So I have another thread about my fuel problems. I found out I have a pump on my frame with a line to the front tank bypassing everything. From the pump it goes right to my carb. Going to have to fix all of that someday.

Now I have gas getting to my carb but when I turn the key nothing else happens. LIghts come on, blinker stays on which is a separate issue, no ticking, pretty much nothing happens. I have a connector through my fire wall that doesnt go to anything. One wire is cut and goes to horn button on dash and cb radio. Cant track the other two wires. I have I pic at the end. I have pics of the front and back of the fuse panel if thats helpful?

Im not sure where to start so anything would be helpful. Thanks

 

MAKE SURE THE TRUCK IS IN NEUTRAL OR PARK. Turn the key to run, and then take a small wire and jump #3 to #5 in the diagram below. What happens?

 

I have a top 5 and a bottom 5. The top on has a red cable the bottom has nothing. Whick one do I use?

 

Ok. Went to the red one and it makes a couple pop sounds then kills power to the truck

 

Ok. So it does make a pop sound twice and kills power to the whole truck. I noticed when I moved the negative battery cable the power came back on. I know that I definitely need new cables But does that explain the popping sound? Thanks

 

It is hard to hear a sound based on a written explanation.

Dave is having you bypass the ignition switch and go right to the solenoid (No. 3 to the terminal with the red/light-blue stripe); what he told you to do should result in the starter motor cranking the engine over if everything is working correctly... what he told you to do is effectively the same thing as turning the key to START but without supplying power to the fuel & ignition systems, it powers only the starter motor.

You describe a popping sound... this could be the solenoid doing its job, it also could be caused by bad connections arcing across, or any of a number of things to be honest.

Fix your battery power supply problem and then see where you're at; the plug with the cut wire likely has nothing to do with it, ignore that for right now. If you turn the key to START but the solenoid doesn't try to engage the starter motor, that could be the NSS or clutch switch.

 

I agree. I was trying to think of a way to describe it. A pop doesnt really say anything But that was the only thing I could think of.

I will definatly replace the cables. After looking at them closer I should have just replaced them to start with.

Thanks

 

Ok. Got new battery cables. Tried the bypass and it tries to start. First sign of life. You all are the best. Whats next to get this thing running?

 

Make sure key is in the run position so you'll have ignition.

Try a LITTLE starter fluid to see if you get any signs of ignition?

 

So someone ran a manual choke pull *** into the cab. I pulled that out and that changed it a bit. Any thoughts on the manual choke?

 

Put the choke at half way and IT IS ALIVE!!! Now how do I start it without my magical wire? Lol

 

If you're going to test for ignition spark with a little bit of starting fluid I'd leave the choke open or at least half open. If it catches and tries to run on staring fluid (alternate fuel source) but won't stay running then I'd next look for fuel delivery issues. Power to the file pump, fuel filter, carb getting fuel, old bad gas...

 

It's running? good news!

Let me get this straight...you saying the starter does not trigger with the key?

In normal operation when you turn the key to start the wire attached to the small terminal of the stater solenoid (relay) should have power. This triggers the relay and energizes the starter. Now you have to,figure out why the little wire isn't getting power with the key in the start position.

If it's an automatic it might be the neutral safety switch. You might try to start it in neutral and see if that makes a difference. Otherwise it could be something in the key switch or a bad connection or break in the starter signal wire.

 

Where should I start my search? I dont want to run around in circles or jump around.

Also I dont know if its linked but when I had it running I tried to go to drive and reverse but it didnt switch. It acted like it was still in park. Should I start a new thread? I made sure the emergency bake was not on. I even pushed it down and released it just to be sure.

 

If it's a C6 transmission I can tell you from experience they don't like to be low on transmission fluid. Especially when they're cold.

I'm not the best at wiring, especially without a schematic. Hopefully another member will post a wiring diagram for the start circuit.

But in the mean time;

1) Make sure the starter signal wire is connected to the correct little terminal on the starter solenoid.

2) with a test light or volt meter check and see if the starter signal wire has any power with the key all the way in start. Test this in both park and neutral and maybe wiggle the key and lock cylinder around to see that makes any difference.

Without a diagram I don't know if there are any fuses or fusible links in the circuit or how to bypass the neutral safety switch but that would also be something to consider.

I've also heard of problems with the key switch or an actuator rod in the steering column that can cause problems getting the start signal to the starter solenoid.