Fender surgery F-1 LFD style
#46
01-16-2013, 02:08 PM
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#47
01-16-2013, 05:37 PM
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To everybody that only post on the thread to subscribe, the easy way to do it is go to "Thread Tools" at the top of the post, open the box and the bottom option is "Subscribe to this Thread", click on it and you are done. This helps reduce the thread to less pages so we can watch the Master at work. Hope this helps.
#49
01-27-2013, 05:57 PM
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Sorry for the delay but last week my wife and son were both sick so I was playing Doctor and not in the fun way so no shop time to speak of.
So I started today on the patches and only got the lower rear fender opening almost done when my compressor motor gave it up for unknown reasons so that put the stop to most of my progress but I have a few pics to show all the same.
I will just give a basic run down as the 50 or so pics should give most of the info and if you have any questions just ask and I will do my best to fill in the blanks.
I started bu cutting out the rust hump so I could make a template of the patch. It is over sized but will be trimmed down to fit later. I put some crown into the piece with the english wheel and then I used the bead roller to put a 90* lip on the piece and after shrinking the edge it was time to put the wire grove in. I again used the bead roller with a different set up to give the grove that the wire goes into. On my drivers side I did not have the bead roller so I just left the flange hang out and used a hammer and dolly to slowly work the metal over the wire. It takes more time this way but the end results are still very good. The next step was to make the inner reinforcement piece and that is out of 16GA CRS and I made a simple tipping tool to work over the edge that will be welded to the fender later. Just work the tipping tool in very small increments until you reach your desired edge.
Then time to trim the rust out of the fender and start fitting the patch. Once it is fitting like you want it it is time to clean, prime and paint the inner structure of all parts before welding anything in place. I just used a good metal etching primmer and good top coat for this step. Keep in mind the factory did not us anything in here so what ever you do is going to last a long time! Then start to tack the part making sure all surfaces are flat and lined up before taking it in place. Hammer and dolly your welds and keep on tacking until the patch is finished. This is were my compressor left me high and dry so I still have some finishing to do but as you can tell from the black marker I only have a very few spots to raise up a .001 or 2.
Kevin
LFD Inc.
So I started today on the patches and only got the lower rear fender opening almost done when my compressor motor gave it up for unknown reasons so that put the stop to most of my progress but I have a few pics to show all the same.
I will just give a basic run down as the 50 or so pics should give most of the info and if you have any questions just ask and I will do my best to fill in the blanks.
I started bu cutting out the rust hump so I could make a template of the patch. It is over sized but will be trimmed down to fit later. I put some crown into the piece with the english wheel and then I used the bead roller to put a 90* lip on the piece and after shrinking the edge it was time to put the wire grove in. I again used the bead roller with a different set up to give the grove that the wire goes into. On my drivers side I did not have the bead roller so I just left the flange hang out and used a hammer and dolly to slowly work the metal over the wire. It takes more time this way but the end results are still very good. The next step was to make the inner reinforcement piece and that is out of 16GA CRS and I made a simple tipping tool to work over the edge that will be welded to the fender later. Just work the tipping tool in very small increments until you reach your desired edge.
Then time to trim the rust out of the fender and start fitting the patch. Once it is fitting like you want it it is time to clean, prime and paint the inner structure of all parts before welding anything in place. I just used a good metal etching primmer and good top coat for this step. Keep in mind the factory did not us anything in here so what ever you do is going to last a long time! Then start to tack the part making sure all surfaces are flat and lined up before taking it in place. Hammer and dolly your welds and keep on tacking until the patch is finished. This is were my compressor left me high and dry so I still have some finishing to do but as you can tell from the black marker I only have a very few spots to raise up a .001 or 2.
Kevin
LFD Inc.
