Way to go Gumbel. You may win the determination and documentation award. Not that it helps pay your bill, but I went thru much of the same processes !!at the DEALER!! 2 different dealers replaced much of the unecessary stuff you did (except the intake, plus dfpe sensors, solenoid, etc) until they finally found a vac leak somewhere behind the battery. I have not yet gotten over the inability to make obdII worthwhile. I believe there is more knowledge and honesty on this forum than at a dealer. So, in effect you did as good as the dealers I have, plus you have a new intake under warranty. Be proud........

 

I picked up the Expedition today from the dealer this afternoon with its new intake manifold. Seems to be working OK. Actually it threw another code in about 5 miles, but that was because a DPFE sensor hose got kinked during the manifold install. Once that was taken care of all seems good, at least in the first 50 miles. Total turned out to be $1000. The new manifold has some improvements over the old one including a new heat shield. Mech also said the MAF was not performing well and recommended I get a new one. He had cleaned it and I had cleaned it a few weeks ago. I found a new Motorcraft MAF sensor on ebay motors for $47.50 v the $120 and up that others want. Retail is about $250 but some dealers sell at $150 plus a $75 core charge. I can't figure out why the core charge since the sensor looks like a throw-away. No core charge on the ebay MAF. Anything to help the mileage with gas at $3.10 and rising. Now to get some new rubber.... 211,800 miles and still going.

Currently
2000 EB Expedition 4WD 5.4
2005 Explorer 4WD 4.0
2005 Explorer 2WD 4.0
Previously
1958 Custom 300 352
1963 Galaxy 500 352
1987 Bronco II 4WD
and four non-Fords

 

Found this thread yesterday when I got a CEL yesterday. Went to Autozone to have codes read. System too lean both banks. After reading thru all the posts, I checked for vacuum leaks and found none. Disconnected the battery and cleaned the MAF sensor with carb cleaner. Let it dry for about an hour. CEL went away and truck runs fine, but after a little while, it idles a little rough, but still drives fine and no CEL. I hope the rough idle will fix itself(?). Hopefully the CEL won't come back.

 

The ECM has to relearn how to idle the engine since the battery was disconnected. Give it a day or two of normal driving and you should be fine.

 

Thanks alloro. I kinda thought thats what was going on.

 

It's been six months and 8000 more miles on my 2000 Expedition since my last post about the vacuum leak. The new intake manifold is working well, which means I'll probably jinx myself with this post. No codes or problems since January. I now have 219,600 miles. All the "test by replacement" I did trying to find that vacuum leak may have prevented other problems. And since my last post we bought a 2011 Expedition for my wife and I inherited the 2000. I had such good luck with the reliability of the 2000 I decided to basically buy the same truck again. 5.4, 4WD. The EBs are gone in 2011, but they were replaced by an "XLT Premium" that is the same as an EB. Although I have always liked the way the 2000 rides, the ride on the 2011 with its independent suspension is much better. The 2000 is woefully under-braked with those small front rotors and they definitely fixed that in this 2011. I just think about braking in the 2011 and it stops. It doesn't sit as tall as the 2000, but it's definitely a nice drive.

Currently
2011 XLT Prem Expedition 4WD 5.4
2000 EB Expedition 4WD 5.4
2005 Explorer 4WD 4.0
2005 Explorer 2WD 4.0
Previously
1958 Custom 300 352
1963 Galaxy 500 352
1987 Bronco II 4WD
1995 XLT Explorer 4WD 4.0

 

After 3 days, CEL is back. Truck still drives fine, no change in performance or gas mileage. Idle is still rough, though. I'm gonna have to go back through the vacuum hoses. I read about the intake manifold being a source of leaks, so I'll have to check that too

 

It was the PCV elbow at the rear just below the IAC valve. It felt fine the other day when I checked it, but today I pulled the entire hose assembly off. When I started pulling on that elbow, it fell apart. I got a $10 "help" replacement at Autozone. Took it for a "drive cycle" and its all good. Drives fine, idles fine, no CEL.

 

The part number for the heated assembly through ford is XL3Z-6C324-GA

 

Reading this thread brought back memories. Of when I first got this code. I lived in Darby, PA at the time and not one Ford dealer in DE nor lower PA had the heated lines. Had to drive up to conshohocken to get it. Ended up finding some good eat spots. Thank god for a second car,lol. Good luck to anyone that has this problem in the future.


__________________
98 5.4 Eddie 4x4 176K (soon to be 75k)
88 Stang 5.0 HO (stock for now)
95 Mazda Protege Dx 1.5L Rotory 5spd 222,252 miles (wrecked - gone but not forgotten)

 

Thanks guys I just had this problem. It was about 20 minuets after I filled up so I was thinking BAD FUEL. read the forum fix for the codes before I went and accused the gas station and the elbow was trashed. Less that 6 bucks and 20 minuets later it was fixed.
Thanks guys this forum is great.

