Newbie here but not in life and have a question that searching has been unable to answer.

I have the widowmaker wheels on a 1967 N600 and need to find safe Budd replacements. They are 6 bolt, center on the studs up front and a Rockwell F106 15,000 lb rear.

Since I have some nice 8.25-20's, the same wheel would be best. The closest I can find at the moment are used military wheels that appear be either a similar or an exact match. Does anyone know if these military wheels are acceptable as a match?

The truck is new to me but a low mile primo farm truck. Plans are to shorten the wheelbase ASAP and add a Dodge dually bed to make a cool pickup. Keep the 300 cu in six and tune a bit with manifold, intake, 390 cfm Holly, headers and prob a cam. Am thinking red paint. Also a ball for a gooseneck but the goal is cruising and car shows with some farm work.

I've been a lurker and so far this looks to be a great forum with some smart people . I'm looking forward to learning plus contributing if I can. Thanks in advance.

 

The military surplus wheels will work fine as long as your truck has the same stud piloted/ball seat type mounting as the wheels. Also you should get 6" wide ones to work best with the 8.25 x 20" tires. They will have the same 6 x 8.75" pattern. It's a pretty clean swap. Stu

 

Stu--very helpful info-thank you very much I have access to military wheels but was not sure. What is "ball seat"?

Also, I would post pictures of the truck but it seems I can only post with something like a Photobucket site and not straight from my computer as I would prefer and is easier.

 

To post straight from the computer you must be a "Supporter". Easily worth a few bucks, I think $20 iirc, for the ease of posting pics and lack of pop up ads.

"Ball seat" is just another name used to describe a stud piloted mounting. The lug nuts and wheels' mating surfaces are curved like a ball, not flat. You might also read the system described as a "Budd" mount or a "Dual Cap Nut" or "DCN" system. All mean the same thing. Stu

 

Thank you, Stu. I have read and searched many of your comments regarding big Fords and they have been very helpful. Basically, I'm building a big pickup street rod N600 just like the red one occasionally seen on these pages.

Right now I need to figure out if I should chop the frame myself or hire it out. I can do the layout, cut and weld just fine but am a little nervous rolling that big axle forward. Current thinking is now evolving from do it myself to farm it out to a frame shop.

 

That's your call. You'll find plenty of viewpoints and experiences here and on the web, but only you know your skill and confidence levels. Stu

 

Someone here just moved the axle forward and remounted it to the existing frame. Then cut off the back of the frame.

Possibly more of a hassle due to mounting issues---but I'd trust that more than a welded frame, even if it is not in the heavy load business anymore.

ymmv

 

Thank you and wise advice.

A problem I face is the frame is kicked up in the back underside of mine and I don't think I can just slide the axle forward since it would reduce axle clearance. That matters since some leafs are probably coming out of the springs. I am going to speak to a guy at a frame shop tomorrow--since he has cut many frames-and ask his advice and maybe have him do it.

I've cut other frames and a dog-leg cut and weld with a frame reinforcing plate on the back is really OK and would be plenty strong assuming good weld penetration and that plate on the back of the frame. It would be stronger than the basic frame if done right.

I sure would love to slide the axle forward but I don't think it will work.

Thank you for the reply.

 

my opinion is only that...I would have a frame shop do the deed...forward of the right side forward spring perch (rear axel) you will find the VIN for your truck...it is on the rail facing you...it is also on the bottom of the rail...might have been stamped there when rails were up side down during assembly... if a large amount of rail is removed between the rear axel an rear cab, you may have to plate or double the frame to avoid an ugly 6 side patch at the splice and to preserve your VIN... as far as your wheel situation... check your local wrecking yards and commercial tire shops.. I found many 6 on 8 inch stud piloted wheels (BUDDS) in the 22.5 tubeless variety...used on UPS vans, motor homes and med duty commercial fords into the late 80.s... the 9x22.5 is the equivalent of the 8.25x20... with these tubeless rims you can also use the metric low pro tires as well.. if you live near the east coast, PM me, I have 7 spare 22.5's

 

Thank you. I already have four nice 8.25-20's so those wheels would be my first choice. I do have access to some military wheels so that is a possibility plus a junkyard near me in Ohio is checking some Int'l wheels he has.

The 22.5 appeals to me but I can't seem to get info on them. Presumably I would have to buy new tires? I can't seem to find much for sale in 22.5 but I haven't looked all that hard. My goal is not to spend a whole bundle of money on something--unless I have to-- that will see a few hundred miles a year.

 

I have converted mine over to the 22.5's I found in a junkyard in southern ohio and run 10r 22.5s with no clearance issues on a f600 grain truck. I found it cheaper then switching the other wheels around and running the risk of pinching a tube. Mine had a mix of the widowmakers and the military style as well. It seems to handle alot better then before with the old bias ply tires.

 

I have some military wheels in private stock.. if you find them. be sure that they orig ran the 900x20 dual wheels on the deuce... some of the deuces ran 1100x20 singles and the rim is much wider and a different back space... if you mate them as duals there is not enough space and the sidewalls will chafe.. I learned this first hand on my F600... if your project is to make a big pick up truck, maybe the larger type wheel would work on the rear axel.. a single tire. no cutting or fabbing to make the wheels fit under the body.. I try to keep it simple, keep it neat...as for your 300CI motor... probably one of the best 6's out there.. don't hot rod it... it's a truck engine...car tricks don't work on trucks... use ROTELLA oil, or any oil that contains ZINC.. the new oils do not contain zinc...they will destroy a flat tappet cam in a very short time... another trick...1 qt MARVEL MYSTERY OIL when changing oil... it's very hi detergent...great for cleaning oil galleys and pass ways.. use it religiously.. every oil change.. I have been for the past 40+ yrs...last thing... I have correct AUTOLITE BF82 spark plugs for the 240/300 engines.. some still have the C3T part number on the box.. some show minor rust from sitting 20 yrs... if interested, I will do 2 bucks each plus shipping.. good luck with your project..N's are very cool... have one in our junkyard...has a 361 with a 5th over trans and a 2 sp axel.. good luck

 

AVL1955--thank you. I'm aware of the ZDDP issue and the flat tappets and took care of it with a Comp Cams additive. Do you do anything for the lead and valve seat issue?

No doubt the 300 is a truck engine with torque but is seems a better intake and exhaust manifold makes a real dyno improvement and guys that have done it seem to like the results. What can go wrong with increased breathing?

Good idea on cleaning the oil galleys. I changed the oil once so far and like clean oil and anti-freeze. I flushed the cooling system twice so far and it's still a little gunky. Plan to keep at it till it's clean.

The single tire issue is very intriguing and I wondered about that. It's worth a look.

 

I know this is a tire thread, but oil and detergent came up in a post above, I want to give a little 1st hand experience on this subject.

Clean oil passages are good.

Years ago, the dealership I worked at sold an older gent a used 1/2 ton gmc pickup. This guy was a picky old coot. Only oil he would run was Amoco 300 which was a very high detergent oil. The problem was the prior owner wasn't so picky (truck had penz sticker on windshield). Well we serviced truck, and poured in the Amoco 300, before the next oil change all the penz junk had plugged the oil pump pickup tube screen.

So if your going to use a high detergent oil additive, at the very least check under the valve cover for any nasty's.

I use seafoam myself, so Im not anti-additive, just a heads up for something to check.

 

In my search I stumbled across some 22.5's as well as some military and some Int'l wheels. The 22.5's look interesting but I have to take a look at them.
How much better do they ride? Is that truck loaded or empty? Any info helpful. Thank you.