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4 linking 78 F250 SC

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  #16  
Old 10-08-2013, 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by alpha/omega
So basically you've bought a truss because it looks cool and now you're going to do anything necessary to use it regardless of how functional or practical it is.

No, not at all. I ordered it with full intentions of using it as designed with coil springs. Then I started second guessing myself after further consideration towards load capacity.

It takes money to correctly link a truck, especially one you intend to drive regularly on the street. The joints, inserts and DOM is going to cost a grand alone.

Cost of all these parts is a little under $500.00.


Care to post some pics of the front 3 link and your 351m?
You've seen it before, it's just been awhile. Old Pics are in my gallery. Used all Teflon heims on the 3 link, going a different route this time due to the squeaking.
 
  #17  
Old 10-08-2013, 08:49 PM
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Since I already need a sway bar, getting one is in the plans. I'm sure 4 linking the rear will further the need.

What options are out there other than the universal Currie Antirock?

I thought about calling Hellwig to see what they have, but haven't had or made the time to call them yet.
 
  #18  
Old 10-08-2013, 08:50 PM
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4 linked vehicles and load carrying ability anywhere near stock do not go together. Its like apples and oranges. Your best bet is leaf springs.


You are not buying 8 QUALITY 1 1/4" rod ends, inserts and 20' of 2.25 x.375 DOM for $500 to correctly do a 4 link. Period.

Helwig Currie or anyone else is not going to sell you a bolt on kit for anything remotely close to what you want to do. Your best bet for a sway bar would be a drag car anti roll setup and extend the links - look at jegs or summit
Can you post a few pics please
 
  #19  
Old 10-08-2013, 09:25 PM
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  #20  
Old 10-08-2013, 09:37 PM
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Those are REALLY tiny heims and tube on your front dual abortion of a welded together non flexing non working like its supposed to link.
 
  #21  
Old 10-08-2013, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by alpha/omega
Those are REALLY tiny heims and tube on your front dual abortion of a welded together non flexing non working like its supposed to link.
I've dropped the front tires off of rock ledges onto the links, bounced over logs and landed on the links. Never bent one and never damaged a heim joint.

These are the same heims and tubes used by several competitors in the Pro Rock racing series and they don't break them either.

If you think you need to spend $60.00 each for a Johnny Joint, Poly Joint, Or Evolution Joint, and insert because they look pretty... have a larger OD.... good for you.

Talk all the smack you want. I'm comfortable with using "these" heims... other than the friggin' squeaking. They are not "cheap" heims by the way.
 
  #22  
Old 10-09-2013, 07:01 AM
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I can guarantee pro rock racers are not using economy grade 3/4 heims and 1.25-1.5" tube for links.
Even the best 3/4 heims are ~$25 each so yes they are cheap by EVERY 3-4 link standard and you telling us they squeek means that they are either not kevlar lined (upper end of the cheap ball and socket heims) or that they are worn out.

The bottom line is you can listen to me or a few others here who actually know what we're talking about or you can listen to people who have no idea what they are doing. I really don't care what you do regardless
 
  #23  
Old 10-09-2013, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by alpha/omega
4 linked vehicles and load carrying ability anywhere near stock do not go together. Its like apples and oranges. Your best bet is leaf springs.
Sounds like I already said that after the original post, but then again, what do I know....


OP, This is what gets us in "trouble". People come troll in here asking questions, then get pissy when they don't get the answer they want to hear. Long story short, if you have the crazy mad fab skilz you claim, then why ask the questions in the 1st place? Just go out and build your fancy Pro Rock Racing certified 4 link/leaf sprung setup and prove us wrong. Until then, we will stick to our guns and continue to tell you what we know and this is what you want and what will work are 2 totally different animals.
 
  #24  
Old 10-09-2013, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 1FastGambler





That's not a 3 link, that's a ****ed up radius arm abortion
 
  #25  
Old 10-09-2013, 07:25 PM
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4 replies up.....


Lucky, I bet you're using 3/4 heims and 1.25 sch 40 links too....
 
  #26  
Old 10-09-2013, 10:21 PM
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Look, I value your opinions and experience. That's why I'm here.

Yes the heims are Teflon, and yes they squeak when they get enough dust and dirt, no they are not worn out.

The bottom links are 1-1/2" .500 wall DOM. And yes the same materials were used by the 2002 UROCK champion rig.

Are there better options now in 2013? Yes, of course. That said, they did not have any breakage of links or heims, broke a lot of other stuff, but not link components. If it worked then, why not now? Because you said so? umm, ok.

Besides, how is this even relevant to my original question? Funny how easy it is to get off topic, eh?

Coil over's would be a great solution due to the endless spring rate options.

I have coils coming that match the factory spring rate that I'm going to try first.

Thanks for all the input men.

Cheers.
 
  #27  
Old 10-10-2013, 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by alpha/omega
4 replies up.....


Lucky, I bet you're using 3/4 heims and 1.25 sch 40 links too....

Nah, that's too heavy for me. I use toilet paper tubes and tractor heims

Originally Posted by 1FastGambler
Look, I value your opinions and experience. That's why I'm here.

Yes the heims are Teflon, and yes they squeak when they get enough dust and dirt, no they are not worn out.

The bottom links are 1-1/2" .500 wall DOM. And yes the same materials were used by the 2002 UROCK champion rig.

Are there better options now in 2013? Yes, of course. That said, they did not have any breakage of links or heims, broke a lot of other stuff, but not link components. If it worked then, why not now? Because you said so? umm, ok.



Cheers.
Your lower link material is plenty strong enough, your design is horrid though. Spring rate won't matter if you can't design your link set up properly. If you lube the joints they will stop squeaking.
 
  #28  
Old 10-10-2013, 06:31 AM
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I call bs on 1.5x.500 DOM. You would have to mill about 3/16" out of the ID just to tap it for 3/4 threads. Its also an extremely uncommon size
 
  #29  
Old 10-10-2013, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by alpha/omega
I call bs on 1.5x.500 DOM. You would have to mill about 3/16" out of the ID just to tap it for 3/4 threads. Its also an extremely uncommon size
You know what they say about "ASSume"?
 
  #30  
Old 10-10-2013, 09:17 PM
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I didn't assume. I'm making an extremely educated guess
 


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