I'm just going to throw this out there as an idea for a fan. On my F150 we took an electric fan out of a Crown Vic and it fit perfectly into the shroud. Not sure if it will with these or not, but might be worth a shot. It didn't pull as much air as the stock fan but as long as you weren't in 95 degree weather stuck in traffic it was fine. There must be a ton of crown vics in junk yards.
Personally, I'd put a fan on it asap. Overheating the engine seems like a really risky thing to do for $100 if you can at all avoid it. Did you put a request in the new "Parts Wanted" sticky on this site? Somebody must have one laying around somewhere.

 

I won't let the truck over heat if it gets even close to the "L" I shut it down a new fan clutch is only 120 so I might just do that but it's getting a new t-stat and cap tonight and well see what happens I've read that if the temp gets to hot it should push coolant out of the cap and it was bone dry so I'm thinking the cap might just be locked up but a t-stat is good insurance and ill see what happens I'm also going to check the rad for cold spots and make sure it's flowing right

 

You...my friend...do have a problem.

 

Ok so replaced t-stat and cap and I drove it around a little but it started to pour pretty hard so I stopped because I was either going to get to hot and end up on the side of the road in the pouring rain or the rain would keep it cooler then normal but when I was driving it around it was fine it got up the the "R" but I was in a 30 mph zone and it was after I had to wait on a train so I'm not sure if that was because it was sitting waiting on the train or because of the problem but the truck runs great no problems what so ever just this cooling problem

 

On another note where can I get the test strips that test for exhaust gases in coolant none of the parts places had them including napa

 

The drivers side of the rad is hot from the top to the bottom but the pass side is cold from top to bottom is that normal? I think I could have a clogged up rad but I'm not sure i don't want to drop 200 on a rad and it be nothing.

 

there are no test strips to test for combustion gasses in the coolant(at least none that I know of) . there is test kits that have a clear glass jar with a tapered rubber end that fits where the radiator cap goes. than you fill it with the test solution and run the truck and then pull a vacuum on the top of the test bottle. if the test fluid changes color you have a combustion leak.

 

I was under the understanding that they used the ph of the coolant some how but ok. Can anyone shed some light on the rad issue it's kind of odd?

 

My recollection is that the boiling pont of water (212 degrees) is raised 3 degrees for every psi. A 15psi radiator cap raises the water boiling temp 45 degrees. Any water at boiling temp (or more when under pressure) will instantly turn to steam when the pressure is released.

 

I'm not sure but my guess would be if one side of the radiator is cool and the other hot, your radiator is clogged.

 

Yes I know about flash boiling but the cap should not of shot off past the threads is we're I'm getting at there's no way 16 psi would shoot that cap of the threads with enough force to smack the bottom of the hood

 

That's not exactly what I wanted to hear haha figures its a lot better the a head gasket