Ya that's exactly why I am leaning towards the sheriff truck. I was going to do new oil pump gaskets, water pump and chain set anyways plus on my old engine I have brand new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition coil, and probably more.
I know my buddies engine has been sitting outside for a while which worries me but it is already pulled.
Trav

 

Wow, you've had some bad luck with the truck Trav. If it were me, I'd avoid that engine that's been sitting outside.

Have you considered a 351 swap?

 

I did right away after the engine went and I sat waiting for my dad to go get the 02 for half an hour. But after thinking about it I decided that I just don't really want that and here is my reasons:
First off I checked with multiple places and craigslist and every 351 is $200-$400 more and those don't include some of these parts that are on these two (like intake manifold and such). No idea why in my area that is.
Secondly I really love the 302 the first truck I ever drove was my dad's 86 F150 302 and I loved it. No doubt I love the 351 (our 89 F250 has one and we use to have a 351 90 Ford E-150) but I figure that I don't need a truck with tons of power like that (yes the roller cam 302 bronco engine has more power and I later down the road will be modifying it for more power) but I personally have a graphing chart for trucks of this era:
F150 302
F250 351
F350 460
F450+ diesel.
That is just my personal thoughts on it. I really am leaning towards the roller cam engine. So here are my new thoughts:
Get the roller cam engine once I have the money, if it sells by the time I get the money (hopefully next month or so) I will get the engine my buddy has which isn't going anywhere he has to many projects.
Keep the MAF stuff on hand till I can find a mustang computer cheap or plain out find one that will work. (If I don't have these parts before dropping in the engine will stay SD till I can find till I can)
Rebuild with the parts Goinboarding says also put new rad hoses and belts on.
Maybe some headers if I have the money.
New trans filter (cheap and worth it in my opinion)
possibly new module valve for trans.
Fix a few other small things and get her back on the road asap (hoping sometime in summer or by next year.)
Swap wiper switch for intermediate wipers switch
Hook up CB (have to get another original ford Antenna)
Get a radio and fix all that stuff up (not going to use brothers radio)
Flush all fluids (before getting on the road)
Speedometer gear drive (before getting on the road)
All this plus most of what I had originally figured to do over time.


Got one question though when my truck was idling I noticed that it sounded like a diesel do you think that was because of the engine going or because of the exhaust?
Its not that I hate the noise but like the pissed off hot rod noise more from the thrush glass pack.
Trav

 

I cant even begin to understand why you like the 302... Seriously one of the worst motors ford has made. Hell the 4.9 beats it in reliability, mileage, and torque.

 

I have to agree with this ^^^

The 300 is a much better truck engine. It's a good low revving engine unlike the 302. Fuel economy is significantly better. The 300 in general is probably longer lasting engine too.

Then again, everyone has their own preferences and reasoning. Trav seems pretty set on a 302

 

Quick update been a bit busy checking out engines:
The 94 bronco engine I wouldn't pay a dime for it was toast not worth anything.
Looked around the yard a bit at the scrap yard and checked out this:
89 or so F250 351W not sure if it runs or not but defiantly needs rebuilt has oil in it but some metal in it they want $200. Don't know what all is needed for a 351W swap and how much it would be to rebuild it.


Here is what I have been thinking:
Going to check out my engine more thorough and see if any cracks or anything is in the block. If there is then will price out a brand new engine vs the 351 above rebuilt. Which ever one is cheaper I will go that route. If my engine is good and I can rebuild it will compare the price vs all three. When I look through it who knows maybe there won't be that much wrong I don't know yet I haven't looked yet.

So quick questions is there a thread for a 302 to 351 swap or a list of parts I need?
How much would rebuilding a 351 (the cheapest yet best) be?
How about 302?
Both my 302 or the 351 will probably need machine work which I am going to price out around here once I figure out where some are and I get the chance.

Also I am more set on a 302 because this was the original engine and I have always had luck with them and love them. They have plenty of power for me.
Trav

 

Ok so I think after doing research I am going to go with the 351W if all goes as planned. So what I found out so far is this:
I need computer and engine to do the swap (out of a 87-91 ford $200 with computer.)

