Thanks! And thanks foe letting me know about the recall, so i can take it to the ford dealer and they will fix it no questions asked and nothing out of my pocket?

 

Correct, but you will probably be better off to call ahead, give them the VIN and make an appointment. They should have the part in stock but this way you don't have any surprises when you get there. It's possible too that it may have been performed already, but there should be a fusible link on the switch on the end of the brake master cylinder and it generally has a big Ford blue tag on it. I don't see that in your pictures, so I'm assuming it hasn't been done.

 

It should look something like this:


And it is to avoid looking something like this:


Haha, that should get you motivated!! If you're worried about it, just unplug the wiring from that switch and you're good to go (without the cruise) until you get to the stealership.

 

I just checked and its not on there, i will do that this week, i can unplug that harness next to the tag and that will stop the problem until i get to the ford place?

 

Hah, kinda funny too since your username is 7.3fire, lol.

 

Lol....but i can unplug that harness and that will save me till i get to the dealership right.

 

Yes. You won't be able to use the cruise and it may set the brake light on the dash, but there is no risk of fire with that unplugged. In all actuality the risk is pretty remote anyway unless the switch is leaking fluid, but if you're like me you don't want to take ANY chance with that.

 

Haha i sure dont! Im going to buy a new downpipe from diamond. It seems that the stock downpipe and muffler unbolts and the new one is a two peice and bolts right on, it looks like it will fit perfectly because right after the bolt is my d-celerator unit. Do you know anything about that?

 

Nope. Not a thing. I am guessing it's an exhaust brake. Just a valve that more or less closes off the exhaust and slows the truck. Bear in mind that you will have to "adjust" the pinch weld in the firewall to get the down pipe in.

 

Yeah the dcellerator is a an exhaustbreak, which is funny because the guy also in stalled a pac break..i guess he wanted to make sure the truck came to a complete stop haha, do you know if a 4in down pipe will fit on the turbo no problem?

 

You don't want a 4" down pipe, trust me....


Substantial changes to the firewall have to be made to fit a 4" DP. You will have a hard enough time getting a 3" in there and there are plenty of 500-600 horsepower truck using the 3" downpipe. 4" isn't necessary. Just to clear the 3" you will have to cut the pinch weld in several places, then bend it back flat against the firewall. To clear a 4" you really ahve to get aggressive and butcher it up bad (think cutting out sections and building a new tunneled out section of firewall). It's a big project that will require either having the engine out of removing the dash. 3" is doable and is all you'll ever need.

And for the decellerator and PAC brake, keep in mind you could always remove them and sell them for some "build money" if you don't intend to tow or haul heavy.

 

Ok good,someone said to get 4in, but a 3in will be just fine, and with it straight piped it will give me great sound. Im going to order the diamond 3in aluminum dp, and the riffraff 6637 kit for my first mods. And haha this truck has so much stuff im still trying to figure them all out. It has a built tranny with a gear vendors, so looked it up to see what its all about, it was a $3000 system!!!

 

If the transmission was built right I bet it cost more than that by itself. A $3,000 tarnsmission for a PSD is just a mild build. The really good ones are $5-6k. Hence the popularity of the 5 speed swap! lol.

 

I mean the gear vendors system alone was 3k.

 

Just to clarify, after the 3" DP clears the firewall it turns into a 4" the rest of the way back. I also thought about buying one of those gear vendors.