Where to start?
#16
When i posted i was not a "real mechanic" i did not mean i have no idea. I have worked on vehicals my whole life. Pulled motors, Put them in as well as transmisions. Have rebuilt smaller engines. I'm what i guess you call a shade tree mechanic. When i said it i meant along the lines as like i cant walk up to a vehical and tell u what engine is in it or size transmision that kinda thing. Gary i do take your reply to heart, I am beginning to wonder if i want to or can attempt it or not. I'll wait and hear what is said after the pictures have been viewed. Thanks
#18
Hey Because,
On a positive note - It's not a bad looking start. Your cab appears to be in very good shape, your doors look solid, You've got glass, no holes in the floor, etc.
The front "camaro" frame graft would worry me - if you can show some pics of where it hooks up to your existing F1 frame folks can tell you if it looks ok. The previous owner did some things to the front bumper - not sure about that one but there may be a perfectly good bumper under there somewhere.
If the graft looks odd - you can find a good solid F1 frame for not
too much - there are quite a few still laying around.
Good luck over there. Don't get discouraged.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
On a positive note - It's not a bad looking start. Your cab appears to be in very good shape, your doors look solid, You've got glass, no holes in the floor, etc.
The front "camaro" frame graft would worry me - if you can show some pics of where it hooks up to your existing F1 frame folks can tell you if it looks ok. The previous owner did some things to the front bumper - not sure about that one but there may be a perfectly good bumper under there somewhere.
If the graft looks odd - you can find a good solid F1 frame for not
too much - there are quite a few still laying around.
Good luck over there. Don't get discouraged.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
#20
I just looked at the photo's you posted and the truck body, cab, clip. and bed all look great from what I could see.
I also think that the front suspension graft is from some other car than a vet, the A arms are way different from most vet's.
If you can find a stamped part number on one of the A arms you can call any GM dealer and find out what it came from within a year or two.
I think from what I see, is that you can get it up and running, but the bad news is that it appears from the photo's that the section of the frame that had the original stamped vin number has been hacked out during the graft which may become a major DMV hassle.
However,,,if you have clear title on it, get it registered and keep it that way, it is very unlikely that the DMV will ever want to do a visual verification.
I also think that the front suspension graft is from some other car than a vet, the A arms are way different from most vet's.
If you can find a stamped part number on one of the A arms you can call any GM dealer and find out what it came from within a year or two.
I think from what I see, is that you can get it up and running, but the bad news is that it appears from the photo's that the section of the frame that had the original stamped vin number has been hacked out during the graft which may become a major DMV hassle.
However,,,if you have clear title on it, get it registered and keep it that way, it is very unlikely that the DMV will ever want to do a visual verification.
#22
I agree with the others, Camaro or Mid 70's Nova's used that front clip. Steering wheel also off a Camaro.
How well did the PO mated the two sections together and does it look like it would hold up? If your not sure I would look into have someone look at it. I was looking into doing that to mine years ago but decided against it just because of the way it had to be hooked up. I went to an old Dodge Dakota frame graft instead. Good luck with your new toy!
Ron
How well did the PO mated the two sections together and does it look like it would hold up? If your not sure I would look into have someone look at it. I was looking into doing that to mine years ago but decided against it just because of the way it had to be hooked up. I went to an old Dodge Dakota frame graft instead. Good luck with your new toy!
Ron
#23
More Pictures
Here are More Pics that might help. Yes i have a clear title. The previous owner filed for a lost title. I should get it switched over asap i guess. Where the frames are welded together looks pretty solid to me but your opinions would be more acurate than mine. There is no front bumper. The fiberglass front clip is attatched to a piece of flat iron that is hooked to hinges on the frame. the original grill is attached inside the front clip.Also, The Tranny support bracket is original i take it? So would it be easier to adapt Ford motor mounts to the Checy frame or a Chevy tranny to the Ford frame? if that makes any sense. I'm trying to gather as much imput as i can before deciding on my plan of attack. Thanks guys
http://i1335.photobucket.com/albums/...ps55dff320.jpg
http://i1335.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4c948bcb.jpg
http://i1335.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4bb68dbc.jpg
http://i1335.photobucket.com/albums/...psbc3ce93d.jpg
http://i1335.photobucket.com/albums/...ps55dff320.jpg
http://i1335.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4c948bcb.jpg
http://i1335.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4bb68dbc.jpg
http://i1335.photobucket.com/albums/...psbc3ce93d.jpg
#24
That is a rather "unique" chassis. The rear is a corvette IFS, but it looks like it is just sitting there. I don't see any attachment or spring(s) I have no idea why the PO left the rear section of the front clip on it and built the "supports" between the two frames??? The tranny crossmember is ??? (likely GM). There are unattached bits and pieces everywhere. If someone brought that truck to me to fix, I would snicker, turn around and walk away very quickly. IMHO that chassis is not safe and not worth trying to make safe. Looking at the workmanship, I really wonder what is hidden under the paint on the body. I know that the assessment is harsh, but better to put the truth up front than to give false hope and have you waste money on it. This is a perfect example of why not to attempt a frame swap without a lot of experience.