What I am wanting so I am positive this lasts:
rebuild it which I found kits from $100+ this one looks the cheapest yet best though:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-351-W-5-8-87-93-Truck-Engine-Rebuild-Kit-P-E150-/300832368679?_trksid=p2054897.l4275
Also found this one but not sure if it will work:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/87-91-Ford-Car-351W-5-8L-V8-Windsor-H-O-Master-Engine-Rebuild-Kit-/300696021864?_trksid=p2054897.l4275
Which one would y'all go with? I want something cheap yet good. If none of these then what would you go with can't be more then $400 and must have oil pump, cam, and such included. My dad thinks I should go with these special rings (I forgot the name now) but he says they are cheap yet great he has used them multiple times so may do that too.
Went to O'riellys yesterday 351 headers are $127 plus tax powder coated black. Figured that's pretty good so probably going to go there.

Machine work locally is $200-$400 depending on everything but either way cam is installed by them.
Still have to price heads and find a good set (want new heads so I know for sure they aren't warped).
The heads I am looking at so far (which I need to talk to my dad about before going with) are these think this is a decent price but not sure looks like heads are the most expensive part of the build:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/289-302-347-351W-SMALL-BLOCK-FORD-ALUMINUM-CYLINDER-HEADS-SBF-2-02-INTAKE-185CC-/350900647445?_trksid=p2054897.l4275Water pump need to price figuring $30 or so for that at O'rielly or Autozone.
Got plugs, cap, wires, rotor, air filter, and TFI module from my 302 brand new so will use those. For right now staying SD instead of going MAF as that is more then I can afford right now.

Along with this going to get a trans filter kit for my C6 (about $30+) along with maybe a new modulator valve just to be sure. If it still don't shift going to have to rebuild. I personally believe it will be fine after this since I got the truck up to 2nd before probably just my fault not checking it before driving it.
Do you all think I should run synthetic oil once I rebuild the engine?
Got some more things to look up so will be updating and once we start actually buying parts will let you know.
Trav

 

As far as a 351 swap goes, you can use your 302 computer, and engine harness. If you do decide to swap your computer to one from a 351 truck, keep in mind it has to be from a 351 truck with a C6 trans.

Those engine kits, while they include a lot of stuff, don't appear to be from quality manufacturers. If you're dead set on rebuilding the 351 before you install it, take a look at Summit and Jegs and see what they have for kits.

If it were me doing this, I'd grab the 351, throw it on an engine stand, and start inspecting things. Do a leakdown test to see if the rings or valves are even an issue on your replacement engine. If the leakdown test shows no issues, I'd leave the pistons, rings, and heads alone.

Pull the oil pan, pull a couple of rod caps and main caps, and see how the bearings look. At most, replace rods and mains, along with the oil pump, and re-seal the oil pan.

Those aluminum heads are nice, but again don't appear to be from a well known manufacturer. The 60cc combustion chamber is going to put your compression ratio a little on the high side as well, almost at the limits of pump gas as far as octane requirements. I'd pass on those. If you're dead set on changing the heads, look for a set of stock Ford GT40 heads, preferably used. Most machine shops should be able to check the heads, and machine the surface flat if necessary, for under $150. Used heads from a salvage yard around here are $150 for the pair, so for $300 you've got a pretty good upgrade.

Keep the stock cam, to keep the SD system happy.

GT40 heads, stock cam, long tube headers, and a healthy 351 should keep you pretty happy for a long time.

 

I thought because of mine being a 88 the computers are different but the harness is the same?
Acording to the guy at O'riellys I need the computer but it doesn't matter the trans because in 88 my C6 wasn't computer controlled.
I need to be sure because the truck with the engine has a M5OD trans bolted to it and is 2wd. I defiantly don't want to change my trans from the C6 unless I absolutely have to and if I do I will be going Zf-5. But again I prefer my C6 over anything always loved the C6 transmission.
Also will a 87-91 Ford pickup have the GT40 heads you speak of?
I want to rebuild it so it lasts till I can do everything I want when I have the money.

