I would appreciate some input on mods for my 03 f250. It is stock wanting to do exhaust, intake, and programmer(tuner).just need some good advise so I am not wasting money and time

 

what will you primarly use the truck for, H-power goals,budget ?

 

#1 thing to get is gauges. pyrometer to keep an eye on exhaust temps is the most important. a boost gauge is good to have too. and some people go for an aftermarket trans temp gauge.
air intake is a simple 6637 filter with cover from RiffRaff diesel.
Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts | Ford 7.3 diesel | 7.3 powerstroke | Ford Powerstroke | 7.3L Powerstroke Parts

and go with a chip over a programmer.

Clay will be able to set you up with anything you want for your truck, and has the best prices around.

 

Mainly a weekend toy. Haul a camper and atvs . Like more power without getting into motor work. Would like to be able to chang e settings for hauling, playing, and just crushing.

 

liked mentioned above with tjc, gauges before power increase,you will notice most will recommend make sure everythings healthy under the hood.4" exhaust is popular,improved intake theres options on intake, 6637 is popular with more noise if you like that,and AIS which more expensive but quieter.I did searches & did a lot of homework in this forum to get the mods to meet the exact goals I wanted.gauges ,exhaust,intake,chip will get some respectful gains [60to80hp] if thats any where close to your goals.

 

Get set up with gauges as stated above. Exhaust temp and boost are good beginners. I also recommend trans temp and fuel pressure. Isspros are common and is what I have, but there are a large variety of brands with different quality and price ranges as well as different mounting options (pillar, steering wheel, under dash, overhead, etc). You could also look into a scan gauge to monitor various on board systems, but I prefer the factory look, so isspro ev2s for me. Clay at riffraff has several options for gauges, and you can be sure that anything coming from him will have all the adapters and correct thread size etc.

As far as intakes, the napa 6637 air filter can be easily installed with a 4" piece of 4" diameter tubing and a 4" hose clamp. Just remove the stock air box and it goes right in. Clay at riffraff has the kit with everything you need, as well as a cover to keep everything looking sharp under the hood. (In case it's not obvious, we like clay, and you'll understand why if you use him).

Second option for intake is called the Ford AIS. It's high quality addition offered by ford that has a factory look. It has wonderful filtering and flow capabilities, but is probably 3-4 times the price of the 6637 setup. It is quiet though, which the 6637 is not.

Exhaust: stock is fine. Especially if you aren't adding a larger turbo or upgrading the injectors. If you want sound, a muffler delete is all you need if its legal in your state. If you insist on upgrading, go with a 4" turbo back option from a company such as MBRP (again, click riffraff in my sig and browse the exhaust section for options).

Now for quick school on tuning and calibration terminology. What you are realy changing is the computer "calibrations". People who sit down and "write" these calibrations are known as tuners. These tuners can either install their calibrations directly to your PCM (one at a time), to a programmer, which is then plugged into your obd2 port and flashes your PCM to the new calibration (takes several minutes, no switch on the fly), or onto a chip such as the TS style chip, the DP chip, or the PHP hydra. Usually chips are switch on the fly capable, and when using a chip, nothing is actually changed on the PCM, the calibrations are run directly off of the chip itself.

Personally I have used PHP calibrations and was very satisfied. I absolutely love their 60hp medium tow tune. They have a new hydra chip that is out that is supposed to be awesome. I'll be upgrading to that in the near future. You should also look at some of the other companies out there, like DP tuner, swamps, BTS, Gearhead, and others and figure out which you prefer. As far as what calibrations to pick, it all depends in what you want to do and how many positions are available. In general you will find one you like and stay in it 90% of the time, have one to tow with and another to play with. There are also "toolbox" calibrations such as quiet idle, high idle, speed limiter, rev limiter, no start, etc... That you may find handy.


Now, before you go sticking an extra 140 ponies to the rear wheels, what condition is your transmission in? It wouldn't be a bad idea to consider a hd4r100 or a BTS or John woods trans if you want it to be solid.

 

Definitely get a 6637 from Riffraff and just get a 4" from the turbo, no performance change from 4 to 5. Go Beans for your tune.

 

air intake, Gauges, 4" turbo back exhaust, Then tuner tuned by DP or PHP. you will not believe the performance power difference , you may only get 1 to 2 mile per gallon more but all can be done for around $1000 if you do the work your self.. there are a lot of helpful do it yourself instruction to be found on this site.

 

I've got the Riffraff 6637. 5" exhaust, installed when I bought it. I have 3 MaxTow gauges. The only think I don't have is a chip from Beans.

 

Fixed it for you

 

Nope going with Beans 6 position chip.

 

if i hadnt got my chip when i did i probably wouldve gone with php and tried beans and gearhead tunes.

if only i was more patient with that thing....

 

You can install beans tunes on a Php hydra. Right alongside bills tunes, Matt's tunes, Brian's tunes, and your own tunes if you are brave enough lol.

 

i really wish i wouldve gone that route, its really a smart way to go now a days, php hit the nail on the head with that one. every chip thread i see most people recommend the hydra over every other chip just because you can load other tunes on it,excluding dp.

 

This what you are talking about?

http://www.dieselsite.com/phphydramu...itionchip.aspx