It seems the scope of my project just keeps creeping. It's been a while since I posted but I have been tinkering and spending money on my dent... Now, I could use some friendly advise from you good folks.

First a little background:

I opened the valve covers to confirm my fear that the valve seals were shot and I was correct. I found lots of bits and pieces of the old valve seals on the top of the head. So this lead to disassemble of the heads. Because the valve tips seemed pretty worn, I purchased a set of new valves (stock diameter). I thought about just putting some aluminum heads or installing larger valves but I had to restrain myself. There was evidence of a knurling job in the guides and there was not much slop so I figured I could just do a "home boy" rebuild. Well, that lead to a bunch of exhaust porting to remove the big restrictions in the exhaust port. I figured I also lightened those heavy beasts by a few pounds too. I took time to de-burr all of the casting flash and epoxy putty some of the casting defects that Ford let slide. Then it was followed by several de-greasing baths, more scrubbing and then painting with POR's 2 stage engine paint kit. I must say it looks pretty nice and will hopefully be very durable.

Since the intake was off, I peaked at the cam lobes and they looked fairly worn so a new cam was in order. With that cam, I went ahead and bought push rod guide plates. I wanted something better than the stock umbrella seals so I bought some Teflon seals. They required machining the heads to fit the seals, so a cutter and arbor had to be bought as well. I was too cheap to buy the $20 installation tool and just used a socket to tap them in. As luck would have it I busted the tops off two of these seals during installation. They fit a bit tight and there was no way to use the 'condom' that comes with the seal. I researched this subject and found that a lot of people hate these Telfon seals because they are too stiff and so I switched to metal clad Viton seals. When I removed the Teflon seals, every one of them had what looked to be a 'toenail'like shaving of wrapped around the valve tip. I'm so glad I replace all of them. The Vitons are much better (pliable) and are worth the extra $10.00 and fit the machined area I cut for the other seals. The valve slide up and down nice and easy now. While shopping, I got a bit crazy and got a Weiand Stealth intake $$, Mad Dog headers $$ which after I test fitted them sent them out for professional coating at Polydyn Coating in Houston. (Highly recommend them), a Lunati Voodoo Cam (262/268), Lifters, Springs, Locks, Retainers, Guide plates, Crane Gold Roller rockers $$, HEI type distributor, New spark plug wire, separators, K&N chrome intake, timing chain. New push rods will be ordered after I check the length. I still need a battery, an exhaust system, 3G alternator and some new hoses for my new Saginaw PS pump before it will be driven again.... but I digress.

So, it's back the top of the engine and to clean the carbon off and get it ready to paint then re-assemble and that brings us to this post.

The cylinders do not seem to have any bad ridges at the top but they don't look to pretty. But I'm thinking I should just go ahead an pull the pistons out, hone the cylinders and re-install a new set of rings or... what do you think? The pan is coming off anyways to get the rest of the valve seals and for painting.

Should I just clean the bores as best I can and re-assemble or not? Before tear down, the engine seemed to run alright except for the smoking at start up. Unfortunately I did not run a compression check but my vacuum gauge was holding steady at 18" when fully warmed and did not bounce.

If the recommendation is to hone and add new rings, what grit / tool should I get? I've seen the cheap 3 stone looking ones at harbor freight and summit and the "stick of *****"... Not sure which works best for what I want to do?

Here are some photos of the top side:





















Oops... a little corrosion

 

I would get the proper size dingle-hone (stick of *****) and give them a quick pass. Don't go too crazy, you just want to clean them up a bit.
You will have to thoroughly wash the cylinders when you are done to get all of the oil and residue off, so you will probably want to remove the crank.
Once you do that you are probably going to say "dang, I should get that crank polished up". So that means new rod and main bearings, but hey, you have already replaced everything else so it seems kind of silly to not have new bearings any way.

