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Question about rear ends (automotive) ;-)

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Old 10-16-2013, 09:56 AM
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Question about rear ends (automotive) ;-)

My 56 has the rearend out of a 56 mercury car (not sure which), the bolt pattern is 5x5. I want to end up with a 5x4.5 pattern to match the front. I don't want to use wheel adapters so I'm wondering what the best option would be. I don't think the rears from later model f100's had 4.5 bolt patterns so I'm assuming I'm going to need something from a car correct? Is it possible to just swap axles or something?
 
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:15 AM
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Try an 8.8 out of an Explorer. They're probably the closest match width wise, with the option of having rear disc brakes.
 
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:18 AM
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Interesting. Seems that should be ridiculously easy to find in a junk yard too. Any particular years better than others for fitment?


Originally Posted by yamagrant
Try an 8.8 out of an Explorer. They're probably the closest match width wise, with the option of having rear disc brakes.
 
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:53 AM
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I'm not sure the yrs. Try the search function. good luck.
 
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:59 AM
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If all you want is a 5x4.5 BC and you are happy the your diff just get the axles re-drilled in the pattern you want. Usually can be done at a machine for about a hundred bucks. A lot less work.
 
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Old 10-16-2013, 11:50 AM
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I had the same issue, and had a machine shop re-drill the axle flanges and brake drums for the new pattern in between the original stud holes. i also had them install new studs in the new holes. You have to have this done by a machine shop to keep all dimensions correct to prevent vibrations. I have ran my truck on a chassis dino up to 130 mph afterward with no vibrations.
 
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Old 10-16-2013, 12:03 PM
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yeah that's another idea, may end up going that route. Search function gives way too many non related results and I got tired of clicking through them.


Originally Posted by rswhitmore
I had the same issue, and had a machine shop re-drill the axle flanges and brake drums for the new pattern in between the original stud holes. i also had them install new studs in the new holes. You have to have this done by a machine shop to keep all dimensions correct to prevent vibrations. I have ran my truck on a chassis dino up to 130 mph afterward with no vibrations.
 
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Old 10-16-2013, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ohbrian
yeah that's another idea, may end up going that route. Search function gives way too many non related results and I got tired of clicking through them.
Sometimes is about knowing where and how to click
This article has information you are looking for:
1953 - 1956 F100 Rear End Selection and Rear Suspension Lowering .: Articles
 
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