This is my first diesel, so that goes with this "dpf" thing. I thought I was "supposed" to get a warning on the dash or something? I thought I had read that some where. And two years ago I had borrowmedva friends for a towing job from nc to oh, he had a programmer but no dpf delete. His programmer would flash red/green when it was cycling. I guess I thought it would do something with it being stock. I've put close to 300. Miles on it, and nothing. Have I not driven long enough? What makes it decide to start the process? I also think I read somewhere not to shut it off while its in this mode. I'm worried I have been? I did go under the truck and it has the dpf looking thing (haha) . So could any one clear this up for me??? Thanks

 

You DO get a warning but it only shows for about 3 seconds... Gotta be quick to see it... On the flip side you can always do a "systems check" where the digital odometer is and stuff... And if it IS in regeneration mode (cleaning the DPF) then it will show you a msg on there... I think it says ' cleaning exhaust filter '. And if it doesn't show anything about the filter then its not in regen mode... IF you are in regen mode then while in "park" and foot OFF the brake your rpm's will climb slowly to around 1200 ... Once you hit the brake it will immediately drop back down to around 600 rpm which would be normal idle... Before I deleted my DPF I was going into regen around every 100 miles... Most likely you've gone into regen and just haven't noticed it... Hoped I helped and didn't confuse you on anything
Sorry for typo's, I'm on my iPhone
-Josh

 

No, no confusion really. I didn't know the message was that quick. I guess I was expecting it to be like that programmer display. But one thing about hitting the brake when the Rpms are around 1200, does that kill the the regen?

 

It doesn't kill it... It just allows the RPM's to drop that way it's safe to shift into a gear with out grinding them or anything... If you hit the brake and then Let off the brake while still in park and still in regen mode, your rpm's will go back up until its done... The reason they go up is because it has to bring up the EGT's to like 1200 degreese (I think it's around 1200) that way it can clean out the soot in the DPF using the hot exhaust ...

 

the cleaning exhaust filter message used to display continuous then with the later flashes they (ford) took it away. I think people perhaps were complaining about the frequency of the required cleaning. In addition, they changed some programming so it tends to clean more now but for shorter periods (miles) then before.

The only time it will stay on for the duration is if you have interrupted it too many times then you will get this "Drive to clean exhaust system" or something like that. I may not be 100% on the wording. After that message is on for a bit then it will go to the cleaning exhaust system message. That will stay on under this circumstance only.

You can check the system messages as indicated above or best thing is to get a monitor to plug into the OBD port so you can see when it is cleaning.

Bottom line is you need to know so you can learn your trucks cycles to help prepare for them and to decide on a shutdown or drive it out based upon your needs.

 

In my opinion if your going to buy something to monitor it... It's a good idea, however, if your out of warranty you should use that money to buy a tuner and a DPF delete... Best money I ever spent.... You don't have to turn it into a race truck but it will help the truck out a lot... I don't think I've read one forum about somebody that deleted and tuned and ended up regreting it... The people that haven't done it either just don't care for it or are still under a warranty... Of coarse its not cheap, but I promise that DPF is gonna start to **** you off after a few months of city driving... In my case I new when I was in regen cause it wouldn't allow my boost to exceed 20 psi during regen.... Most guys never heard of that.. But that was just my experience...

 

I do plan on doing the delete and tuner. I have ?s about it, but I might be able to answer those myself by reading more on the forum. I.e, which tuner, which pipe, etc. I wento spartan website and it doesn't appear you can order them, at least online. But bk to dpf, I haven't noticed any messages, any rpm change, I've gone through the display on dash while driving, nothing. Hopefully next month I'll have the $$ to do the delete. ? Off topic, can I run red diesel in this truck?? I know its a little on the illegal side...lol

 

about the tuner:
Your gonna have to research, research, and then research some more, I chose the Spartan tuner because they specialize in power strokes. And also I like to see what my truck is doing, although it advertises that you can monitor "100's" of reading and sensors, you actually can't... the options are there but when you select them to view, nothing shows.. the important ones how ever do show. H&S is another good tuner, and it is able to shift on the fly, which means you can change tunes with a push of the button while going down the road, but I don't have any experience with it, and the same goes for the SCT Livewire... I think thats the correct name.. any who, just research, there are fourms every where on all of the diesel/powerstoke forum websites about tuners.

