Better you than me. I would START the quote at 40 hours on an E-Series. As far as the method you decide to choose, it's entirely up to you. By now. everyone who knows me, KNOWS I refuse to tackle this repair other than doing it with the cab/body removed from the frame. I realize that on a cutaway application this may prove extremely inconvenient, but you also need to know what's involved with pulling an engine on an E-Series the back killing way. And that is, engine mounts, turbo, pedestal, intake manifold all removed IN VEHICLE, along with all the other BS up front before you can even think about trying to squeeze it out the front. And even with all of the above mentioned items removed, it's still a very tight squeeze.
With all that said, pick your poison on how you want to proceed with this repair. For what it's worth, the last two complete engine replacements I did on an E-Series, I did it without having to disassemble even one component before dropping the new assembly in between the framerails with the body removed.
Believe it or not, you would be amazed at how relatively few components there are, that need disconnected to separate the body from the frame on an E-Series compared to the F-Series applications.
Ford Diesel/Senior/Master Tech
....who works at a dealership that now employs SOME half decent looking female employees since they overhauled most of the administrative staff
....but STILL loves hot women with big boobies
....and STILL hates working on E-Series with 6.0L
mike how many of the cab chasise have you done that were ambulances with full gear?
i think i have done one cargo van off all the ones i had to do. that one was a walk in the park relitivly speaking anyway.
Former Ford Senior master tech, gas and diesel.1992-2012
ASE Master Tech, L1 certified.
2006 f250 cc swb fx4 6.0
mods arp,egr delete, tuned, 91 gallon RDS fuel tank.
OMG Cheezit you dont want to know what a nightmare this job has been!! I will give you a rundown....Customer comes to me with the van in a heated barn on a drive on lift in a non running condition. Tells me ford diagnosed it and that he wanted me to replace the oil cooler and egr cooler without diagnosing myself and he already had the parts. I say no problem done many on F series will do for 40hrs max as quoted with the help of Mikes input. So i get them both out and i dont see any problems with them under a static pressure test so.... off with the cab. Heads come off and get sent out due to warpage, ARP studs HG installed new injector o-rings, new turbo (seized turbine in old one) He had both alternators, starter, and AC pump remanded, coolers and rads professionaly cleaned out. At this time i STRONGLY suggested to do stc fitting, dummy pluggs and down pipe and showed him an artical in Diesel Power mag to enforce the importance and that i was not tryin to make more money but was told that he prefered it to just go back together now. And back together she went. Cranked and cranked NO LPO So i get into the lpop and find scoring and replace gears and cover, Great not she starts after long cranking and runs great for 15-20 min. I put a KOER test and ...THUMP THUMP THUMP bent push tube on Cyl 4 and broken rocker. BTW Cab has been fastened down at this point. So i figure my fault replace for free with cab on chassis still ****ty but do able. Run for another 20 min or so rev a few times and dies... re-start runs then rev it a bit and dies now no start at all. I have low pressure but now no HPO ICP reads .26V and 25-26 psi cranking. So now i have to air test the HPO system and hope the leak in NOT on the passenger side. He says i dont care if it cost 20000 buck i want this van. so now im tryin to figure a price for him when im done thats not rediculas but fair to both of us under the circumstances.
Oh to answer your question to mike, he says for ambulance edition to add about 10 hrs. keep in mind this is not a full on ambulance, just a regular lookin van but it has 2 alts, more coolant lines running from passenger side front up over alt over front of turbo along driver side valve cover and down rear driver side of engine for rear heat. Extra brackets and just that much tighter work space. I really dont want to have to jack up this damn cab agin though!!
Thanks for all your guys help by the way. I am a 310T Truck and coach mechanic and now am remembering why i try to stay away from this smaller stuff. Got to keep existing customers happy in the north i suppose
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