Gonna go through with a test light tonight and see where the problem is.

Hopefully its something simple like a cracked wire under the bed where I can just splice in a new piece and call it a day

How would I check these specifically?

 

Find where it plugs into the main harness and test for voltage output. Look for any Green corrosion needs to be cleaned a brass brush then lube up with some dielectric grease before plugging it back together. By doing this will never happen again..
Orich

 

Back in business! The wiring problem has been fixed! It turns out that one of the connections in the back by the bulb was bad. I cleaned them all up yesterday and they still didn't work, so I just left everything there disassembled. Come out this afternoon and slap it all together, and lo and behold, houston we have turn signals!

I'm so excited that she is legal again! Well, save for registration and insurance, but that isnt a priority right now

Next up comes the parts haul I scored the other day. I need to get out to the shop and take a couple pictures, but I'm stoked about it.

 

Parts haul!!

I had an ad out on Craigslist for parts, and a guy called about headers. I went to pick them up and wound up taking home a fresh set of heads too! The old man hooked it up with a distributor and and friend of mine gave me a 600 Holley he had sitting around that he didn't want. It looks like things are coming together, I hope to be done with her sometime in June





390 2wd headers are ridiculously hard to find





Fresh rebuild D2 heads from a local shop, looks like they did some damn good work (hardened seats too!) and put fresh hardware in them.





Needs a little wire brushing but they're cherry besides that





The heads came with a full set of Fel Pro top end gaskets and some copper header and collector gaskets too. Never used the copper ones before, are they worth a damn?





Dual point Mallory my old man had in the trunk of the Fairlane he gave to me. Looks like I found my distributor.

 

Got real sick and tired of not having gauges, so I pulled the cluster out to check out the board and pull the ICVR, and I found some interesting things





45 years of filth built up





The board doesn't look all beat up or ruined though...?





Where the wires and such plug into the cluster, the left side is separating from the metal underneath. I wonder if it couldn't be stuck back down? Or just leave it and let the pressure from the clip on the plug keep it down?





This is my main concern. The little connecting strip over the ICVR is disconnected. It isn't damaged in the slightest, but it is pulled off. Could this also be somehow reconnected?





Nice and clean now though. The parents weren't entirely happy about it getting done on their dining room table, but it'll buff out hahaha

While I'm at this cluster thing, I'm going to redo it so she's all nice and pretty again. I'm considering using some fake chrome to bring some shine in on it, along with some fresh black white and maybe gray paint. I'll buff the plastics and repaint the gauges too, so I can actually tell how fast I'm going hahaha

 

looks like you'll need a new cluster circuit paper, they aren't too horribly exensive, nice truck you got there

 

None of the circuits are broken from what I can see, and the idiot lights work, so I talked it over with one of the guys here from the forum and I think I'm going to try the voltage regulator and if that doesn't fix it then hunt down a new board.

Also, thankee kindly

 

The motor has been removed. Can't wait for this weekend to tear it down and start cleaning and painting...everything





Released and about to be pulled out with our old Clark forklift





Dad moving it over to our shop to get mounted up on the engine stand.

 

A couple more pictures of the adventure.

The engine stand sags a little under the weight of this cast iron beast, but it should hold. Especially with hardened head bolts holding it in. I knew dad's chebbie loving ways would come in handy

Also, that torque converter looks a lot newer than stock. Plus, I don't think they came in Orange. Anybody know about that?

 

Hmm, they didn't post. This new app is still kinda hinkey I guess. Round 2

Edit- still nothing. I'll have to post them when I get to my computer after work.

 

Those old M dizzy worked good back in the day but damn for what a guy has to paid for points in todays world don't really cut it any more.

The Pertronix ignitor II or III with matching coils is way better IMO.

I've tried all 3 ignitor units and the II & III have it over the first (I) generation of ignitor units.

Buy them once and be done with the high cost of points.
Clean up that Mallory dizzy and sell on c/list or ebay to cover the cost
of a (P) ignitor unit is what, I'd do.

Orich

 

I think you might be onto something there.
What is the difference in the Pertronix 1,2,3?

 

The first generation(I) unit is about like installing a new set of points not much over that. But 2nd & 3rd unit seem to have more seat of the pants increase of power that came in after 2500-3000 rpm.

You can do a web search for more input on each uint.
The 1st. unit had over heating & melt down issues if the ign. key was left on with out the engine running for more then 1 minute or so.

I've moved on to try the HEI Chevy style unit switch is about like the Pertronix ignitor III unit.

I think it my engine starts up cool about the same with the HEI & Ignitor III unit. IMO. I never did any speed runs like a 1/8 or 1/4 mile test runs tho.

Orich

Orich

 

Right on, thanks Orich. I'll have to do some more reading on it, but I think I will go with a pertronix if it comes with that good of a recommendation.

 

What did you do on the cluster's printed circuit board? Ford used to have some Backlite repair stuff. Looked like liquid solder. That was used to fix separations in the grid of a heated back window (backlite). The aftermarket world prolly has it also. That prolly would have worked.