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Brake Pads and Rotors

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Old 10-12-2013, 10:07 AM
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Brake Pads and Rotors

I have to replace the pads and rotors on my 2008 F350 What do you guys recommend or does it not matter?
 
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Old 10-12-2013, 10:44 AM
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On our 02 F250 we have bosch brakes and they are great brakes but if you are towing then I would recommend looking into a slotted/drilled brake.
Trav
 
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Old 10-12-2013, 07:50 PM
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I love my ART rotors and pads.
 
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Old 10-13-2013, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Dogmann
I have to replace the pads and rotors on my 2008 F350 What do you guys recommend or does it not matter?
How many miles do you have on the original pads?

I had about 80k on my original pads and rotors on my '06 when I changed the pads. Rotor surfaces were still in good shape. Based on that experience, I didn't have to ask what pads to replace them with. OEM baby!!! And I specified brown box OEM, not Motorcraft equivalent. I'll let you know in another 60k how well that worked out for me.
 
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Old 10-14-2013, 03:18 AM
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Very happy with my Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors and Hawk LTS pads
 
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Old 10-14-2013, 05:15 AM
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I've got O'reilly brakes, what ever the mid level ones are. They are squeaky, but they dont dust much, and they get me stopped.

I am almost due, but I will probably replace a lot of parts (calipers) so I will do a lot of homework at once when its time
 
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Old 10-14-2013, 09:42 AM
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I got about 125k out of the original brakes on my 450--replaced with Ford OEM parts. If I get another 125 out of them, I'll be happy...I tow a very heavy fifth wheel a lot.
Joe
 
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Old 11-02-2013, 03:22 PM
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Question pads stuck in bracket

I just had the oil and fuel maintenance done and the tech told me my brakes are shot...2008 and 35k miles!! The backing plates on the pads are rusted to the point of disintegration. I decided to try the brake job myself because I don't want the same crap that Ford put on at the factory. I'm no amateur, I've done many GM truck brakes over the years. I got the caliper off and the pads wouldn't come. Ok...The bracket is now off and the pads are rusted tight. I presume that they come out the back of the bracket (away from the rotor)... Any ideas on how to get the pads out, short of a torch?
As always, thanks and regards...and sorry if I high-jacked this thread...
 
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Old 11-02-2013, 04:21 PM
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I say go to the closest parts store and get the cheapest ones they have. Less dust and they will stop you just fine.
 
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Old 11-04-2013, 01:18 PM
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THANKS!

Originally Posted by EXv10
I say go to the closest parts store and get the cheapest ones they have. Less dust and they will stop you just fine.
I drove the pads out of the bracket with a hammer and punch. The replacement looks easy now...Regards...joe
 
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Old 11-04-2013, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by yukondiesel
I drove the pads out of the bracket with a hammer and punch. The replacement looks easy now...Regards...joe
Sorry I missed that part, you can usually get them out with some persuasion. I just got some new pads today and got them in. They were for the rear and they were from O'reillys and $21 for all 4 rear pads and powdercoated so they won't do what yours did.
 
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Old 11-05-2013, 05:31 PM
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Making progress!

Thanks again. Iput one side back together today with anti-seize and brake lube so the next time it might be easier. It's taking me a while becasue i get to work on it in 20-30 minute increments and I am figuring it out as I go. The other three wheels will go much faster. Are the rear brakes significantly different ? Thanks again...joe

OBTW: the original setup and the new pads have a small insert that goes between the retainer/anti rattle and the bracket. What is that thing? Some other replacement pad sets don't have it. There is only one per wheel.
 
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Old 11-05-2013, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by yukondiesel
Thanks again. Iput one side back together today with anti-seize and brake lube so the next time it might be easier. It's taking me a while becasue i get to work on it in 20-30 minute increments and I am figuring it out as I go. The other three wheels will go much faster. Are the rear brakes significantly different ? Thanks again...joe

OBTW: the original setup and the new pads have a small insert that goes between the retainer/anti rattle and the bracket. What is that thing? Some other replacement pad sets don't have it. There is only one per wheel.
The rear brakes are even easier because they are smaller. I would have to see a picture of that retainer part. I just put all new shoes in the back and used O'reillys cheapest pads and they work just fine. The ones I took out had 1/16 th of an inch left on them and they were stamped "Ford" so I think they are the original ones at 165k miles. It cost $22 for the whole set for 2 wheels and for the amount of time it takes to install, and the miles you get out of them, I don't know why people spend so much money on super duper brakes and rotors. BTW; all my rotors are original at 165k miles and it stops very well with no shimmy or shake. While I was at it I pulled the slide pins out of all 4 brakes and they were all dry but free so I cleaned them up and greased them with high temp disc brake grease. All my brakes have the anti-squeal thin pads riveted to the back of them and the front ones have those 2 wire springs that go into little holes in the shoes to keep them off the rotors when they are not applied. These "cheapo" pads are semi-metallic and are powder coated to stay rust free. They will probably last as long as I have the truck
 
  #14  
Old 11-05-2013, 08:56 PM
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Pics

I got some pics, but I can't attach them...
 
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Old 11-05-2013, 09:26 PM
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I love my Raybestos pads and rotors from RockAuto Parts Catalog
 


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