1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

My 70 F250

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  #31  
Old 03-02-2015, 11:16 AM
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Here are the pics that I was meaning to post yesterday





Switching out two hoses ended up being a bit of a disaster





They hang a little bit low, but they don't leak, so thats fine with me!





All nice and snug with no drips, drops, leaks or puddles!





Popped the passenger side plugs out for the compression test, all of them look pretty damn good! I'm pleased with that toasted-marshmallow color going on





But the drivers side was not so good. 3 out of 4 plugs were fine but the number one was a little beyond toasted. Maybe a lot beyond toasted...





Looks like a burnt valve to me
 
  #32  
Old 03-02-2015, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by orich
A cherry picker was what ford used to remove them.
WHAT ever MAKES IT EASIER do it..
Gotcha! I've got a solid plan now, thanks!!
 
  #33  
Old 03-02-2015, 11:25 AM
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Yea a burned out exh. seat the valve ends up being some what cooked from the leaking valve seat..
Orich
 
  #34  
Old 03-02-2015, 11:28 AM
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You have to remember these original engines were designed to run on leaded gas, running unleaded will cause the valves to wear out much quicker. Most F 250's found today with spoke wheels originally came with lock ring wheels. It wasn't a styling decision by the owners, it was more than likely a tire shop sales pitch to dump their lock ring wheels for their wagon wheels, never mentioning the fact that Ford also manufactured solid wheels. I say dump all the aftermarket stuff, and go back to Ford options only.
 
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Old 03-02-2015, 09:03 PM
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It was a matter of safety as to many people got hurt. '
Even most the 18 wheeler truck have switched over one piece rims.

Heavy duty haul trucks & earth movers still use spilt rims.
The last time saw any mining haul trucks.
Orich
 
  #36  
Old 03-03-2015, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by oaklandford
Most F 250's found today with spoke wheels originally came with lock ring wheels. It wasn't a styling decision by the owners, it was more than likely a tire shop sales pitch to dump their lock ring wheels for their wagon wheels, never mentioning the fact that Ford also manufactured solid wheels.

I've been thinking hard recently about going to factory steelies and spraying them black. I just can't decide which I like more in the looks department hahaha

Tell me some more about these wheels though? I'm not sure I follow
 
  #37  
Old 03-03-2015, 06:39 PM
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My camper special came with 16.5" one piece steel wheels. Today the hot setup is the later 16" stock wheels. You can get many different size 16" tires and a couple of width wheels.
 
  #38  
Old 03-03-2015, 09:19 PM
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Start checking the tire prices for eack 16.5 & 16 and I sure you'll go the 16's.
16.5 were kind of became odd ball size after many new trucks started using 17's & up.

Orich
 
  #39  
Old 03-17-2015, 03:15 PM
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Been on vacation for a while and the ocean was nice, but its time to get back to the truck!

I had found a set of heads to replace the iffy ones on the truck along with an aluminum edelbrock intake, but the guy sold them out from under me.
Called up my machinist and he said he would rebuild my heads for $300! Imagine that, cheaper than the ones on craigslist!

That intake really burns my *** though, its $340 brand new and he wanted $100 for it. Anybody have an aluminum intake laying around they dont want??

Besides that, I got a Chilton's manual for the truck that will be a huge help and have a turn signal assembly on the way so she's all legal again!

Its not much, but its certainly progress
 
  #40  
Old 03-17-2015, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Nicktitan
Been on vacation for a while and the ocean was nice, but its time to get back to the truck!

I had found a set of heads to replace the iffy ones on the truck along with an aluminum edelbrock intake, but the guy sold them out from under me.
Called up my machinist and he said he would rebuild my heads for $300! Imagine that, cheaper than the ones on craigslist!

That intake really burns my *** though, its $340 brand new and he wanted $100 for it. Anybody have an aluminum intake laying around they dont want??

Besides that, I got a Chilton's manual for the truck that will be a huge help and have a turn signal assembly on the way so she's all legal again!

Its not much, but its certainly progress
Check out your local swap meets.

Here in SoCal the Pamona swap meet goes on once every 6 weeks or so and there is entire sections with nothing but FE parts. Seen some people selling FE aluminum intakes for $100-$200 in good working order. Not sure if you said whether or not you have a FE, but whatever it is you have, I am sure they would have it. One guy literally had tarps and tarps just laying on the ground covered in endless amounts of aluminum intakes. A sight to see.

Ive also seen some great deals for headers / aluminum intakes on craigslist.
 
  #41  
Old 03-17-2015, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Nicktitan
Been on vacation for a while and the ocean was nice, but its time to get back to the truck!

I had found a set of heads to replace the iffy ones on the truck along with an aluminum edelbrock intake, but the guy sold them out from under me.
Called up my machinist and he said he would rebuild my heads for $300! Imagine that, cheaper than the ones on craigslist!

That intake really burns my *** though, its $340 brand new and he wanted $100 for it. Anybody have an aluminum intake laying around they dont want??

Besides that, I got a Chilton's manual for the truck that will be a huge help and have a turn signal assembly on the way so she's all legal again!

Its not much, but its certainly progress
A rebuilt set of FE heads for $300 is a great deal if it also included harden exhaust seats.

It cost me over $500 in 1997 and then 2006 $800 for my last set,
I had done, and, I supplied all the parts.

You'll be right back where your at now with burned exh seat & valves if he don't install harden exh seats. in no time as gas keeps getting worse with what the EPA pushing E-10 E-15 in many areas..

If it was me, I'd call that shop and make sure what you get for $300

Now if they were D2 OR D4 heads they have the harden set..

Orich
 
  #42  
Old 03-24-2015, 11:03 PM
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So I have had enough with the turn signals not working. I ordered a whole new assembly, from connectors, wires all the way through the column, to the whole new plastic turn signal assembly under the steering wheel.

Got it monday, took today to get it installed in about two hours, and guess what!!

It doesn't ******* work. Still. The left side works like a champ, both turn signals and brake lights, but the right side is very dim on the brake light and the turn signals don't blink.
Good Lord, what does it take to get turn signals/brake lights to work??
 
  #43  
Old 03-24-2015, 11:03 PM
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Besides that, I'm getting a set of headers finally, headed about an hour away to pick them up tomorrow!
 
  #44  
Old 03-25-2015, 07:49 AM
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Grounds are probably bad on the right side.
 
  #45  
Old 03-25-2015, 08:49 AM
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Yes correct trouble shooting will find the problems. I've have found many wiring problems just forward at plug of the light fixture that where corroded.
Orich
 


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