Have the 226 flat 6. Noticed after about 30 min drive I have a very small amount of anti freeze coming out of the block front driver side about half way down. I have not seen any drip but clean it really well and it comes back. Must be the higher rpms on free way when its active.
My question is will this get worse, is the block trashed or can be welded. Thanks guys in advance!

 

Do a cooling system pressure test to locate leak and try a repair with JB Weld . On low pressure applications it can be quite effective .

 

I have a bud who fixed a crack between two valves on a 52 v8 flat head, he used a kit, do not know the name of it but what it does is you find the crack, drill some small holes along it,("Overlapping") these holes you thread, the kit comes with plugs that are threaded into the holes. Worked great.
Someone must know the name of this kit?

 

Tropic- it's called Lock-n-stitich. But I don't know of a way someone could buy this in a kit.

 

I believe you can buy a kit from the company. You could also google irontite. Same concept, different company.

 

On the outside of the block you may be wise to use the JB Weld, that stuff is great if the surface is super clean and it is left to set up properly, the drill and stitch would be a last resort in this case, inside the engine the stitch job is the way to go.

 

I'm not sure where he got it, but I believe it was from an auto parts, like NAPA. The name sounds familiar but could not say for sure. It saved the customers block as it looked like a show stopper when he took the head off. He told me it's a common problem with flat head v8's as the valves are so close together?? happy days

 

Acklands/Grainger sells all manner of wonderful stuff including the above 2 items

 

You may be able to help me with my 52 F6 COE fender problem, my front fenders lower and upper have a lot of rust, as COE fenders are rare, I was thinking of substituting F6 fender off a normal truck between 50 and 52, just using the lower part and the front piece off the normal fenders, they look the same. Any experience with this??

 

If you find it cant be repaired, I have 2 of these blocks here. I'm in Akron Ohio

 

This is the normal stitching pin repair procedure (below). I have a block that needs the same repair, a 3" long freeze crack above the pan rail. I was quoted $140 for a pro to repair it and some other cracks on the deck.

 

Could very well be a thin spot in the casting that has rusted though, considering the age of these blocks. These castings were known for porosity. I've seen more than one Ford tractor dry sleeve block rust through from the water jacket into the sleeve.
If it is a porosity problem, it could be as simple as drill, tap and a bolt inserted. Worst case could be a large area of the block rusted thin.
Question, did you have a sufficient antifreeze solution?

 

Horizontal cracks above the pan rail are usually freeze cracks.

 

I got the truck last week. I would have never realized it had a very small crack till I cleaned the dirt damp spot. And drove around and it came back. That's a pretty informational video def think I will be thing something just happy to here that its not trash now.

Are the flat motors typically noisy in the valve department? Specially idle? Like the lifters tapping noise it sounds like all 12 valves making same noise. Gauge oil pressure is 5-30psi. Depending on rpm. Might be time to get block machined. What do you all think. Thank you all for the good tips!

 

A flat V8 Ford in good shape is so quiet one would have to lay there hand on the fender or open the hood to know it was running.