I thought I'd post a question here before I resort to lighting my truck on fire and pushing it off a cliff...lol

I had a leaky oil pan gasket on my 85 F-250 (460).. I've done plenty of oil pan gaskets before, so I figured it would be a no brainer. Changed the gasket, drove the truck down the road, and bam!!,,,, it's leaking again. Worse than before. The side rail parts were almost falling out.

Figuring that I just overtightened the bolts, I bought another gasket, went through the whole thing again, and this time I just barely snugged the bolts using a flathead screwdriver stuck in the end of the socket..... Start the truck, drive it down the road, and bam!!... LEAKING AGAIN!!.. same deal. side gaskets looked to be squeezing out. At this point I'm thinking that the bolt holes might be distored from over tightening. Dropped the pan and the holes look fine. even checked them with a straight edge. Both times, I've skinned the side rail gaskets with silicone (I've always used permatex in the past) so I figured this time I would go back to the permetex. Buy ANOTHER gasket, get it installed with the permatex, start snugging the bolts (from the center out), and as soon as I get them all snugged up (not even tight at all yet), I notice the gasket squeezing out. Not at the bolt holes, but between them..... What the heck is going on here???..... Is my pan warped somehow?. I know I'm not over tightening the bolts. I double checked the gasket part number too... And it seems to be the right one.

 

my gasket is doing the same. i have a 89 460 and would like ideas on how to fix this also

 

It sounds like you've warped the pan rail sheet metal from overtightening. Put the rail on a flat surface, use a piece of flat metal the width of the rail and pound the rails straight.

When you install the new gaskets, don't forget to use a gasket conditioner that will hold the gasket to the pan (many contain a form of contact cement) and also use it on the engine block pan rails.

 

Guys, I spoke with a buddy of mine about this also and he suggested pretty much the same thing. Since I've already checked the straightness of the pan rails, he suggested using a gasket cement instead of things like permatex #2 that I've used in the past. He's built many engines for circle track racing and got this tip from another professional engine builder. His suggestion was to use 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive (the yellow type, part #08001).
Glue the rail gaskets to the pan and allow the cement to dry. (I'll be letting it dry until the gaskets won't move).
Coat the block surfaces, and the block side of the gaskets and install the pan.
Then allow the cement to dry for a day before adding oil. (Just a precaution I suppose.)

This is what I'm trying next. I'll let you all know how it works out...

 

Try putting on the gaskets totally dry without any sealer (except for a dab of RTV at the block to front cover boundary.) This does require the surfaces to be totally clean though.

 

I just used the FelPro one-piece gasket. It goes on dry. No RTV anywhere. If you want to use it make sure you remove the steel sleeves in the four corners that have the bigger bolts. Mine stayed in place very well and with the steel crush limiters you can't over tighten it. Once tightened it looks like a slight bulge of black rubber all around. I have also used the one piece one on my Chevy completely dry and it doesn't leak a drop.

 

I've had the problem of the gasket sliding out. I put RTV lightly on the pan and the block and allowed it dry on the pan let it get tacky on the block. I finaly got it to not slide out on my fourth try, not fun.

 

Just used super blue, good coat both sides, lightly seated bolts, let dry for an hour or so, then torqued it down, some squeeze but no leak.

 

I have always had success by using Ultra Copper silicone. The technique is critical, IMO. Coat both sides of the gaskets and install pan with only very slight tension, equal on all bolts. Leave to set overnight then tighten all bolts good and snug, but not to death after, the silicone has cured overnight. Systematically go through all bolts 2-3 times to ensure even torque. If you use this method and your pan and block sealing surfaces are o.k. and clean then this will work great for you and last a long time. I've succesfully used this method on Fords, Pontiacs, and Chevys. It's good stuff.
Doug

 

This one piece rubber one seals so tight I could have painted my engine white. It will still pass the white glove!

 

Where did you buy the one piece gasket? Local stores do not seem to have it, and Federal Mogul website does not list one for 460 that I can find? Thank you, Hired Gun

 

I got it at Schucks Auto Supply in North Bend Oregon. 541-756-7053 Ask for Betty. Looking at my receipt it looks like OS34600R FEL O/P SET 25.99 They have it on there web page but it doesn't really tell what it is.
http://www.partsamerica.com/PartDeta...umber=OS34600R

It is for a newer model 460 but it fit my 1987 with me removing very carefully the steel crush limiters from the four corners as these have a bigger bolt in these locations. I just bent it over hard and used a razor to skin it out of there. Don't use any sealer anywhere as this will make a leak path.

 

When you guys do your pan gasket replacements, do you lift the motor as much as possible, and drop the pan and try to fish the one piece gasket under the oil pump pickup? Or, do you remove the pickup tube and reinstall after the gasket is slipped in? Also, what kind of time does it take start to finish? I have a major leak and don't have a whole bunch of time to do it, and definately not the money to have someone else do it..
Mark

 

I am beginning to think that the rubber used in many new gaskets is not as good as old gaskets. My most recent experience is with tranny pan gaskets, haven't needed to drop an oil pan in maybe 20 years. I have had trouble with rubber or composition gaskets squeezing out with less torque than the book specifies. Maybe just prejudice but it seems like most of the new gaskets I have benn getting are made in Taiwan. My opinion of Taiwan rubber products is not printable but I think they are lousey. So I am guessing the taiwan rubber gaskets are the problem. I like the gaskets that are like hard fiber board, but haven't found any lately. Cork is bad with overtorquing but not as bad as these new rubber gaskets. Cork usually splits, the rubber ones seem to ooze.

The way I have been doing it lately is use a good gasket sealer( I like Copper Seal or permatex #2 as a second choice) on the absolutely clean and dry surfaces of the engine, pan and gasket. I let them get tacky and then mount the gasket then put the pan on and lightly tighten all the bolts. Then I torque all the bolts in a pattern to way less than half specification. Then I let it dry for quite awhile, over nite is good, then I try to torque them to spec, but so far haven't succeded, usually get to maybe 75%. I torque til I see the rubber start to bulge, then stop. Then I fill with oil and hope for the best. So far it has worked on the last two pans I have done.

From other comments, I might go back and see if I can get a little more torque on the bolts since maybe by now(a couple months) the sealer has had a chance to set up.

Used to be I never had to worry about gaskets, even cork, but now they all seem like they want to squirm their way out about a week after a change

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson

 

I use 3m Formica contact adhesive (walmart). Paint the clean block surface and the correct mating surface of the gasket. let both surfaces dry then put the gasket on the block. (you better put it on right becuse this stuff isn't going to let you pull the gasket backoff in one piece). I then put a little RTV in the corners and tighten the bolts in two passes to the recommended torque value.I have done dozens of engines from numerous manufactures without a problem.