Will look at summit.
My dad really wants me to go with chromoly rings (that is what I was trying to remember.)
These below have chromoly rings and are close to what we are willing to pay. They also have an oil pump included but no camshaft. Do you think the stock cam will be fine to use since I will have to bore the engine to work?
Here is what I found at summit by sealed power but not sure if it will fit kinda need help on that part:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fe...-000/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fe...-011/overview/

This one is more then I wanted to pay but if it works then I will talk to my dad about it:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fe...-410/overview/

Is there anything else I should consider?
My biggest worry is getting this engine and the heads be warped to the point that the machine shop can't use it. Before I pull the engine is there a way I can check to make sure the heads aren't warped or warped to bad?
The reason I don't want to go MAF right now is I don't want to spend forever trying to find a compatible computer or spend that much right now. If this truck was MAF already then I would do it in a heart beat.
Salvage yards up here charge a fortune for anything so heads would probably be a lot more.
Trav

 

You shouldn't need the computer if the engine is from the same era truck. If they're willing to include the computer, though, you may as well get it. The C6 was never computer controlled, and with a manual trans the computer doesn't care what the trans is doing, so technically speaking, either computer should work. The only time you'd run into issues is using an E4OD computer with your C6.

GT40 heads came on 96-97 Explorers with the 5.0, and Mustang Cobras with the 5.0. The only thing you'll need to do to make them fit the 5.8 is drill the head bolt holes out for a 1/2" head bolt.

Unless the engine has been severely overheated, the heads that come with the engine should be fine. Same deal with the GT40 heads if you decide to go with those. They're both cast iron, and it takes quite a bit of overheating/head gasket failure to warp them.

As far as rings, technology has changed a lot since my last motor build that went that deep. Chromoly rings, to the best of my knowledge, take a lot of time to seat (make a good seal against the cylinder bore).

Since you're going to have machine work done anyway, I think it'd be best to talk to your machine shop about what type of rebuild kit to buy. They may even be able to get a better price too.

Have you looked into a crate engine? With machine work on an old block, rebuild kit, etc it seems that you'd be close to the price of a crate motor.

 

$900+ for a long block without the timing chain, water pump, intake and more.

Went outside to check out my truck a bit. I haven't touched her since breaking down but I think something else is wrong then the engine.
First off: checked the engine oil still where it is suppose to be and has a little charcoal in it which it has always has.
Secondly pulled trans dipstick: burn on it all the way up and down and supposly (I didn't know this till now the truck wouldn't shift into 3rd gear. It would shift to second but not third. So going to check a few more things out before I go any farther on this engine research. It may be a cheap and fast fix which I am looking into things to check to see what is wrong. Thanks for all the help so far guys I guess I jumped the gun a bit.
Trav

 

Ok today got the chance to really look the truck over well. Rod defiantly got thrown straight threw the oil pan 1/2in hole about 1/2in below the block on the left side. So going to start figuring out what to do. Also might rebuild trans while I am in there don't want to deal with it going out.
Trav

 

Pic update time:
tape off the tailgate letters:

Cleaned up:

80-86 chrome window handles (working on getting the door handles:

inside cleaned up:

Cleaned up back part:

First load it has pulled in 6 1/2 years a load of tires:


What it was hauling when it threw a rod (this pic is on the side of the road after getting a flat and doing some flexing so before throwing the rod:



me and my truck (just got a hair cut so much shorter hair now)

The 02 F250 pulling me home:

Out front of the house:

The snow we got last week:

The hole the rod left in the oil pan:

 

I like the 302, just not in a truck.
I love the 300.

But I agree to a 351 swap. I am ditching the 302 in my 89 for a 351 eventually.


Either way personal preferences.




Trav, you look like John Lennon bro. Don't take it as I am talking **** because I am not LOL

 

I have always loved the 302 in a truck always treated me well and had tons of power for me still don't see why so many people hate it. The 300 though never really cared for a 6 cyl if I wanted some that is a daily driver and a beater truck then ya (I know our B2 is a 6 cyl but I still hate that part) but still don't care for it.
Decided I am going to do a bit of research to find out how much it will be to rebuild the 302 and get a new pan if possible since it is the original engine and I really want to keep the drivetrain as stock as possible (minus a small lift and bigger tires). Besides if I ever decide to sell (which I probably won't) for some reason a 302 holds its value a lot better then any other engine.
Weird that I know who he is. LOL First time I have been told that though. I have since clean shaven and cut my hair short as I hated the long hair (always got in my way).
Trav