Need suspension/brake suggestions
#1
Need suspension/brake suggestions
So I need some advice.
Between the 300 lb bumper and the 95 lb winch i have lost an inch+ of front travel, screwed up the nice stock ride and handling (expected), increased my braking distance dramatically (wheels dont help either)... and am wreaking untold havoc on the bushings and ball joints. I looked at Fox and king coil overs, both have OEM (0"-2" lift)replacement packages and i am ok with the price tag ($1500 for the front packages) since I simply cant afford a real lift kit and subsequent install right now (everything else Im comfortable doing in my ***** gravel driveway, except a 6" lift on my truck for my own unexplainable reasons).
Do i have any other options that might be a better or equal fix for less $$? I would like to save up for a $5000-7500 suspension lift and upgrade. (maybe this is unnecessary, but i do want more travel if im going to lift it... I think doing it without inproving suspension performance is dumb). So saving money on this fix is a good idea, but this fix needs to last a couple years while i save up. I dont have to lift the truck, just always wanted to do it and never had a truly lifted truck. If someone who knows a lot about suspensions chimes in and tells me i can lift it cheaper while improving travel with a kit that will absorb the extra weight up front as well... Im all ears!
Also, brakes... cross drilled, slotted rotors... i know the difference in appearance but not in practice. Do i need them or are they there just to look cool on little blue subarus with coffee can mufflers? Pads? Should I upgrade the calipers? Im not racing the truck, and given that it was intended to haul some weight I assume the calipers can absorb the extra heft if i just had something better for them to grab and grab with.
All feedback is helpful... just keep in mind that i dont want to cut corners, my intention is to show this thing after its worth showing...
(As an aside, anyone on here who has line-x'ed an entire truck? I would love to know how it looks after a few years)
Between the 300 lb bumper and the 95 lb winch i have lost an inch+ of front travel, screwed up the nice stock ride and handling (expected), increased my braking distance dramatically (wheels dont help either)... and am wreaking untold havoc on the bushings and ball joints. I looked at Fox and king coil overs, both have OEM (0"-2" lift)replacement packages and i am ok with the price tag ($1500 for the front packages) since I simply cant afford a real lift kit and subsequent install right now (everything else Im comfortable doing in my ***** gravel driveway, except a 6" lift on my truck for my own unexplainable reasons).
Do i have any other options that might be a better or equal fix for less $$? I would like to save up for a $5000-7500 suspension lift and upgrade. (maybe this is unnecessary, but i do want more travel if im going to lift it... I think doing it without inproving suspension performance is dumb). So saving money on this fix is a good idea, but this fix needs to last a couple years while i save up. I dont have to lift the truck, just always wanted to do it and never had a truly lifted truck. If someone who knows a lot about suspensions chimes in and tells me i can lift it cheaper while improving travel with a kit that will absorb the extra weight up front as well... Im all ears!
Also, brakes... cross drilled, slotted rotors... i know the difference in appearance but not in practice. Do i need them or are they there just to look cool on little blue subarus with coffee can mufflers? Pads? Should I upgrade the calipers? Im not racing the truck, and given that it was intended to haul some weight I assume the calipers can absorb the extra heft if i just had something better for them to grab and grab with.
All feedback is helpful... just keep in mind that i dont want to cut corners, my intention is to show this thing after its worth showing...
(As an aside, anyone on here who has line-x'ed an entire truck? I would love to know how it looks after a few years)
#2
The top notch rotors are going to be reybestos waved sloted rotors.
Rock auto has them.
And napa but it is under a different name.
You are not going to find a better rotor than the rebestos. Im sure you can find an equivelant, but not better.
I have autozone Gold SD pads on my F-350 and they have never given me a problem with heavy breaking.
And I suggest flushing the system to a DOT4, or a DOT4/DOT3 break fluid.
Rock auto has them.
And napa but it is under a different name.
You are not going to find a better rotor than the rebestos. Im sure you can find an equivelant, but not better.
I have autozone Gold SD pads on my F-350 and they have never given me a problem with heavy breaking.
And I suggest flushing the system to a DOT4, or a DOT4/DOT3 break fluid.
#3
This is the ultimate break KIT. not a pa and rotor replacement. Full break replacement. you need bigger rims.
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...0-%204%20X%202
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...0-%204%20X%202
#4
That is a pricey brake upgrade but it will increase your stopping power. The only way to get a substantial increase in braking power is to use a larger diameter rotor and a larger caliper for more pad/rotor contact surface.
Your decrease in braking efficiency is due to your larger tires...the 400 extra lbs for the bumper and winch shouldn't make very much difference.
