Banks Torque Tube headers V-10 install w/pics
#76
#77
Good luck and keep us posted, there is always something different with every install and something new to learn from! And we LOVE pictures!!!
#78
I drilled with right hand bits first. The studs turned further into the head. Then we cut the end (the tapered part) off a tap, and used it to clean the first few threads out. Then we used the left hand bit. Some required going back and forth a few times with left and right bits. Our studs seemed stuck worse right at the edge of the head. Good luck if you're not done already.
#79
Header failure?
I haven't been over here in awhile, but Thursday we left with boat in tow, and as we left the house a light rattle exploded into a full blown exhaust leak. I havnot been able to see exactly where, but seems to be the collector tubes. My Ex came from NJ, so it has had rust issues. Has anyone else with headers seen this? It still could be a manifold gasket... Gotta look more tomorrow, since we were out all weekend. What do you all think?
Garry in Kodiak, AK
Garry in Kodiak, AK
#80
This large one sheilds the left end link as well as the fuel lines and some wiring.
Here it is in place.
The included instructions are pretty good, they could use one or two more illustrated figures but overall the text explains the steps well. My kit had all the needed hardware plus a few extra nuts, bolts and washers. I substituted the supplied zinc plated bolts with stainless that I had on hand. I also used Never-Seize on every bolt handled.
I'll have more shortly, time to do some work stuff now.
Here it is in place.
The included instructions are pretty good, they could use one or two more illustrated figures but overall the text explains the steps well. My kit had all the needed hardware plus a few extra nuts, bolts and washers. I substituted the supplied zinc plated bolts with stainless that I had on hand. I also used Never-Seize on every bolt handled.
I'll have more shortly, time to do some work stuff now.
Tom, how did you install the bracket for the large heat shield? I'm working on installing the heat shield right now, but can't figure out how the small bracket is supposed to be installed behind it by the sway bar link. Did you drill a hole in the frame?
#81
#82
At least you've got the hard work done!
#83
Good luck!
#84
I haven't been over here in awhile, but Thursday we left with boat in tow, and as we left the house a light rattle exploded into a full blown exhaust leak. I havnot been able to see exactly where, but seems to be the collector tubes. My Ex came from NJ, so it has had rust issues. Has anyone else with headers seen this? It still could be a manifold gasket... Gotta look more tomorrow, since we were out all weekend. What do you all think?
Garry in Kodiak, AK
Garry in Kodiak, AK
Sounds like either a gasket failed or worst case a cracked primary at the collector, hope it's just a gasket and an easy fix for you.
Out in the boat off Kodiak Island in the last week of October!
#85
Thanks again to Tom and Christina! Your threads made my install so much easier. Anyone putting the Banks headers on should read them both, along with any other old threads you can find. It will make your life MUCH easier. At one point (the heat shields) I almost took my laptop under the EX.
#86
Thanks again to Tom and Christina! Your threads made my install so much easier. Anyone putting the Banks headers on should read them both, along with any other old threads you can find. It will make your life MUCH easier. At one point (the heat shields) I almost took my laptop under the EX.
#87
I haven't been over here in awhile, but Thursday we left with boat in tow, and as we left the house a light rattle exploded into a full blown exhaust leak. I havnot been able to see exactly where, but seems to be the collector tubes. My Ex came from NJ, so it has had rust issues. Has anyone else with headers seen this? It still could be a manifold gasket... Gotta look more tomorrow, since we were out all weekend. What do you all think?
Garry in Kodiak, AK
Garry in Kodiak, AK
You should be able to narrow down whether it's at the collector or further up by opening the hood and listening for the leak. A cheap stethoscope will allow you to hear where the sound is coming from. You can try to use your hand as a sound shield to isolate where the noise is coming from.
Header and collector bolts usually should be rechecked after a break in period due to the heating/cooling cycles. Especially if the bolts were put in dry (no antisieze or loctite depending on application).
Coated headers should last the lifetime of an engine. Uncoated headers can rust through over time. That's why cheap headers are cheap, they usually are thin wall tube and no coating. Thicker wall tubing and coatings are worth the money.
I appreciate this thread greatly even though I may never put headers on my Ex. I wonder if that T was reworked how much of a difference it would make as that's a huge restriction to even a stock system!
#88
There are aftermarket Y-pipes available, they do let the engine exhale better but some users have reported they get some exhaust flutter with them, that crazy factory T-pipe was Ford's way of fighting the flutter noise.
#89
You should be able to narrow down whether it's at the collector or further up by opening the hood and listening for the leak. A cheap stethoscope will allow you to hear where the sound is coming from. You can try to use your hand as a sound shield to isolate where the noise is coming from.
Header and collector bolts usually should be rechecked after a break in period due to the heating/cooling cycles. Especially if the bolts were put in dry (no antisieze or loctite depending on application).
Coated headers should last the lifetime of an engine. Uncoated headers can rust through over time. That's why cheap headers are cheap, they usually are thin wall tube and no coating. Thicker wall tubing and coatings are worth the money.
I appreciate this thread greatly even though I may never put headers on my Ex. I wonder if that T was reworked how much of a difference it would make as that's a huge restriction to even a stock system!
Header and collector bolts usually should be rechecked after a break in period due to the heating/cooling cycles. Especially if the bolts were put in dry (no antisieze or loctite depending on application).
Coated headers should last the lifetime of an engine. Uncoated headers can rust through over time. That's why cheap headers are cheap, they usually are thin wall tube and no coating. Thicker wall tubing and coatings are worth the money.
I appreciate this thread greatly even though I may never put headers on my Ex. I wonder if that T was reworked how much of a difference it would make as that's a huge restriction to even a stock system!
Any other ideas???
Garry in Kodiak.
#90