I have a 2008 F250 6.4, I just had the DPF cleaned and the EGR valve replaced. I picked the truck up and was told that I needed to drive it 20 - 30 miles to burn off the oil in the exhaust. I went 15.2 miles and the truck info panel said to stop safely now, and cut off. It would not start nor crank. I had it towed back to the shop and am now being told it needs both turbos replaced. Is this common, can you rebuild them and should this happen all at the same time? I have not had any loss of power or any noise from the turbos. I only lost power when the DPF went out and there wasnt any signs of that problem, it just went. Can someone offer any info on this?

 

I am taking a shot in the dark here but if you had to have your DPF cleaned then the heat from the DPF during the regen process has probably taken the life of one of your turbos if not both. I think the rule is that if you have one turbo go bad, you should have them both rebuilt or replaced. How many miles are on the truck? Was your DPF clogged that bad that you had to have it cleaned?

 

The truck has 160000 miles on it. The DPF was pretty bad. The regen mode wasn't cycling more than normal.

 

Usually that type of shutdown is due to a EGT sensor at the DPF. the one just in front of the DPF.

Get the codes...need to probe more into this since it is on your dime..

 

Usually that type of shutdown is due to a EGT sensor at the DPF. the one just in front of the DPF.

Get the codes...need to probe more into this since it is on your dime..

 

They pulled 2 codes off of the truck when it was towed back to the shop. One was for the DPF and the other was for a sensor at the DPF. On the following Monday they came back and said that I needed turbos.... Would that sensor cause oil to flow into the down tube.

 

blown seal or a bad bearing. Turbo failures of this kind are rare.

How often do you change your oil and what type of filters are you using?

 

I was using a Delvac oil and NAPA filters. Should I only use Motorcraft??? Would this cause this failure

 

Using incorrect filters (Napa) has the potential to starve the motor of oil. Turbo's are feed with oil for lubrication. The oil is fine as long as it is CJ4 rated.

Use Motorcraft filters for fuel and oil only on this motor.

Do at least a new filter now. You can get oil filters at walmart or any parts store.

 

Im sorry, the oil that I have used in this truck is Rotella, dont know if that makes a difference. Should I request that the sensor be replaced at the DPF. That hasnt been changed as of now. I will go on and do the oil and filter changes now as well. Should this be done and tested before I bite off the cost of turbos or is it pretty much a done deal at this point?

 

That is a judgement call. Personally I think the oil change to correct filters is a must. Rotella is fine again as long as it is CJ4 rated.

I think personally on my dime...replace the sensor and road test.

 

I had one (drove from colorado) that the DPF had just been replaced before they left. Customer said it was completely plugged. Got here, it shut down. Again completely plugged. Previous dealer missed that the turbo oil seals were bad, sending oil through the exhaust, plugging the DPF. Pulled the lower CAC hose off, and drained a gallon of oil. Why it didn't runaway, I'll never know.

 

OK guys, forgive my southern ignorance here but this sounds like a chicken/egg deal. The blocked DPF causes the turbo to over heat and burns up the seals, while the leaking turbo seals cause the DPF to be blocked.

 

Nope, turbo seals went bad from wear/defect, etc, plugging the DPF. Dealer replaced the DPF without repairing the root cause of it plugging.

 

Gotcha, thanks. So, I guess if you have no DPF to plug then the turbo seals just leak until a bearing goes bad and tells you there is a problem.