trans temp, oil pressure, and water temp.
I still have to hook up the light but I need to know which wire to tap onto with the headlight switch? I want it to come on with the running lights.
Fired the truck up after putting in a new front seal no more leaks but quickly shut if off as only 3-5psi of oil.
So after doing some research and looking through my build pictures I came to the conclusion I left the galley plugs behind the timing chain and under the intake out. So now I have to pull the intake and timing cover off to put the galley plugs. I already have the galley plugs from my parts 302 but I need to get some gaskets which I will be getting this Friday along with ordering a fuel pump and sending unit for the front tank. Lukily I am off from work next week 3 days so I can start getting something done.
I am going crazy driving the 5.3L that has been acting weird every morning but is fine in the after noon.
Trav
#222
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
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Just spent half my paycheck today on truck parts. New intake and timing cover gaskets and a brand new fuel pump. Fuel pump is on its way. Tomorrow I start on hopefully getting oil pressure. If I get oil pressure tomorrow then going to test drive her then park her and will pick up trans fluid sunday and Monday will replace trans filter and speedometer gear.
Hopefully everything will go as planned going crazy not being able to drive my baby.
Also made another key for dad in case I loose mine. For some reason his original key doesn't work anymore???
Trav
Hopefully everything will go as planned going crazy not being able to drive my baby.
Also made another key for dad in case I loose mine. For some reason his original key doesn't work anymore???
Trav
#223
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Got oil pressure now!!!!
However my oil pan gasket is leaking like a sive. Damn it. Got to drop the pan to fix that. I am pretty sure when I installed the timing cover the gasket part broke and fell in.
It overall is running great but couldn't take it for a test drive because of the gasket issue. Tomorrow I got work so can't do to much.
Did install a brand new thermostat 195* stainless steel.
Dash gauge shows low oil pressure but mechanical gauge shows 50psi at oil.
Trav
However my oil pan gasket is leaking like a sive. Damn it. Got to drop the pan to fix that. I am pretty sure when I installed the timing cover the gasket part broke and fell in.
It overall is running great but couldn't take it for a test drive because of the gasket issue. Tomorrow I got work so can't do to much.
Did install a brand new thermostat 195* stainless steel.
Dash gauge shows low oil pressure but mechanical gauge shows 50psi at oil.
Trav
#225
Join Date: Mar 2011
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Ya that is one piece of good news.
Hopefully I will be able to drop the pan enough to fix the issue otherwise I have to pull the whole engine because of the custom y-pipe right in the way.
Also not sure why yet but I am idling at between 850 and 950 which is 100-200rpm to high for stock. Not sure if the cam is doing this, my idle air control valve is going, or maybe the fuel pump.
Had to replace a fuel line also because while pulling the lower intake I ripped it. Luckily I had an extra of that one. Plus had to replace a plug wire as it had melted on the manifold. Turns out that was why it was running rough. Then last had to replace the Air temp sensor on the manifold as I broke it. The good news is I always have lots of extra parts being I have so many trucks.
Trav
Hopefully I will be able to drop the pan enough to fix the issue otherwise I have to pull the whole engine because of the custom y-pipe right in the way.
Also not sure why yet but I am idling at between 850 and 950 which is 100-200rpm to high for stock. Not sure if the cam is doing this, my idle air control valve is going, or maybe the fuel pump.
Had to replace a fuel line also because while pulling the lower intake I ripped it. Luckily I had an extra of that one. Plus had to replace a plug wire as it had melted on the manifold. Turns out that was why it was running rough. Then last had to replace the Air temp sensor on the manifold as I broke it. The good news is I always have lots of extra parts being I have so many trucks.
Trav