Starting a Custom 1949 Ford F1
#31
09-10-2013, 05:09 AM
#35
09-23-2013, 08:29 AM
Tuned
#36
09-23-2013, 10:56 AM
what do you get in the IRS mounting kit from 321? Or are you making your own? If they provide the pieces, they seem rather crude (square cut, as opposed to nicely curved and rounded parts). Of course, that cleanup is easy, but just curious.
How much room behind the two cross members exists for the fuel tank? Will you do a custom tank?
Good job!
Doug
How much room behind the two cross members exists for the fuel tank? Will you do a custom tank?
Good job!
Doug
#37
09-23-2013, 07:28 PM
Join Date: Jul 2013
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what do you get in the IRS mounting kit from 321? Or are you making your own? If they provide the pieces, they seem rather crude (square cut, as opposed to nicely curved and rounded parts). Of course, that cleanup is easy, but just curious.
How much room behind the two cross members exists for the fuel tank? Will you do a custom tank?
Good job!
Doug
How much room behind the two cross members exists for the fuel tank? Will you do a custom tank?
Good job!
Doug
?
#40
09-24-2013, 03:07 PM
Join Date: Jul 2013
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These have a little more curve appeal than the torque thrust, the matte black will be painted the same color as the truck with the machine lip. they are 18x9.5 outback 18x8 out front
#41
09-24-2013, 05:53 PM
Boy, those upper spring mount plates really bother me. Don't look strong enough to support the entire weight of the truck plus dynamic driving load to me. If it were mine I'd replace those small triangular gussets by bending U shaped pieces with the bend the same diameter as the outside of the spring, and with the ends of the legs the height of the frame, tapering to ~ 1.25" high at the center of the U. Place the U on top the spring plate with the legs against the frame and the bend tracing the spring location below it. Weld the U to the spring mount plate and frame. I would also plug weld a full height doubler to the inside of the frame so it extends at least 4-5 inches beyond the spring mount. Trust me, I've seen how much force is developed by driving loads.
#42
09-24-2013, 06:20 PM
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Boy, those upper spring mount plates really bother me. Don't look strong enough to support the entire weight of the truck plus dynamic driving load to me. If it were mine I'd replace those small triangular gussets by bending U shaped pieces with the bend the same diameter as the outside of the spring, and with the ends of the legs the height of the frame, tapering to ~ 1.25" high at the center of the U. Place the U on top the spring plate with the legs against the frame and the bend tracing the spring location below it. Weld the U to the spring mount plate and frame. I would also plug weld a full height doubler to the inside of the frame so it extends at least 4-5 inches beyond the spring mount. Trust me, I've seen how much force is developed by driving loads.
#44
09-24-2013, 07:58 PM
Tuned
#45
09-24-2013, 08:12 PM
Looks like 321 used 1/2" steel for their plates and has a 1" or so high reinforcing ring on the underside. Their gussets look thicker and have a stronger shape (they do not come to a point, but have height all the way to the ends which adds a great deal of strength). I wasn't talking about static loads such as carrying something in the bed, but the dynamic (moving) loads generated when the truck goes over a bump, hits a pothole or goes around a corner. I have seen several OEM spring mounts ripped out, I personally totally destroyed both OEM front swaybar mounts on my Mazda Miata. Subaru Pontiac added a reinforcing plate to the rear crossmember on the Solstice GXP ZOK when they found it was flexing under cornering load. I realize that racing adds extra stress, but normal driving add the same albit smaller loads many many more times. Racing accelerates the effects that's why the manufacturers pay so much attention to what happens in racing. Personally I'd rather overbuild by adding an extra piece of metal than risk a failure, besides it would just look better. Just a suggestion, it's your truck.