brake pad replacement
#2
brake pad replacement
You don't need to break the brake hose connection/fittings. After you get the caliper off, remove the cap on the master cylinder, and use a c-clamp to push the caliper piston in far enough so that the lip is even with the housing. Replace the pads, remount the cliper assembly. Put cap back on m/cyl and pump the brake pedal, making sure master cylinder doesn't run dry, which it shouldn't.
Several pumps of the pedal should bring it back to normal. Turn the rotor by hand to make sure the calipers are releasing properly. Some drag will be normal.
[hr]
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'94 E-150 Conversion Van 4.9 / C-6 -- '89 Mustang LX 5.0
Several pumps of the pedal should bring it back to normal. Turn the rotor by hand to make sure the calipers are releasing properly. Some drag will be normal.
[hr]
#3
brake pad replacement
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 21-Jul-02 AT 03:18 PM (EST)]But unless it's not your truck, or you're selling it, why would you want to? Getting that rusty, dirty fluid out of the caliper (even for the semi-dirty fluid right behind it in the brake line) is the best way to try to avoid it seizing up later and having to buy a new caliper or two down the road.
For a minor amount of fluid bleeding I've been able to just use a gravity-bleed (open it up, let it flow and close it before it stops).
For a minor amount of fluid bleeding I've been able to just use a gravity-bleed (open it up, let it flow and close it before it stops).
#4
brake pad replacement
I read an article suggesting that when you use th c-clamp to press the caliper back in to accually crack your bleeder screw and push the fliud out it that way to push the cruddy fluid out and you still don't have to bleed them. I have never tried it but it makes sense to me, but remeber to top off the fluid level in the master cylindar.
Scott
Scott
#5
#6
brake pad replacement
There is a ONE Man brake bleeder unit for $5 at the NAPA store.
This makes bleeding the brakes pretty easy.
Also, I have seen one bleeder device that looks like a medical IV bag and tube, for one man brake bleeding.
My boys are not always home to help me (16 and 17 yrs old), so alot of my work is done "one man"...
Thanks,
Gene
This makes bleeding the brakes pretty easy.
Also, I have seen one bleeder device that looks like a medical IV bag and tube, for one man brake bleeding.
My boys are not always home to help me (16 and 17 yrs old), so alot of my work is done "one man"...
Thanks,
Gene
#7
brake pad replacement
One tip that Ifeel is worth mentioning concerning bleeding the brakes. When You pump Your pedal put a scrap piece of 2x4 laying so the 1.5 inch side is facing up layng on the floor under the brake pedal to keep You from putting the pedal all the way to the floor.After a while rust and crud builds up on the shaft of Your master cylinder just past the point where your brake travel normally stops. If You push the pedal all the way to the floor this bunch of crud will usually force it's way past the seals in the master cylinder and ruin them. I ruined 2 master cylinders by pushing the pedal all the way to the floor when bleeding them until some fella at the auto parts store told me this trick. lol. I fully agree with everyone else here that bellding the brakes is a good Idea. If You don't want to spend 5.00 just take about a foot of vaccum hose and put one end over the bleeder and the other end into a bottle with clean brake fluid in it. pump the brakes until you see no more bubbles in the fluid checking the master cylinder periodically. hope this will help.
Brad Godkin
1986 F350 XLT
CC/SRW 6.9 auto
Brad Godkin
1986 F350 XLT
CC/SRW 6.9 auto
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