Had a flathead v8 rebuilt about 20 years ago and had same oil pressure woes. Almost identical. They had turned the crank .10 under and used std size bearings. They were 'nice' and sent me a set of correct bearings, but it was too late. the crank was out of round. I had run it about a month or two prior to pulling the pan and investigating. It made no noise and ran smoothly, just had very low op. The new bearings corrected the problem, but pressure dropped off within a year. I still have the engine tucked away. 59ab. Will get the cranked turned one day and I think it will be ok. Tractor collector friend gave me a merc engine with a 4" crank, had that one rebuilt (by a different firm) and never looked back.......

 

Sounds like you've got your work cut out for you this Labor Day, Bryan!

 

Drives ya nuts dont it. I'm just remembering them flathead Chrysler prods with low oil press always camshaft bearings they get get oil first. Those sixes the oil light always flickered at a stop light. Sounds crazy but I have done before, take off the oil sender and charge it for shop air regulated about 60lbs and listen.
I had a wedge V8 Chryser marine I charged up with air and found it blew a valve lifter out you could hear the guoosh of air (how'd that happen) ???????
Another not so good idea is not to stretch by pass springs, you add washers and no amount of washers will correct bad clearances. Always typical, good pressure when cold and goes to **** when hot. Somebodys loose in there. And further inpection drain oil and drop pan then add shop air and look and listen and get soaked with oil. thats old school trick they pumped oil in the galley and watched where it squirted out, air does the same thing, called the leakdown test found in books dated in the 1930s..

 

Sorry Ross, you don't get pictures on a Friday night anymore, junior's got a date
I spent Saturday doing landlord stuff (the mess that threatened to keep me from truckstock this year.)
I spent Sunday runnin plastigage and takin pix:

Ross, here's your smushed pan pic:




I don't think that smushed corner interferes at all with suction, just not in the right place.


I yanked the pickup tube and pressure tested it (filled with water, add a little air pressure - no crack in the pickup tube.)

I put air pressure up to the pickup (installed) and looked for a OMG leak off a galley - found nothing - oil dribbled out of every journal, but none horrible spurting.

I went through the whole bottom of the engine with plastigage... main bearings were maybe within spec according to 2nd change garage
1948 Ford 226 Inline Six Engine Specs
"Bearing Clearance, Inch: .0009-.0032"

I left my notes out in the garage, but memory serves me they were
front to back .003, .003, .001, .001.

connecting rods though on the other hand ugh...
"Bearing Clearance, Inch: .000-.0025"

.003, .003, .003, .003, .005, .003....see a pattern here :P

Now here is something that has me flat out irritated and mad. Either some yoko only replaced half the connecting rod bearings, or a shop went through a rebuild and reused connecting rod bearings that "weren't too bad yet".

4 out of the 6 connecting rods had upper halves dated 52 and lower halves dated 77. (If I replace half a bearing I replace all the bearing)

1 of the main bearings was dated 52 and the rest were dated 77.



cyl #5 - the one with the lovely .005 connecting rod bearing also had too much play in the wrist pin (or at least my subjective opinion laying on my back wiggling it with the crank still between me and the piston and no gauges involved).

Last time I pulled off a couple main bearings (middle and front) I subjectively said "not bad" this time I took em all off and looked at everything.... well the last main at the back (after #6 closest to the trans) has all the babbitt metal gone and is running on copper.




If it was a "cheap to rebuild" windsor motor like a 289 or 302 I'd pull it no questions asked... the cost involved in these girls I consider talkin to Josh a little more seriously. I also consider puting a Micrometer to everything and just ordering bearings - is that a fool's shortcut though?

 

I would and have done just brg's and seals at the point you are at.
And I had no problems and better pressure.

 

I know it is easy to tell someone how to spend their money and time but if it were mine and I wanted a reliable, drive able truck I would pull the engine, evaluate said engine and go from there. That loose wrist pin could very well be trouble down the road. I would look at that crank very closely. My guess is it need a good polishing at least. If Josh has a known good engine, that may be the way to go. I've always been one to want to freshen up anything I was going to keep long term.

 

who cares about the inserts; whats the crank look like-- then go from there
looks like dirt damage on that insert, other than that,, its pretty even.

 

Chicken or egg? That rear main is furthest from the oil pump. Is it worn worse because of low pressure, or is it the cause?

From what I see on those rod bearings, I don't think the one is dated 1977. If it weren't stamped with the Ford logo, I'd say it's a Clevite 77 bearing.

How could you feel wrist pin play? If there was ANY vertical play in the pin, the engine is a goner, IMO.

It's a day's drive over to Josh's, get packed! or is it time to step up to (flat) V8 power?! He can help there, too...

 

As I recall, the babbitt on trimetal bearing shells is at least 3 thou thick, maybe as much as 10. How this bearing can be showing copper and plastigage at .001??? makes me suspect plastigage isn't telling the story here.

 

Ross, you think I can yank the 6 and put an 8 in over the labor day weekend?

 

You could for sure get it in, but exhaust, radiator, and wiring changes are involved, too. Obviously you'd need a ready-to-run V8, too. You'd have to have the mounts and such. That is what would be nice about Josh's 6'er. In and out in a day.

 

Don't forget the throttle mechanism is different and the battery location is different. Don't remember if the box is same but I doubt it. IMHO, the six is a better engine.

 

Also if you move the radiator back for an Eight then you should move the air deflector back in the hood.

For what its worth I had a 50 f1 truck for a short while that had the v8 in it with the original six battery tray so it did fit in there but then of course you have to run longer cables over to the passenger side firewall.
I forgot to mention in my ad that the v8 comes with a cherry battery box for an F-1. and the v8 throttle bracket that bolts through the firewall.

Guess I should go get these sixs checked out if somebody is contemplating a road trip, I would sure hate for it to be in vain. The sixs were good runners acording to the po's so we all know how that works right.

 

I like Bryans post and read it.I want to start simple,remove oil pump ,clean it check for worn parts,cover plate etc.Also I want to pull oil canister for oil filter,check and clean all holes,. How can I clean out my oil passages,my motor runs,it's in the truck,what do I need to disconnect to clear out oil passages?Thanks

 

See my reply on your other thread.

Is your engine obviously gunked up? Have you pulled the pan? You stand to do more harm than good trying to flush sludge out of the passages with the engine installed. Push some of it into a rod bearing and you'll have big time troubles.

But first determine if you really have a problem, with a known good mechanical gauge.