Lifter R&R 6.9
#16
10-08-2013, 06:30 AM
Just read that the 84' F series 6.9 came with roller lifters. So roller lifters it will be. Now to find a better price than Napa's $16.99 ea.
#18
10-08-2013, 06:33 AM
Laughing Gas
#19
10-08-2013, 06:35 AM
#20
10-08-2013, 06:37 AM
Laughing Gas
That is very important information!
EDIT: If the engine has roller lifters then replace with the same kind. It might be expensive to replace all if only one is bad. Use my instructions to determine the failed component- it might not be a lifter.
The roller could be worn or flattened like a flat tire.
#23
10-08-2013, 07:23 PM
Pulled the right side valve cover tonight. First thing I noticed is that the 5th & 6th rocker arms are different from the others. Most of the carriers are aluminum, but the 5/6th ones look steel and a different design.
Second thing I noticed is that one of the push rod ends seemed a tad mushed in. This one was in the area where I heard the ticking before teardown.
Third thing - some of the lifter rollers had a light, gritty feel to them. They all spun freely, and most rolled smooth.
Fourth thing - many if not all of the rocker arms had worn down areas in the steel were the pushrods pressed against. A few of them looked more worn than the others.
Questions:
1) Do I only replace the lifters that didn't roll perfectly smooth? Is it generally safe to reuse the ones that roll smooth?
2) Should all of the pushrods be replaced since they appear to be high wear items?
3) Should all the rockers be replaced? The aluminum carriers look old and worn. I don't have a way to measure since my micrometer won't fit inside the carriers.
Pic of the right side including the rocker arm assembly that is different from the others:
Second thing I noticed is that one of the push rod ends seemed a tad mushed in. This one was in the area where I heard the ticking before teardown.
Third thing - some of the lifter rollers had a light, gritty feel to them. They all spun freely, and most rolled smooth.
Fourth thing - many if not all of the rocker arms had worn down areas in the steel were the pushrods pressed against. A few of them looked more worn than the others.
Questions:
1) Do I only replace the lifters that didn't roll perfectly smooth? Is it generally safe to reuse the ones that roll smooth?
2) Should all of the pushrods be replaced since they appear to be high wear items?
3) Should all the rockers be replaced? The aluminum carriers look old and worn. I don't have a way to measure since my micrometer won't fit inside the carriers.
Pic of the right side including the rocker arm assembly that is different from the others:
#26
10-08-2013, 07:44 PM
Laughing Gas
The right side rocker arm lineup appears odd. Some of those rocker arms, depending on timing, should be pressed down to open the intake or exhaust valves and they all seem to be at TDC.
The mushroomed push rod, or any with more than typical appearance should be replaced. (A side note: I worked on this old woman's Ford truck one time. She was so concerned because the engine had been replaced (long block) two years earlier and the shop said she needed a new engine. I pulled the valve covers and found 3 bent push rods. These were stamped Mexico and were about half the weight of the USA push rods. I replaced the push rods @ about $6 a piece and she never had any additional problems. So for $128 she was back in bidness.)
I would think the rollers that feel rough are about to fail and should be replaced. You do the math in terms of your needs and how many you feel rough-v-how many you replace. If one feels rough replace one; 40% feel feel rough, replace them all. For the rocker arms I would suggest the same methodology. Check those valve keepers and the spring retaining washers. When you are that far I suggest replacing your valve seals.
Good luck and please keep us posted. Remember, a $2000 job can be accomplished by a competent individual for 1/4 to 1/3 the price.
The mushroomed push rod, or any with more than typical appearance should be replaced. (A side note: I worked on this old woman's Ford truck one time. She was so concerned because the engine had been replaced (long block) two years earlier and the shop said she needed a new engine. I pulled the valve covers and found 3 bent push rods. These were stamped Mexico and were about half the weight of the USA push rods. I replaced the push rods @ about $6 a piece and she never had any additional problems. So for $128 she was back in bidness.)
I would think the rollers that feel rough are about to fail and should be replaced. You do the math in terms of your needs and how many you feel rough-v-how many you replace. If one feels rough replace one; 40% feel feel rough, replace them all. For the rocker arms I would suggest the same methodology. Check those valve keepers and the spring retaining washers. When you are that far I suggest replacing your valve seals.
Good luck and please keep us posted. Remember, a $2000 job can be accomplished by a competent individual for 1/4 to 1/3 the price.
#27
10-08-2013, 08:01 PM
I would think the rollers that feel rough are about to fail and should be replaced. You do the math in terms of your needs and how many you feel rough-v-how many you replace. If one feels rough replace one; 40% feel feel rough, replace them all. For the rocker arms I would suggest the same methodology.
What you suggest sounds like it involves pulling the heads, right? I read elsewhere to avoid doing so if possible, as that could wind up being pretty expensive. Part of me thinks it would be a good idea to pull them both & have them reworked. But this is a work truck, and I'm already in way over my head in repairs. What kind of cost would I be looking at for seals, head gaskets and milling/grinding on two heads? A little afraid to ask!
#28
10-08-2013, 08:02 PM
Laughing Gas
The visible valve stems look like they are at a good height, although the one looks pretty worn on one edge. You want to make sure they all "stand tall" in the valve spring retainer and upper washer.
Some of the rocker arm assemblies look like someone used a silicone sealant to quiet the noise. Its an old trick that can last for a while.
Some of the rocker arm assemblies look like someone used a silicone sealant to quiet the noise. Its an old trick that can last for a while.
#29
10-08-2013, 08:15 PM
Laughing Gas
Maybe just the angle of the picture. Truck ran relatively smooth before teardown. I've been careful not to take off anything more than I need to in order to get to the lifters.
Dieselamour- OK.
Thanks - this sounds like useful advice. I'll go through all of the parts once I get the left side off. Looks like I *may* be able to get by with just removing the fuel filter and not the alternator. Dieselamour-Good. I hope it saves you money.
What you suggest sounds like it involves pulling the heads, right? I read elsewhere to avoid doing so if possible, as that could wind up being pretty expensive. Part of me thinks it would be a good idea to pull them both & have them reworked. But this is a work truck, and I'm already in way over my head in repairs. What kind of cost would I be looking at for seals, head gaskets and milling/grinding on two heads? A little afraid to ask!
Dieselamour- OK.
Thanks - this sounds like useful advice. I'll go through all of the parts once I get the left side off. Looks like I *may* be able to get by with just removing the fuel filter and not the alternator. Dieselamour-Good. I hope it saves you money.
What you suggest sounds like it involves pulling the heads, right? I read elsewhere to avoid doing so if possible, as that could wind up being pretty expensive. Part of me thinks it would be a good idea to pull them both & have them reworked. But this is a work truck, and I'm already in way over my head in repairs. What kind of cost would I be looking at for seals, head gaskets and milling/grinding on two heads? A little afraid to ask!
I hope this helps.
#30
10-08-2013, 08:33 PM
Laughing Gas
