1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

rear disk brakes

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  #31  
Old 10-16-2013, 05:45 AM
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I think that sounds like a good idea to go with the hydroboost setup. I don't know what to say about the light for sure.

I'd say you didn't have something right if one side got ruined and the other didn't. Maybe the one that didn't get ruined has a bad parking brake cable? Just a thought.

If you do a hydroboost setup, start a new thread. I'd be interested in how it goes.
 
  #32  
Old 10-18-2013, 09:57 AM
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Hydroboost is the way to go with the drums.

Just saying.

Going to do this conversion this winter probably.

Sick of having a ****ty pedal.

The vacuum system in our trucks is horrible, which is why our brake system's are so poor.
 
  #33  
Old 10-18-2013, 10:05 AM
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Good morning William!
 
  #34  
Old 10-18-2013, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Talyn
Hydroboost is the way to go with the drums.

Just saying.

Going to do this conversion this winter probably.

Sick of having a ****ty pedal.

The vacuum system in our trucks is horrible, which is why our brake system's are so poor.
Wait, What!? Where did this guy come from? Good to see you in here again William.
 
  #35  
Old 10-18-2013, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by DIYMechanic
Wait, What!? Where did this guy come from? Good to see you in here again William.
What what?

Our brakes suck on our trucks because of the vacuum booster.

Hydroboost was put on the SD's cause of this reason.

Convert to hydroboost and electric vacuum, problem solved.

I just replaced my vacuum pump earlier this year and its already failing again.
 
  #36  
Old 10-18-2013, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by oldbird1965
Damn your good Darin!! I was wondering if anybody was going to catch me on that. OK, here is my screw up. Just out of Vegas, almost home, we stopped in the desert to take a break. I was on a hill so I set the emergency brake. We took off and twenty miles later at the next town my brakes felt real funny. Then I realize I had left the brake on. The back rear passenger side was OK but the drivers side was toast. When I did the brakes last winter same thing, passenger side was like new, drivers side bad. I put new shoes, cylinders and springs on but I guess I didn't get them adjusted right. I actually saved the good side from last year and put them on the 'toasted' side. I think I got them all adjusted right this time.

I never have liked drums and can't say which one stops better. TSM in a email said not to use the dual calipers on the rear unless I have a lot of weight in the rear or they will tend to lock up?? I think I have decided to go hydroboost.

I was thinking about a new thread. The brake light doesn't work. The wire is connected at the emergency break. The vaccume pump is new, fluid is topped off. When you turn the key on in test mode the light doesn't show up. I looked in the book and couldn't identify a fuse for that light so I pulled all the fuses and they are all good. Must be a burned out bulb, IDK.
The rear disks can stick also. In new england if you don't do 6 month cleaning of the slider pins, they will seize up and then you will have brake stuck on. Happened last summer pulling the camper to Maine. The good thing about the disks is the caliper is right there in the open so a hammer and 5-10 minutes of beating on it will generally free it up enough. But you southern guys will need to change pads way before you need to worry about rust
 
  #37  
Old 10-18-2013, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by wildstang
The rear disks can stick also. In new england if you don't do 6 month cleaning of the slider pins, they will seize up and then you will have brake stuck on. Happened last summer pulling the camper to Maine. The good thing about the disks is the caliper is right there in the open so a hammer and 5-10 minutes of beating on it will generally free it up enough. But you southern guys will need to change pads way before you need to worry about rust
I've never had that issue.

Which slider pins are you talking about?
 
  #38  
Old 10-18-2013, 11:37 AM
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The bolts that go are in the rubber boots. Your in TN not VT. You probably see more salt blown in from the sea than road salt. LOL
 
  #39  
Old 10-18-2013, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by wildstang
The bolts that go are in the rubber boots. Your in TN not VT. You probably see more salt blown in from the sea than road salt. LOL
I'm from michigan mate.

I know all about salt, and my truck has went though 2 michigan winters. have not had that issue.
 
  #40  
Old 10-18-2013, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Talyn
I'm from michigan mate.

I know all about salt, and my truck has went though 2 michigan winters. have not had that issue.
Time to update your location. Unless spring hill TN is your witness protection address. LOL.

Didn't mean to indicate they all will. But it does happen. Has happened on my escort. I wish they would go back to the rubber/steel wedge pins.
 
  #41  
Old 10-19-2013, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Talyn
What what?

Our brakes suck on our trucks because of the vacuum booster.

Hydroboost was put on the SD's cause of this reason.

Convert to hydroboost and electric vacuum, problem solved.

I just replaced my vacuum pump earlier this year and its already failing again.
lol idk if you wanted to repeat yourself of if you thought Nate was confused.

He was saying HELLOOOOOO STRANGER!

lol and I'm not sure I understand the whole sliding pin issue, but then again I havent had ANY issues with my brake system since I've owned the truck. *knock on wood*

Other than the lights I guess.
 
  #42  
Old 10-19-2013, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Awitte58
lol idk if you wanted to repeat yourself of if you thought Nate was confused.

He was saying HELLOOOOOO STRANGER!

lol and I'm not sure I understand the whole sliding pin issue, but then again I havent had ANY issues with my brake system since I've owned the truck. *knock on wood*

Other than the lights I guess.
Unless you have a SD you wouldn't. I like the obs setup for caliper connection
 
  #43  
Old 10-19-2013, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by wildstang
Unless you have a SD you wouldn't. I like the obs setup for caliper connection
For those questioning or not understanding the slide pin issue, calipers have to be able to "float" in order to press the pads into the rotor on both sides since there are only pistons on one side. Hints why you need to clean and put a little grease on them everytime you do pads or apparently up north every 6 months. lol
 
  #44  
Old 10-19-2013, 02:49 PM
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For what it's worth I do see a lot of sticking slide pins on disk brakes up here since they have been using the calcium brine solution on the roads. That is some nasty stuff. I don't know about cleaning them every 6 months, but I definitely check or clean them whenever I do a brake job.
 
  #45  
Old 10-19-2013, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by DIYMechanic
For what it's worth I do see a lot of sticking slide pins on disk brakes up here since they have been using the calcium brine solution on the roads. That is some nasty stuff. I don't know about cleaning them every 6 months, but I definitely check or clean them whenever I do a brake job.
Yeah, everytime I do a brake job I pull the pins out, clean them up real good and give them a new light coat of grease.
 


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