I hope this helps

 

No matter what your going to have to hone, there's rust in the bore. I use the 3 leg ones for jobs like this but a lot of people prefer the other hone. Make sure to check to see if the bore is out of round, since your going to have the pan off might as well check the bearings. At the end of the day the hone and new rings is worth the extra insurance. Also you need to treat the engine like a new engine if honed, due to the fact the rings need to seat.

 

and since you have the engine apart by now, you might as well just take the block to the machine shop and have them check if the bores are still round, as MikePacey mentioned, check for cracks, replace the cam bearings and freeze plugs, you know, overhaul the block. Now one thing that MAY happen is that they measure the bores and find out they need to be be bored oversize. That means new pistons.

 

As mentioned. You might as well pull the engine, have it dunked, clean out oil passages, new soft plugs, cam bearings (to go along with the new cam), Check the bore, crank etc. In other words a complete rebuild.

 

If it was me, and I was in this far I would definitely go all the way and have it bored the next size up, new pistons, and have the crank turned and install undersize bearings.

IMO, why put all the money into that you did, just to put it all on a worn bottom end. Just speaking from experience, I've done it haha, and regret it.

 

Pull block, measure and hone if possible, new bearings and gaskets, polish crank and check cam bearings.
Then you will know its good for years.

Or throw the heads on and see how it goes. Might be ok, not like its that hard to take them off again. They will still be good if you need to redo bores and pistons so no great loss to throw it back together. Much easier the second time with nice clean parts.

 

I would pull the block and have it checked for cracks especially where the head gasket blew out in between the cylinders. Mine had micro cracks there.

 

X2 on the block. You've gone that far so a couple more $$$ will be worth the investment. While it is at the machine shop get the mains aline honed good insurance.

 

Oh man!!! Sounds like scope creep and more mula! Ha ha, I knew it. Going all the way and yanking the motor is gonna cost me. It was running pretty good other than the oil getting past the guides. I thought of pulling from the beginning it but I don't have a cherry picker or an engine stand & I'm certain a bore job with new pistons and all the other related stuff won't be cheap. I guess its time to start making some calls to a machine shop to see what this extra work will run me.

 

if its down to the short block you and some buddys can lift it out. its not easy but it can be done. i dont know if any place would rent you a cherry picker.

 

there are some equipment rental places by me that rent cherry pickers so check with your local guys and see. Maybe even autozone?

Harbor Freight has one for $185 but since I don't know your budget that may be a lot.

Ask around, somebody who knows somebody may have a friend that has one that they will let you borrow.

 

If you are not willing to go the whole nine yards of a rebuild then don't even bother with a hone job. I have put them back together with the amount of work you have already done and they lasted just fine for a while. Depends on what you are looking for.
Myself, I would swap it with a decent running used motor while I sent this block and crank out to be machined. That way you know exactly what you have when you put it back in.

 

I'm afraid that will not clean up with a hone job. At least and not stay in tolerance.
Either run it or go all the way.
At least most of our other parts can transfer over to another motor.

 

Well, given the feedback, I went and bought an engine stand and I can borrow a buddy's picker. I guess I am going to pull the front clip off too since so many have said that's the way to go and given the larger tires, I don't think I would have enough reach to pull it without taking the tires off anyways.

I really hope the cylinders will clean up and I can get by with some new CI rings. The thought of getting it punched out and spending more $$ on pistons is a real wallet drainer. I still want a lift, air conditioning, paint job, redo the brakes, cross over steering, etc.... In a worse case scenario, I could yank the 460 that's sitting in my '72 Mustang, swap over some parts and keep on truck'n but I really don't want to do that unless I must.

That motor is a ~ 1981 or so Police Interceptor block I bought new from Ford parts many years ago for about $950.00 (In Anchorage Alaska) It does not have that many miles on it. I used it to swap the 429 that I had put it in from a '70 Ranchero. (My first engine swap). It probably has less than 25,000 miles on it. I was hoping to revive the Mustang some day but its just been sitting in my garage since '95. The truck is much closer to driving than is the Mustang though.

I'll keep ya'll posted on my slow developments.