hello,

I hooked up my TT in my signature below yesterday for the first time since I owned my truck. According to my tape measure, the hitch height from my 99 F150 to my 2011 F250 were close enough to not make much of a difference. I spoke with my trailer guy and he agreed but as usual got to hook up to see what happens. I am using the same WD hitch on both trucks. (tongue weight calculated at 900 pounds based on 15% of 6000 pounds wet weight)

99 F150 when coupled before the bars it was low like 2 inches of the ground in the rear. Connect the bars the truck levels out. The people I got the trailer from really had it set up correct. I knew it worked.

11 F250 coupled before bars. Major sag. Connected the bars and less sag. Adjusted the chains not a whole lot of improvement. However, the truck and trailer felt pretty good for a test ride for 26 miles worth of interstate with semis and bus passing. The F250 does have the camper package.

Upon returning he asked how it felt and I said it felt fairly level but the truck looks unlevel. (The "valley" look is going on at the hitching point.) So we both measured again and the rear is about an inch lower loaded than unloaded. The front remained relatively close like within a 1/2 inch. He added the rear will drop further once additional cargo is added to the bed and trailer. He suggested the rear end suspension needs some help either with a better set of helper springs or air bags.

I did some research on the air bags. Looks like the set for my truck are going to around $315 plus the expense of an on board compressor which adds another $230 to the price tag. Not to mention labor (i.e. my time on the ground in the driveway chewing up my knuckles, case of beer, etc.) It looks close to an all day install between the bags and the compressor placement, piping and wiring. Also the other thing I read was the location of the compressor. Where? Engine compartment? Is the frame rail really a good location being exposed to the elements? I also understand the compressor is a nice to have but not a must have feature. If no compressor, how do you fill them or when do you for that case. Where do you located the fill ports?

I also looked at a set of Hellwig helper springs LP25 or LP 35 kit for the truck. I would spend about 370 for those and they are pretty much an easier install and IIRC Helpers have a set it and forget it style of use. However, I have not found any info about them except some Toyota and Nissan truck owners using them. I know they do seem a following with the F150 crowd.

So I am just looking for some direction before I spend the money in the wrong direction.

 

I have Firestone ride rites. Been running them for a long time. I have on board air, a must for me because of various loads.
I also have an auxiliary point for airing tires.

This is the setup IMHO. I also have dual air guages so I can adjust and level uneven loads.

 

Also my compressor is right in front of my fuel tank. Does fine there

 

Hello,

Senix. Thanks for the info. I will have to check out the area around my gas tank to see if I can make it work too. Any thoughts on a clean looking cab install for the gauge?

I just got off the phone with my friend and he said with out a doubt to get a set of air bags. He also said on board air is nice but not needed as the fill ports can be located elsewhere on the truck for easy access.

 

It sucks not having onboard air. Spend the money and get the compressor kit. I've been there, done that and won't have bags without a compressor again.

 

Here is where my guages are

 

I think I would drop one more link on the WD chains BEFORE adding the air bags. Make it level prior to doing anything else. That's the purpose of the extra links!

Hard to believe that the same trailer makes the 250 sag MORE than it did on the 150!

 

I went with the Air Lift wireless controller.

 

When I first got the trailer, the installer did the customer instruction. He showed me what to do first. Then removed them and placed them in the truck. Then I had to install them myself as part of the check list protocol the dealership was using. I was told 3 links to start with. I ran 3 links for a bunch of my trips with out a problem. I was able to get 4 links from chain for my trip to Florida back in October. That helped with the driving aspects. It was a pain in the rear. Also I should mention the installed was based off a 12% wet weight or 750 for my trailer. My bars are 750 pound rated. (I know the WDH will need heavier bars when the time come.)

On the 250 I was able to get them to 4 links but there was very little change between 3 and 4. The truck still didn't look level.

As for the 150, one of the heaviest trips I ever had was a short pull into the Pocono Mountains. My truck's payload was probably close to 1500 with 3 large coolers, a 5500 watt generator, and 30 gallons of gas. Then add in the trailer which I suspected I was running a bit heavier due to a full tank of water, food, equipment for the weekend and other assorted supplies for 5 people. That was one of the only times I seen that truck squat with the load out. My "new" 250 looked like it was squatting just from an empty trailer with no bed payload or additional payload in the trailer.

My local trailer guy recommends to beef up the rear. Recouple the trailer. Get a good feel of what it is doing. Then make any needed adjustments for the hitch. I am seeing airbags could give it that little bit extra to the rear to level off the truck and give support when additional payload is introduced either added in the bed or a larger trailer.

 

I might use math to get close, but I'd much rather LOOK at what's level (use a bubble gauge - first on truck side rails then on flat part of trailer A platform) rather than using numbers! A front end high look sucks and makes steering a little TOO easy.

Don't forget, a salesman's job is to SELL!

 

So it is a new trailer and you are re using the wdh from the old one?

 

I have the same truck. I added air bags, best thing i've added to my truck. Love them. Works Great. I went with the Air Lift bags with onboard compressor. Pain in the butt to install but made a big difference towing my Fifth wheel.

 

Mr CMK, Same trailer that is in the signature. It is the same WD hitch that has been used on both trucks. The new trailer would be in a couple of years hopefully

As for the level, I didn't bust that out. Unfortunately, I live in a hilly part of New Jersey therefore I don't know what level is. Where I park my trailer, the owner is also a supply and repair shop. So I have technical advise on site when needed. The yard is level..ish. I didn't buy my trailer from them but from another dealer out of state. I had to take a 2 hour new RV owner course in which was not a problem since I am 2nd generation. The hitch part was covered not by the salesman but my the mechanic installing the WD hitch. However, I know where you are coming from BPofMD Salesman sell? Someone should tell that to the sales force at work. The ownership is thinking about reconfiguring the position to a tech/sales. That's another story.



That is the route I am thinking right now. As the compressor set up, I'm on the fence with the analog or wireless set up. The wireless is nice so you could do it from outside the truck. However, Amazon was the only place I found any user reviews and most of them complained was premature wireless manifold failure.

 

I have the Firestone RideRite with the automatic leveling. There are sensors that attach to each side of the rear axle. When the load sags, they let the compressor lift it back to level. When the load is removed, they let the air out until it's level. No wiring into the cabin. Each axle is controlled separately to account for uneven distribution and prevents the air from shifting from the low side to the high side (which makes any tilt worse). It's great! I wouldn't have a truck without it.

One note: I had to replace the pressure sensor after a year because the installation guy didn't put the air inlet to the compressor in a dry area per the directions. If you have a truck box, run the input into that.

 

The automatic leveling is about the same price, has no manifold, and works like a charm.