It for 94 Fsuperduty 7.3L factory turbo.

We decided it better to convert back NONTURBO because it went though #3 engines AGAIN. Oil was BURNT Smell in short time. I can't ever trust that truck anymore to make 200 miles trips.

I looked at exhaust manifolds but not sure if I can use that for nonturbo?


I had air filter housing, oil plugs for turbo pressure line, and driver side valve cover.

 

Whaaat? For my own edification how does a turbo burn up an engine? What happened to your engine other than stinky oil?

 

First one blown up then #2 one blown up with tons of blow-by then #3 one that only been in for 2000 miles start to have some blow-by.

Problem is truck weight about 13K pounds LOADED.

 

how much blow buy are we talking about

 

Before my cousin put the turbo on it. There was ZERO ZERO blow-by. Once he put turbo on it. Right there are fairly blow-by. Problem is we had people who doesn't know how to drive and think it sport car so they basically FLOOR on gas pedal all times to moving 13K pound BRICKWAGON.

For once I am little frustrating right now. Only I want know what parts I need to convert to NONTURBO and be done with it.

 

it's pretty straight forward. Not much to change.

1. Drivers valve cover should be replaced or plug hole in it. You need to move the CDR to the intake.
2. Install non-turbo Exhaust y-pipe. (manifolds are the same)
3. Turn pump fuel back down if it was turned up.
4. Install non-turbo air cleaner.
5. Glow plug relay some times gets moved during a turbo swap. I'd leave it where ever it's at if it currently works.
6. Move the Oil pressure gage sender from the turbo to the spot on the rear of the engine. If it's already there then just plug the spot where the turbo gets oil.
7. Install CDR removed from valve cover into intake manifold. (You will need new gaskets for it as they are different on turbo)

If you need any parts I have a y-pipe, valve covers, and air cleaner from a truck as I went the other way. I did cut the y-pipe where it meets the exhaust, but an exhaust shop would get that hooked back up to the exhaust easy enough.

Sometimes simple fits the bill. Especially when you have hired drivers in there who don't seem to care.

 

i suspect you have other problems. there are plenty of people, myself included that put hundreds of thousands of miles on turboed idi's with no issues. what turbo are you running, are you running a pyro and boost guage? if so what do they read? dose it smoke hard, or never smoke at all, dose the CDR work? what are you using for replacement engines. what condition are they in. what condition is the turbo in, the turbo itself could be passing oil and just need rebuilt. my truck weighs 7k empty and i routinely pull heavy loads with it, now granted its my truck so i try to be nice to it..lol but if you think they drive it hard with a turbo charged engine wait till they drive it without

 

It Factory turbo set straight from Ford when it was brand new truck. Tons of blue smoke at idle which show me it turbo issue. CDR is work right I test and clean up.

No boost or pyro on this one. I told my cousin to get pyrometer so this week possible but I will still convert to NONTURBO for reliable reason.

#3 engine was PERFECT THERE WAS ZERO blow-by and NO smoke out exhaust. Once He put turbo now it just worn out engine after 2K miles but it had TONS OF IDLE to running electric tools in gravel plant.

For now It consider "my Truck" so I be drive MOST of time. I am tired of work on this one. It almost everyday new issues pop up related to HEAT from turbo. 7.3L Nonturbo are most reliable and last longer in my opinion.



junkkingranch

Sent you PM on Y pipe exhaust

 

blue smoke isnt a turbo problem bad valve stem seals most likly cause for blue smoke and have u ever had the motor proplery timed

 

3 quarts of oil every 150-200 miles. It doesn't smoke like that before we add turbo.

 

when u added the turbo did u upp the fuel and adjust the timing to acouping the extra air allso the turbo may need a rebuild probem is the turbo dumping oil into the intake

 

well if its heat that worrys you youll have more of it if you take the turbo off. NA engines have higher EGT's then on a properly timed and fueled turbo engine. when I bought my truck it was NA. when I turboed it I saw my fuel economy improve about 3 mpg's and my egt's went from 700's to 450-500's it sounds like the turbo just needs to be rebuilt. its probably passing oil through the turbo itself. if anything turbo chargers add to reliability if there set up and used correctly. lower egt's across the board, and the engine dosnt have to labor as hard to do the same amount of work, and you see improvements in fuel economy and at 4 dollars a gallon, that itself adds up. but its like anything else, abuse it, or neglect it and they will give you trouble ever wonder why almost every mid size to large diesel engine has a turbocharger on it these days, and has had one for some years now?

 

Something fishy here... it's a factory turbo, straight from when it was new... but you're saying a few times "as soon as we put the turbo on.." all these problems started happening. Lots of confusion in this thread, I suspect because of this contradiction...

 

Quick summary. #1 engine was FACTORY turbo BLEW UP then #2 re-manufactured engine came with turbo blew up again then this #3 used engine that was NON-TURBO until my cousin put turbo from #2 on it.


All problems start come from #1 engine to now. Exact issues. For ONCE AGAIN I just want remove turbo and be done with it.

 

so is the turbo original to the truck? or has it to been rebuilt.. also how long a day dose it idle?