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  #391  
Old 04-08-2014, 08:37 PM
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If it is the original resistor it should work. If you set it up so that it would run off of the battery but use the resistor instead of the wire it won't run?
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  #392  
Old 04-08-2014, 10:16 PM
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If you're hooking the module to the S on the relay, that's not going to work (as you're finding out).

The S terminal is fed power from the red/blue wire and is hot when the key is in START (and the clutch/NSS (if installed) is closed). This activates the electromagnet inside which closes the two large contacts together and thereby feeds power to the starter motor; it also feeds power to the solenoid's small I terminal (if applicable).

By crossing the battery and the S terminal, you activate the solenoid and feed the starter, you also power the ignition module but only until you release the starter. So, the behavior you're seeing is a exactly correct for how you've wired it up.

The module receives battery voltage in START on one wire and in RUN on the other wire, this is determined in the ignition switch. (The power in one wire in START tells the module to retard the timing.)

The coil receives full battery voltage in START and reduced voltage (via the resistor) in RUN.
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  #393  
Old 04-09-2014, 09:23 AM
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OK, so how do I "mimic" the ignition switch?
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  #394  
Old 04-09-2014, 10:11 AM
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Go back to your drawing and put a jumper from battery positive to coil positive. That will let you start it with a screwdriver. When that works then use the resistor in place of the jumper and see if it runs.
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  #395  
Old 04-09-2014, 10:42 AM
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Thanks to everyone helping me figure this out. I know the thing runs and runs good, that's enough for me right now. I'm getting very frustrated trying to run it without the proper setup,meaning the factory harness and ignition etc. I'm going to drain the coolant, replace the freeze plug again, and put it in storage so I can keep going forward.

When the time comes (body is done) I will plug everything in the way it's supposed to go and go from there.

Thanks again
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  #396  
Old 07-28-2014, 04:27 PM
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It's been a while since I've posted and I have done some work on the truck, but not lately. I've been spending sometime with the kids this summer and doing a little work to my daily driver to get a sticker.

I don't know if I mentioned it but my bed wasn't in the best shape so I had been looking for a replacement for a couple of months. Every one I looked at in this area was rotted to the same extent that mine was or worse. I found one on ebay in Georgia for a good price and had it $hipped up here. The new bed came off of a 82 f100. Excuse the pics, the first two are the ones that were on ebay and the last one the junkyard sent to me.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Here's my cab and my little cart I made for it

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

I stripped everything out of it, taking pictures all along the way, and gave the cab a good wash.

While everything was drying out I tried to get a plan in my head of what sections of the rust I wanted to work on first. Meaning rockers, floorpans and then cab corners or what. There was some cheap break metal covering the missing rockers and floorpans I pulled that stuff off and this is what was left of the drivers side!

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

I had to make new pieces to go in behind the cab corners where the sloping part of the floor meets the rocker. Here's the area I'm talking about.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Then I drilled out the spot welds on the rocker and tore that out and replaced it using LMC parts. I brought the pieces down to bare metal anywhere it was going to be plug welded or anywhere I wasn't going to be able to get after welding new pieces in and used SEM Copperweld weld thru primer.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Continuing on I put the new lower door post area on cutting and fitting an then butt welding. The pic is a little blurry but you get the idea.

Click the image to open in full size.

I made this piece to go on the inside of the lower door post in the front

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Cab corners and floorpans and a small spot of the floor support

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

These are all random pics of the work, there are too many pics to go through, so that's why some pictures don't show the completed product.
All the metal work has been completed driver and pass side but I need to upload some photos from the pass side.
I did clean up and POR the inside of the floor support, it doesn't show this in these pics but it was done also.
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  #397  
Old 07-28-2014, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piston Honda View Post
It's been a while since I've posted and I have done some work on the truck, but not lately. I've been spending sometime with the kids this summer and doing a little work to my daily driver to get a sticker.

I don't know if I mentioned it but my bed wasn't in the best shape so I had been looking for a replacement for a couple of months. Every one I looked at in this area was rotted to the same extent that mine was or worse. I found one on ebay in Georgia for a good price and had it $hipped up here. The new bed came off of a 82 f100. Excuse the pics, the first two are the ones that were on ebay and the last one the junkyard sent to me.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Here's my cab and my little cart I made for it

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

I stripped everything out of it, taking pictures all along the way, and gave the cab a good wash.

While everything was drying out I tried to get a plan in my head of what sections of the rust I wanted to work on first. Meaning rockers, floorpans and then cab corners or what. There was some cheap break metal covering the missing rockers and floorpans I pulled that stuff off and this is what was left of the drivers side!