Your decrease in braking efficiency is due to your larger tires...the 400 extra lbs for the bumper and winch shouldn't make very much difference.
#5
Don't get me wrong, the front end isnt bouncing or even close to worn out yet, i just don't like the way it feels when stopping vs. when I had just the heavy tires with OEM wheels and OEM bumpers... and i notice it getting slightly worse over time/use.
I have seen that Wildwood kit in past online dreaming... was afraid someone was going to call that out as what I should have, for two reasons. Money, damn that's some bread for a brake job. I also don't want 20"+ rims if i don't have to. i do still use this off-road for side work, chores, hunting, and play and would have to go with 35"+ tires to keep enough rubber to protect the rims from rocks and other crap, for example i already took a chunk outta these 18"s and had to replace two rims...
More tire would mean i need to lift to keep wheel clearance acceptable when suspension is compressed and/or making a hard turn.
The OD on the current tires (LT275/70 R18 Nitto Trail Grapplers) is 33.4" according to Nitto website and they clear well, but i dont see another 1.5" fitting.
Basically, that Wildwood package and resulting rims/tires/lift is the ultimate goal... but starting with the brakes might break me too quick. I think Ill check out the reybestos rotors and better pads for now. Ill find a way to stiffen the front, maybe just upgrade the coilovers to something better or install that extended urethane bump stop replacement that works like an inflated airbag (sort of) for the front until i can get the whole brake/wheels/suspension package.
#6
Getting Urethane for the stering and suspension will help.
Here are some cheaper prices.
$2,420
Wilwood 140-9072-R TC6R Front Kit,16.00", Red
$2,494
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-140-9072-r
$2,494
Wilwood 140-9072-R Wilwood TC6R Big Brake Truck Front Brake Kit
Lets say the rotors are $200 each ($800), $200 for all of the pads, and $200 for each caliper ($800).
That is $1,800 and it is listed for $2,400+....
I agree, that is very, very expensive.... But it is the ultimate break kit for the truck.
The Raybestos S groved R-300 series rotors are ~$100 for the rear. I cant find the front but NAPA has both r-300 listings for about $40 more.
Here are some cheaper prices.
$2,420
Wilwood 140-9072-R TC6R Front Kit,16.00", Red
$2,494
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-140-9072-r
$2,494
Wilwood 140-9072-R Wilwood TC6R Big Brake Truck Front Brake Kit
Lets say the rotors are $200 each ($800), $200 for all of the pads, and $200 for each caliper ($800).
That is $1,800 and it is listed for $2,400+....
I agree, that is very, very expensive.... But it is the ultimate break kit for the truck.
The Raybestos S groved R-300 series rotors are ~$100 for the rear. I cant find the front but NAPA has both r-300 listings for about $40 more.
#7
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#8
I politely don't agree that the only way to make it stop faster is by getting stickier tires...that would only be true if the truck was locking up the wheels because the braking power is out doing the amount of traction available.
TEAM HARD -
I understand not wanting to go to 20" wheels, I didn't get that option when I bought my FX4 because of the limited tire sizes available. Who wants a 55 series sidewall for off road use?
I like those wheels you have...who made them?
#9
Exactly and with all due respects how is $2600 brake kit going to help?
#10
The 20" Pirelli ATRs aren't very capable offroad anyway. They are supposed to be an all terrain, but they are more of a street tire.
#11
#12
I think these guys are on the money with the brake package... the tires i have stick better than the OEM tires by a long shot, so tires aint the problem. Also, not going to get stuck in the sand and mud cause i have street truck tires on my truck.
#13
I don't know what some brake fade is, in my experience you either had it or not, there was not much in-between. Although I never tried it I would guess it would take numerous high speed panic stops to over heat F150's discs.
#14
If you want some extra room to clear larger tires and help out the stance then have a look Mcgaughys suspension. I have their 6.5" lift on my truck and I love it. Cost was about 1600 and I installed it myself. I have almost 20k miles with the lift installed and zero issues. And they have great customer service.
#15
What exactly is your experience? First suggesting that upgrading to a high performance, larger diameter braking system would NOT help me stop sooner. Suggesting that I need "stickier" tires, when my truck is clearly being set up for off road use. Then suggesting that brake fade only occurs at a catastrophic level or not at all. Then there is your last statement in your post, which i cannot tell if it is directed at me or is just a random, wandering, pointless speculation on someone driving like a goon.
Im not trying to flame you, but my retard buffer is full up, I'm running low on tolerance and my give a damn is fresh out. So please start making sense, I want to talk to people who know about what I'm doing.