If you really want to attempt to make a drivable truck out of this hot mess, I would suggest finding an original frame (or better yet, a complete parts vehicle) with a title for that chassis and swap over the sheet metal.
Good luck with it.
If you really want to attempt to make a drivable truck out of this hot mess, I would suggest finding an original frame (or better yet, a complete parts vehicle) with a title for that chassis and swap over the sheet metal.
Good luck with it.
#25
Axracer, I do apreciate the harsh truth. Trust me, i dont want to waiste money either. If you look closely at the picture taken from underneith the front towards the back you can see the single leaf spring going across the rear of the rearend also 2 stability arms (or whatever you want to call them) connecting to both sides same as the leaf spring. And in other picture 2 arms attached in the front of the rearend. I can jump in the back of truck and it has the same give as any other vehicle. I also don't see where the front clip and the back click are connected in the middle. Appears to me as just that front clip is attached to the rest of the frame and the rearend was adapted to fit that frame.I am by no means questioning you just letting you know what i see. Thanks
#26
Hey Because,
Hmmmm.. I'm not sure where you are in Texas. But if you have $250 - here is a complete 1951 Ford F1 chassis outside San Antonio. You spend a weekend retrieving this one & you are in business & we don't need to diagnose your current hacked up frame too much. I'd hate to see you put money in that current set up & then find out it crabwalks down the highway or can't be aligned, etc.
1951 ford f1
Good luck over there. Just as a point of interest your solid cab is probably worth $600 - $800 so that's a good starting point for you.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Hmmmm.. I'm not sure where you are in Texas. But if you have $250 - here is a complete 1951 Ford F1 chassis outside San Antonio. You spend a weekend retrieving this one & you are in business & we don't need to diagnose your current hacked up frame too much. I'd hate to see you put money in that current set up & then find out it crabwalks down the highway or can't be aligned, etc.
1951 ford f1
Good luck over there. Just as a point of interest your solid cab is probably worth $600 - $800 so that's a good starting point for you.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
#27
Hello ben I am very interested. I live in east texas but my son-in-law is working down close to laredo. I might can get him to swing by and get it? is it just the frame itsself or does it have any suspesion parts left on it? i don't know if we can talk 1 on 1 on this site or not but here is my email buckshot70@windstream.net. What town are you in?
I just talked to him. he is in a town called Cotulla..any where close to you?
I just talked to him. he is in a town called Cotulla..any where close to you?
#28
Hey Because,
This '51 chassis is in Floresville - that's just East of San Antonio - (90) miles from Cotula. I'm not the seller - just trying to help out. Shoot the seller a note & see what you think. I believe it's a complete original chassis with suspension.
I think the question for this group - Will a '51 chassis work for your cab
& bed?
Good luck over there. I'm up in Austin.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD).
This '51 chassis is in Floresville - that's just East of San Antonio - (90) miles from Cotula. I'm not the seller - just trying to help out. Shoot the seller a note & see what you think. I believe it's a complete original chassis with suspension.
I think the question for this group - Will a '51 chassis work for your cab
& bed?
Good luck over there. I'm up in Austin.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1 (351W/AOD).
#29
Well i was to late. its sold..Guess its back to disecting my truck...Here is my plan..i know a guy here in town that does alignment..I'll Make sure he can align it up..from looking at it i think he could..if he says so i guess i'll go with a chevy motor and tranny but spend as little as i have to.
#30
Becauseican, I have a question. It looks like, in the one picture taken from the side of the truck, that the rear wheel is not centered in the fenders. Like it is too far forward. Is that just an optical illusion? If it is centered and the welds look good, and the alignment expert you know gives you the thumbs up, why not? It may be fine, and certainly one of a kind! It is not easy to tell what ills it may have from pictures - even to the point of not being able to see the rear springs. There are certainly some experts on here and one of them is Ax, but I would make the decision based on those who actually see it in person like your alignment expert.