OK, so since you have a working motor on all speeds, it says that the motor, resistor pack & wiring to it are ok.

Power Relay contact #5 shows to be the fused 40 amp Black/Light Green B+ power feed, from the under hood power distribution box to the power relay.

Power Relay contact #3 shows to be the switched 12 volt B+ power output voltage feed contact, going from the power relay to the blower motor on the Pink/White lead.

So it sounds like the relay power contacts are working when you go to KOEO & use the jumper wire, IF your making contact at the relay #3 contact. If your getting the 12 volts from the relay solenoid power feed, you could be confusing things.

SO, you need to pay attention to the color code of the wires your jumper wire is on. You should Not use contact 1 or 2, as they're for the power relay solenoid windings, which is the electromagnetic switch that operates/opens & closes the power relay switched contacts, #3 & #5., which feed power to the blower motor.

SO, right now I'm not clear if these contacts are ok or not, because I'm not clear which contacts you were using the jumper on. Look closely at the power relay wire contacts with some magnification, to note any molded in contact numbers. OR make note of where the above color coded wires go.

 

ok first of all the relay is in a box all its own and not in the main power dist box and although it is using a 5 pin relay there are only 4 spots with wires in this relay box so your confusing the heck out of me pawpaw and i can not see the color of the wires as they are under this box that is under the air filter housing behind passenger side headlight next to the radiator and the diagram i was trying to make didn't come out proper cause it kept setting everything to the left margin of page also using jumper inplace of relay but it works even put a used motor in today as my plastic cage had some broken/damaged fins tried with relay and nothing jumper wire works great

 

No need to be confused. Contacts 3 & 5 are the switched contacts that feed power to the blower motor. Contacts I & 2 are the power relay solenoid winding contacts. Think of the solenoids 1 & 2 connections as an electrically operated on/off switch that's used to close the contacts between 3 & 5, to switch power to the blower motor on, so it'll run. So you have 4 wires, 1&2 for the solenoid/electromagnet switch, 3&5 for the blower motor switched contacts. #4 spot isn't used.

What happens if you jumper between 3 & 5????

Since you say the previous owner had the power relay replaced, I suppose its possible he may have used the wrong relay configuration, such that its internal wiring isn't right for the electrical connector????

Your real close to finding the problem.

 

if you look back at the diagram i tried to make basically i have one pin that goes horizontal and the other 3 are vertical with no wire in center only one wire is hot with test light with ignition on i blew a few fuses figuring out what one made it run but it was the far right terminal i will try to get a pic of it tomorrow and see if i can post it or msg it to you as i am having hard time explaining it and maybe it will clear things up a bit i hope

 

i can't seem to post a picture of it

 

OK, at KOEO, two of those wires should have voltage on them. When your helper goes to KOEO, do you hear the relay "click" as its contacts close????

 

You could use a hoasting site like Photobucket, ect, then post a link to the picture.

 

 

 

hope these images help

 

Are we supposed to be looking at the socket that has the jumper wire on it???? If so, Two of those contacts should have 12 volts to chassis ground on them at KOEO.
Again, do you hear the relay "click" when you go to KOEO & the dash controls are set so the circulating fan is supposed to run????

Remove the jumper wire so we can get a better look at the sockets.

 

not sure my friend was listening i will have to check again

 

Two of those relay contacts should have +12 volts power to them at KOEO. So remove the jumper wire & use your 12 volt test lamp or multimeter set to the 20 volt DC range to see if those contacts have power to them. The 12 volt test lamp should light up when one lead is on the hot wire & the other in on a good clean unpainted body or engine metal part, or your multimeter should read battery voltage between the hot connector & ground.

If the relay solenoid doesn't click at KOEO, when the dash settings are adjusted for the blower motor to run, something is likely wrong with it, or the wiring to it.

I think your about to find the problem.

 

don't have multi meter and i will have to borrow a light again last time i checked it only one terminal had power

 

i did find that the jumper wire is bypassing the 40 amp fuse in the main power dist box also is KOEO key on engine off or on?