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

I had to make new pieces to go in behind the cab corners where the sloping part of the floor meets the rocker. Here's the area I'm talking about.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Then I drilled out the spot welds on the rocker and tore that out and replaced it using LMC parts. I brought the pieces down to bare metal anywhere it was going to be plug welded or anywhere I wasn't going to be able to get after welding new pieces in and used SEM Copperweld weld thru primer.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Continuing on I put the new lower door post area on cutting and fitting an then butt welding. The pic is a little blurry but you get the idea.

Click the image to open in full size.

I made this piece to go on the inside of the lower door post in the front

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Cab corners and floorpans and a small spot of the floor support

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

These are all random pics of the work, there are too many pics to go through, so that's why some pictures don't show the completed product.
All the metal work has been completed driver and pass side but I need to upload some photos from the pass side.
I did clean up and POR the inside of the floor support, it doesn't show this in these pics but it was done also.
Are you a professional body man?
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1986 Ford F-250 XL 4X2 351W H.O. Weiand Stealth Intake, Comp XE250H Cam, Comp Magnum Rockers. Summit/Holley 600 CFM 4010 4V Carburetor. 130A 3G Alternator. 10.25" Rear With Open 3.55:1. 232,000 miles.
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  #398  
Old 07-29-2014, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FordFETruck View Post
Are you a professional body man?
Lol, no, this is the first time I've ever welded sheet metal. I just practiced on a piece of scrap and when I thought I was doing alright I went to town. I was always interested in metal fabrication, but never tried it. The plug welds were the most difficult for me, some I had to do over and over, the holes were filling up with weld and I wasn't getting good penetration. I adjusted the heat and distance and speed several times and kinda got the hang of it. The plugs now seem to be very strong, so I hope everything holds up.

The metal on top of the floor supports where the seat tracks run was all bubbled up with rust holes and needed to be fixed as well. There's tools all over the place but you can see what I'm talking about, the rust was all built up in between the spot welds

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

The passenger side seemed to be in better shape, but when I got working it was just as much work.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

For the most part the LMC parts were pretty good quality, the cab corners dimensions were off quite a bit though. I had to cut them and rework them to get them to fit right.

Click the image to open in full size.

You can see that the cab corner is off nearly a 1/4" left to right and it has a 1/4" space in between the return and the lower door post!

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

I cut along the tape line and then moved the return piece in back of the face of the cab corner to make up the space in the back.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
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  #399  
Old 07-29-2014, 12:35 PM
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Well you body work sure looks clean and neat. I've seen some other's body work before like this, and it wasn't near as clean or as neat looking.
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1986 Ford F-250 XL 4X2 351W H.O. Weiand Stealth Intake, Comp XE250H Cam, Comp Magnum Rockers. Summit/Holley 600 CFM 4010 4V Carburetor. 130A 3G Alternator. 10.25" Rear With Open 3.55:1. 232,000 miles.
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  #400  
Old 07-29-2014, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FordFETruck View Post
Well you body work sure looks clean and neat. I've seen some other's body work before like this, and it wasn't near as clean or as neat looking.
Thanks! The next step is to put the cab on it's back and fill in any pin holes and POR-15 the underside.
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  #401  
Old 07-29-2014, 07:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Piston Honda View Post
Thanks! The next step is to put the cab on it's back and fill in any pin holes and POR-15 the underside.
Are you going to bed line the inside?

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.


That's what I did, for rustproofing. I used a gallon and sprayed it in, with a drywall texture gun on the entire floor and back wall. Took me 4 hours of non stop prepping.
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1986 Ford F-250 XL 4X2 351W H.O. Weiand Stealth Intake, Comp XE250H Cam, Comp Magnum Rockers. Summit/Holley 600 CFM 4010 4V Carburetor. 130A 3G Alternator. 10.25" Rear With Open 3.55:1. 232,000 miles.
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  #402  
Old 07-29-2014, 08:00 PM
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Did you make those panel clamps yourself?
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  #403  
Old 07-29-2014, 08:03 PM
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Doubt it. I have the same ones and got mine from Eastwood. They work well and give just the right gap to weld.
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1950 Chevy 3100 in queue
Worst fear: I die and my wife sells my rides for what I've told her I have in them.
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  #404  
Old 07-29-2014, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FordFETruck View Post
Are you going to bed line the inside?

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.


That's what I did, for rustproofing. I used a gallon and sprayed it in, with a drywall texture gun on the entire floor and back wall. Took me 4 hours of non stop prepping.
I was planning on putting Dynamat in, but was also thinking of bed liner or both.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk View Post
Did you make those panel clamps yourself?
I picked the clamps up at Harbor Freight, 6$ for a set of 4. Good price and they work very well, they make life a lot easier.
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  #405  
Old 07-29-2014, 08:32 PM
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I personally would do both. I changed my mind about using herculiner on my bed so I had 1.25 gallons of it. I used a gallon on the inside for rust proofing and the quart on my rear wheel well's. I personally would do both. I need to put some good insulation in there now. As well as some carpet.
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:32 PM
 
 
 
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