 

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Same problem, the notorious P0171 P0174. Now, I am assuming that you already checked your vacuum lines with your mouth or a vacuum brake bleeder; making sure that your lines do not have holes in them and that they can widthstand suction. If you havn't done this; do this now! While you're at it, check hoses and other hoses connected to the intake that may just have a crack or hole aka. PVC hose, OIL cap, oil cap hose and that one going underneath your battery that even the dealer can't decide what it is or isn't. If you find a hole in the line or a crack, repair it, erase the codes drive 40 miles. If the light comes on again, continue checking the hoses and move on. I want you to know how you can distinguish the problem. I myself have been quite frustrated with these codes. Infact it has taken me one year to actually buckle down and find the issue. Like most of us with these codes, I replaced parts on this like it were a lego car. While reading more on these codes. (on a KIA website) I found myself fidling with my laptop in one hand and my OBDII in the other and I found a solution. Buy, find, or rent an OBDII scanner from your local auto parts store. Ensure it has Live Data feed software in the OBDII. Plug the OBDII in while vehicle is running; go the the Live Data feed menu screen and press enter. Next, see if you can find your short term fuel trim reading it should be as close to 0.00 as possible. (Mine was flexing from -3.61 to 7.62 that's when you know you have an issue) Once you see your trim reading scroll down to it and press enter. You will see a graph pop up like something you did in math class a thousand years ago; you will notice the graph is moving up and down, thats good, that means your vehicle is running. Now, pop your hood, get a can of Carb & Choke cleaner and spray it in and around the engine bay. Making sure you get in the tight areas around the intake manifold. If you notice a large change in the short term fuel trim graph reading (mine plumited and my vehicle almost died); around a certian area where you sprayed, you've just found your problem area. Ok. So, you found your engines bad spot. Depending on where your graph changed dramatically, I'm just going to assume it is the intake plenum gasket. Funny, what manufactures are doing these days. They're bolting plastic intakes to metal manifolds. Dumb right? Plastic heats up and expands at different tempuratures than metal, the dumb dumbs. Thus resulting in a defect later down the line; in hopes that you will bring your vehicle to the dealer. So, they can rape your wallet. I got the plastic intake off, I found just underneath that, there is a fuel rail and I just took it off aswell. When I went down to my local autopart store I got, the plenum gaskets, 8 fuel injector O-rings, some COPPER silicone HIGH HEAT, and a reverse Torqs socket to fit the head of the fuel rail bolts. Putting her back together, the fuel rail bolts need to be torqued to 11LBS and the intake nutts need to be torqued to 12 LBS. Hopeing you got the hint on the COPPER HIGH HEAT silicone. After she's back together, I drove to no-where and back and no codes, she is running like a champ. I recommend doing this first before you change the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF), Idol Air Control valve (IAC), Exhaust Gas Recirculation regulator (EGR) or the fuel pump and filter. I changed the intake plenum gaskets for around 40$ (with a military discount and an Autozone rewards card) that's a whole lot better than $1,000+ from a dealer. I hope this helps. Semper Fidelis!

 

Greetings from Vegas! and THANKS AGAIN!!!!

My girl "Bet" was not feeling well this week. I got the CEL followed by a rough idle at a stop (under power she ran pretty well). Broke out one of the best purchases at Costco ever! my ODB2 and got the 171/174 codes.

I read this forum from top to bottom and came up with a game plan. Trying the easiest first. Well, sure enough, the rear 90deg PCV boot on the manifold was blown and when I went to remove it the one on the side went as well. Popped over to Checkers and spent $17! they had a Ford replacement for the 90 but...not the side one. Looked through the ones on the rack and there was one for a Chrysler that matched....

Went back to my garage to put it in . I maneuvered the lines back where they were (they don't make this easy) and put in the new boots. Started her up .......and now she runs WORSE than before?????? Hmmmm

I reached back behind the intake manifold and realized that I put the boot over some cap? and not the actual port. I LOL'd and whent "WHEW!" put the elbow on the correct fitting and she purrs like a kitten!!


THANKS GANG!

 

If I lived in Vegas I could think of a lot better things to do with my time than read this forum from top to bottom!

Glad you got it fixed for so little.

 

I have a 97 expedition 5.4 Eddie I am getting system too lean on right bank only passengerside cyl 1-4 I have replaced all o2's mass air spark plugs intake gasket upper and lower all new injectors fuel filter fuel regulator PCV hose still getting codes 171-174 the truck runs perfect until it warms up then starts to miss!anyone have any ideas last thing to do is fuel pump my computer is telling me that fuel pressure should be 35 at idle and 45 on acceleration I'm at 29 idle and 39 on rev.so I unplug the vacuum line to the fuel regulator and fuel pressure goes to 40 at idle or rev so to me if it was a weak pump it wouldn't jump do to being weak any ideas at all??I did not replace the lower black plastic manifold itself but I smoked it no smoke from that area and sprayed 2 cans of brake cleaner down ther and did not pic nothing up on my computer.at a loss of further ideas!!