My 1970 F100 Flareside (Pic Heavy)
#106
#107
I know guys. It all depends on the $$ as to what gets done. I also want to get it done before we start seeing 100+ degree days. Some things might just happen to fail while the motor is in process of all this. I think we all know we have a budget but there are those parts that just "oops, it broke". I try to keep a contingency fund for such things. The move has really drained the bank account so I am not sure when this will happen. I have the gaskets but still need the fluids and a few odds and ends. I don't want to pull it until I can complete it. I need it drivable, so can't have it down for long.
#109
#110
Thanks for the comments and interest in my little build. I am waiting on more funds to get everything I need for the rest of the parts and possible head work I am looking at.
I would love to have a Carter YFA that has not been as abused as my current one. I will PM you and see if something can be worked out. Thanks so much for offering it up.
I would love to have a Carter YFA that has not been as abused as my current one. I will PM you and see if something can be worked out. Thanks so much for offering it up.
#111
#113
What? You tryin' to get me and my girlfriend married by Elvis?
All kidding aside I appreciate you asking. It might just be arranged sometime soon. Summer is my Girlfriend's business' slow season. So we will be more free. HMMM. Have to look in to this..........
All kidding aside I appreciate you asking. It might just be arranged sometime soon. Summer is my Girlfriend's business' slow season. So we will be more free. HMMM. Have to look in to this..........
#114
Well, I have made almost no progress on my truck. Luckily it is a driver and not a torn down project, so I get to enjoy it. Even with temps over 100 I still love to drive it around for errands. One day I hope to get A/C put in. I was at the local Pick-A-Part with a friend I was helping with his wife's Honda. They had a 70 LWB 4x2 that was mostly still intact. I grabbed the long hood trim, the emblem nuts, and the dash brake light assembly. My friend paid for it since I am still broke. To top things off in my financial department, my compressor died. The equivalent compressor is $400 from harbor freight. I will have to settle for something a little less at about $200.
Well here is the good stuff, a pick of the new trim piece and hood emblems installed.
Well here is the good stuff, a pick of the new trim piece and hood emblems installed.
#115
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: **** hole San Jose ca.
Posts: 7,592
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Hit C/List for garage sales & the auto parts pages for guy the need to sell there stuff fast to pay the rent or just need it gone sales. Sometime ya get some great deals the money is tight.
Ok here ya go $200 buckshttp://lasvegas.craigslist.org/pts/4491254303.html
orich
Ok here ya go $200 buckshttp://lasvegas.craigslist.org/pts/4491254303.html
orich
#116
Thanks for looking out but the SCFI is to low at 90 PSI for proper use of air tools. I have found one at HF that is $180 with a better SCFI rating at 90 psi. It is also a vertical 20-21 gal tank. Compressor I am considering
#117
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: **** hole San Jose ca.
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I've found most air tools are a waste of electricity. Other then a paint spraying & Air chisel. Electric tools out preform air tools. One you got a wait for it to fill with air then the compressor runs while using air tools. I've been their done that then realized they are very inefficient for the most part. Any type of grinders and die grinders all can be done by a 120v tool. Now running a sand blaster no way around that.
Today tools electrical tool have it over 80+ yr old type of air shop tools.
Remember a shops ran air jacks, vehicle lift racks and so on. Then a good reason to have a larger compressor..
my 2cents
Orich
If your going to be painting the you need a low psi high volume gun.
Today tools electrical tool have it over 80+ yr old type of air shop tools.
Remember a shops ran air jacks, vehicle lift racks and so on. Then a good reason to have a larger compressor..
my 2cents
Orich
If your going to be painting the you need a low psi high volume gun.
#118
#119
Wow, hard to believe it has been about 6 months since I have made any updates to this thread.
Truck was out of service for about a month due to needing a clutch. It took me a bit to get the $ for everything I wanted to replace while it was apart. I did the clutch rod and equalizer bushings, floor clutch rod boot, exhaust flange gasket, and valve cover gasket.
I decided to use the diaphragm type pressure plate over the stiffer arm style. That took a bit to get used to how the pedal felt. Drives great though.
Today I have finally replaced the dry rotted tires and stock wheels with new tires and rims from a 97-98 F150.
Here is how it looks now
Next is shocks, radius arm bushings, full brake rebuild, carpet, dynomat patches, POR15 the floor pans, door and window seals.
I wanted a full front to back rubber mat but can only find one that goes from firewall to the seat. So I will go with carpet and get rubber mats.
I will try to not take 6 months with the updates this time
Truck was out of service for about a month due to needing a clutch. It took me a bit to get the $ for everything I wanted to replace while it was apart. I did the clutch rod and equalizer bushings, floor clutch rod boot, exhaust flange gasket, and valve cover gasket.
I decided to use the diaphragm type pressure plate over the stiffer arm style. That took a bit to get used to how the pedal felt. Drives great though.
Today I have finally replaced the dry rotted tires and stock wheels with new tires and rims from a 97-98 F150.
Here is how it looks now
Next is shocks, radius arm bushings, full brake rebuild, carpet, dynomat patches, POR15 the floor pans, door and window seals.
I wanted a full front to back rubber mat but can only find one that goes from firewall to the seat. So I will go with carpet and get rubber mats.
I will try to not take 6 months with the updates this time
#120
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: **** hole San Jose ca.
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
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Wow, hard to believe it has been about 6 months since I have made any updates to this thread.
Truck was out of service for about a month due to needing a clutch. It took me a bit to get the $ for everything I wanted to replace while it was apart. I did the clutch rod and equalizer bushings, floor clutch rod boot, exhaust flange gasket, and valve cover gasket.
I decided to use the diaphragm type pressure plate over the stiffer arm style. That took a bit to get used to how the pedal felt. Drives great though.
Today I have finally replaced the dry rotted tires and stock wheels with new tires and rims from a 97-98 F150.
Here is how it looks now
Next is shocks, radius arm bushings, full brake rebuild, carpet, dynomat patches, POR15 the floor pans, door and window seals.
I wanted a full front to back rubber mat but can only find one that goes from firewall to the seat. So I will go with carpet and get rubber mats.
I will try to not take 6 months with the updates this time
Truck was out of service for about a month due to needing a clutch. It took me a bit to get the $ for everything I wanted to replace while it was apart. I did the clutch rod and equalizer bushings, floor clutch rod boot, exhaust flange gasket, and valve cover gasket.
I decided to use the diaphragm type pressure plate over the stiffer arm style. That took a bit to get used to how the pedal felt. Drives great though.
Today I have finally replaced the dry rotted tires and stock wheels with new tires and rims from a 97-98 F150.
Here is how it looks now
Next is shocks, radius arm bushings, full brake rebuild, carpet, dynomat patches, POR15 the floor pans, door and window seals.
I wanted a full front to back rubber mat but can only find one that goes from firewall to the seat. So I will go with carpet and get rubber mats.
I will try to not take 6 months with the updates this time
Their thinking is it mite cause the pedal to put added pressure on the throw-out bearing that could cause early bearing failure.
Orich