about the DPF Delete:
honestly I would choose how to delete your DPF base on your warranty. if you don't have a warranty I personally would suggest a down pipe back exhaust and get rid of all that junk.. however, if you have a warranty still then I would suggest only doing the DPF/CAT delete pipe, or "race pipe"... it only replaces the DPF and CAT section of the piping that way if something happens and you need to get your truck to the dealer, you can put that DPF and Cat back into the system, tune the truck back to stock, and then take it to the deal and get your warranty to cover what ever it is... average for a "race pipe" is around 120 I think? and then in my case I paid like 270 for my 4" down pipe back straight pipe... to me the cost just made more sense, and I don't have a warranty to worry about.

about the Fuel:
Red diesel? I'm guessing like farm diesel? thats what we call it in Oklahoma atleast.. any who, I'm not sure if it's safe, I've thought about running JP5 or JP8 (jet fuel: high quality diesel basically) just to see if it would work, and work better, but the sulfur contents matter, and all the other stuff matter, it's not the standard ULSD you get from the gas station. farm diesel MAY exceed or be worse then standard ULSD...

-Josh

 

Wow thanks for the input. So it only cost 270 for the full exhaust? That's decent . Yes red diesel/farm diesel, its "cheaper"/no tax. People are saying its the same as reg diesel just died red. I'll have to research that. I'm leaning towards the spartan tuner, id like to see what all is going on for the most part. Not that I want it to be a race truck, but better economy and hopefully better sounding exhaust with the dpf gone. That will change the sound correct?

 

There is some incorrect information being passed around here. Ever since a software update at the end of '07 parked regeneration has been disabled. That means no regen whatsoever when parked, foot on or off the brake. The RPMs won't rise to 1200 unless you have SEIC enabled or you do a cold start in subzero temps.

Everyone loves to talk about how much better tuners are for their trucks than stock programming and emissions controls, but I have never seen any data that indicates as such. There are some very high mileage 6.4L trucks running around with completely stock emissions components and tuning, and there are also lots of people who tuned their trucks and blown up their engines. Both are extreme examples, and I agree that most tunes don't have a high risk of engine damage. But the driveline was never designed to handle those power levels, and there is definitely a risk of transmission or driveline damage.

And lastly:

No it's not! It has a lower cetane rating and no lubricity additives whatsoever. Run this if you want to shell out $10K for a fuel system repair. See attached for more details.

 

I run the 250+ HP tune, it's capable of running 350+ but you need to up grade some stuff before running anything over 300+ other wise you'll break stuff... sound will change.. I loved the sound when it first was installed.. but now it's got a coat of soot on the inside, and it doesn't sound as good... and guys say with the spartan, the higher tunes give you the best milage... I think that I get 15 in town, but I drive it like a stole it, and then on the high way I get 19+... big gain from 12.5 on the highway before tuner and delete...

 

If your thinking of tuning Do your research and make an educated decision.

 

Of COURSE tuning makes more power. That's the point isn't it?

There are lots of folks who insist that removing the emissions equipment is the only way to get the engine to last for any real length of time. I don't agree with that, and I've seen lots of evidence that supports that. I don't need to have driven a tuned truck to know that a 600 HP truck is faster than a 350 HP one.

 

I'm a little confused on your tactics.... Feel like somebody isn't a fan of tuners.... And people have broken stuff keeping it stock... So what was accomplished other then the realization that everybody has there own opinions?


I'm tuned for every reason there is... From MPG to performance and emeasions junk gone... That's my opinion and I'm glad that I did it... I haven't broke anything because I know where the line is... People that break stuff are lush ally doing something they aren't supposed to be doing or running a higher tune that their truck isn't ready for... Just my .02

 

Not at all, I think they're great! My only issue is how many people justify them by talking about how long their engine will last while tuned, that's all. In fact the majority of my first post was attempting to correct some misinformation in this thread and had nothing to do with tuners.


I'm not an engineer, but over the years I've spoken with more than a few of them. And every one of them agrees that increasing the power output of an engine will shorten the life of drivetrain components without a doubt. Mark Kovalksy, a guy who designed transmissions for Ford for 20 years, has said this repeatedly.

You nearly accuse me of having an agenda. You're right; it's to learn, help people out, and contribute to the site that's taught me so much. If you have a beef with me because I disagree with you feel free to contact the site administrators.