deciding on reliable gauges
#1
deciding on reliable gauges
Im really leaning towards ISSPRO EV2's but I found Glowshift MAXTOW gauges that are dual analog/digital. anyone with experience specifically the MAXTOW line?
I know the ISSPRO series are reliable and what not. and I know Glowshift is hit or miss with their stuff.
any have the ISSPRO EV2's, how do you like them at night?
thanks in advance guys!
I know the ISSPRO series are reliable and what not. and I know Glowshift is hit or miss with their stuff.
any have the ISSPRO EV2's, how do you like them at night?
thanks in advance guys!
#2
Just my opinion, I've been putting Autometer in race cars for over 25 years and haven't had one fail or be inaccurate yet. I have two (fuel pressure and voltage) in my truck, the high zoot stepper motor ones that light up in different colors for warning signals and all, just like Nascar...
Brian
Brian
#4
I have Isspro EV2's, 100psi fuel gauge and a EGT. I killed the FP sending unit after about a year, Isspro customer service sent me new a part zero questions asked. They're nice, the black on black with red pointer is close enough to stock that them being down in the dash bezel looks great. For the price point, they're good. If I was doing a complete multi-gauge set up I'd run one of the fancy series of Autometers, but I use an Edge CTS for most stuff so it was only the two black ones going into the dash:
#5
I have Isspro EV2's, 100psi fuel gauge and a EGT. I killed the FP sending unit after about a year, Isspro customer service sent me new a part zero questions asked. They're nice, the black on black with red pointer is close enough to stock that them being down in the dash bezel looks great. For the price point, they're good. If I was doing a complete multi-gauge set up I'd run one of the fancy series of Autometers, but I use an Edge CTS for most stuff so it was only the two black ones going into the dash:
#6
Installation error. The hole I cut in the bezel was too tight, it caused a homing error where the gauge wouldn't reset to zero when the truck started like it should. I pulled it out and it worked fine, so I dremel'd the hole a little bigger and it's running fine now.
I used the Strictly Diesel fuel pressure adapter hose:
http://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-2671...e-adapter.aspx
Install thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12858548
Bowl side:
This isn't mine, but I ran it to basically the same place. My sending unit is brass and a good bit smaller than this one:
I used the Strictly Diesel fuel pressure adapter hose:
http://www.strictlydiesel.com/p-2671...e-adapter.aspx
Install thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12858548
Bowl side:
This isn't mine, but I ran it to basically the same place. My sending unit is brass and a good bit smaller than this one:
#7
Installation error. The hole I cut in the bezel was too tight, it caused a homing error where the gauge wouldn't reset to zero when the truck started like it should. I pulled it out and it worked fine, so I dremel'd the hole a little bigger and it's running fine now.
I used the Strictly Diesel fuel pressure adapter hose:
Driven Diesel 6.0L Fuel Pressure Adapter
Install thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12858548
Bowl side:
This isn't mine, but I ran it to basically the same place. My sending unit is brass and a good bit smaller than this one:
I used the Strictly Diesel fuel pressure adapter hose:
Driven Diesel 6.0L Fuel Pressure Adapter
Install thread:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post12858548
Bowl side:
This isn't mine, but I ran it to basically the same place. My sending unit is brass and a good bit smaller than this one:
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#8
No worries man, I enjoy helping out when I can The gauge and adapter were the major parts, you'll need some odd ends like shrink conduit to cover where you solder, some kind of fuse tap or a splice to get a 12V power wire to the gauge, and some conduit or sleeveing to run the wires in. I used different wire so I'd have 6 unique colors instead of repeating, but the gauge came with more than enough extra. Just normal electrical stuff I already had in the tool bag with my soldering iron and multimeter. I had to buy a 2" hole saw to cut my dash bezel (a wood only one with two teeth, from the backside, and slowly), but you can get different sizes of gauge pods to hang where the grab handle it.
#10
If you put it on the right side like in that pic, all you have to do it cut the round hole for the gauge. If you want to put one on the left side of the steering wheel, you have to cut a chunk out of the substructure under the dash. It's not a big deal, I'm just glad that I had a good guide in this pic:
I got the idea from a guy named cartmanea, he used to have a great install thread but for some reason all the pics got wiped out of it:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ts-o-pics.html
I got the idea from a guy named cartmanea, he used to have a great install thread but for some reason all the pics got wiped out of it:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ts-o-pics.html
#11
#12
Well thank you all for the comments and the Hijacked thread, LOL Bump for response on the Glowshift MAXTOW series.
Ill be mounting my new gauges on a pod above mirror, and I have the F650 dash so I might throw one down the center dash where the hole for the air brake button is.
Ill be mounting my new gauges on a pod above mirror, and I have the F650 dash so I might throw one down the center dash where the hole for the air brake button is.
#13
#14
The only issue with Isspro is the back lighting will flicker when dimmed if you have auto lamps. Isspro knows about the problem and said to fix it you need to program the gauge with their $25 programmer. The programmer doesn't cure the problem, but it does let you program the idiot light in the gauge. Great people to deal with and if I decide to add more gauges they will be Isspro.
#15
Oops, probably should have answered the OPs actual question. Mine flicker when tied directly to the dash dimmer wire (the blue-red trace from the install thread I linked to above). I thought about getting the Isspro dimmer kit and tying into the 12V power wire to the gauges with a diode, but that's too much effort for the <1% of time I run the dimmer at something other than full bright or totally dim. The Isspros go totally dark at what I'd call 4-outta-10 brightness on the dash, so they only flicker in mid-range of the factory dash dimmer. With where my gauges are they're not too bright at night on their own, if one was in my eye-line in a gauge pod or if I needed to watch the EGT full time in the dark I would for sure set up the correct dimmer to fix the flicker and be able to turn the gauge down independent from the dash.