My build thread
#31
and thanks SVT-F100. Not very quickly, but plugging away. By the way, I am Topper (topmoo), Ross is ALBQU-F1 that I was talking about who told me about the rubber between the cowl/cab and the fender.
thanks to all the members here - this is a great site with lots of members who know how and help the less experienced!
#32
#33
Thanks, I am going to check it out. I will post later if I actually do it. I have been told that I do not have to have an emergency brake to pass inspection in Texas, but I want one anyway. If I do have to have a mechanical one I will do both with a hidden button to deactivate the electric one. Always good to have a plan, even if it changes several times later...
#34
Do not guess:
http://www.txdps.state.tx.us/rsd/vi/...nCriteria.aspx
I got our F500 inspected. He made me add cab clearance lights.
http://www.txdps.state.tx.us/rsd/vi/...nCriteria.aspx
I got our F500 inspected. He made me add cab clearance lights.
#35
Hey Topper,
We added an ebrake out of the same Explorer we got the 8.8 inch rear axle out of - It works fine. I didn't try to get it inspected without the ebrake so I don't know if it's necessary here or not.
We do not have an "idiot light" on our ebrake so I can say it get's forgotten & left on more than I'd like to say. I'm going to add the red idiot light this Spring.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
We added an ebrake out of the same Explorer we got the 8.8 inch rear axle out of - It works fine. I didn't try to get it inspected without the ebrake so I don't know if it's necessary here or not.
We do not have an "idiot light" on our ebrake so I can say it get's forgotten & left on more than I'd like to say. I'm going to add the red idiot light this Spring.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
#36
Do not guess:
Texas Department of Public Safety - Inspection Criteria for the Annual SAFETY Inspection
I got our F500 inspected. He made me add cab clearance lights.
Texas Department of Public Safety - Inspection Criteria for the Annual SAFETY Inspection
I got our F500 inspected. He made me add cab clearance lights.
E-Brake in Texas is only required from 1960 and newer.
An F-1 is less than 80" wide so it doesn't have to have:
18. Clearance Lamps
19. Side Marker Lamps
20. Side Reflectors
#37
Hey Topper,
We added an ebrake out of the same Explorer we got the 8.8 inch rear axle out of - It works fine. I didn't try to get it inspected without the ebrake so I don't know if it's necessary here or not.
We do not have an "idiot light" on our ebrake so I can say it get's forgotten & left on more than I'd like to say. I'm going to add the red idiot light this Spring.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
We added an ebrake out of the same Explorer we got the 8.8 inch rear axle out of - It works fine. I didn't try to get it inspected without the ebrake so I don't know if it's necessary here or not.
We do not have an "idiot light" on our ebrake so I can say it get's forgotten & left on more than I'd like to say. I'm going to add the red idiot light this Spring.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
#38
Hey Topper,
These old trucks do get a lot of attention when out & about.
We have an after market alarm system & we have a hidden switch for the electric fuel pump. Bad guys would have hard time going anywhere without gas. You'd hate to work so hard on getting these old trucks back in shape to have it disappear from your driveway.
We put the Ebrake "handle" down low under the dash by where the driver's leg would be - You can't see it so it doesn't effect the "look" too much.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
These old trucks do get a lot of attention when out & about.
We have an after market alarm system & we have a hidden switch for the electric fuel pump. Bad guys would have hard time going anywhere without gas. You'd hate to work so hard on getting these old trucks back in shape to have it disappear from your driveway.
We put the Ebrake "handle" down low under the dash by where the driver's leg would be - You can't see it so it doesn't effect the "look" too much.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
#39
Now that it has been brought up Topper, I plan on putting a actuator in my E brake system yet still have the normal pull handle or pedal. All you need is a 3 position rocker switch, (engage - off - release). Just engage before turning the ignition off and pulling the keys and the truck is locked in place, whether the E brake handle is pulled or not.
#40
Now that it has been brought up Topper, I plan on putting a actuator in my E brake system yet still have the normal pull handle or pedal. All you need is a 3 position rocker switch, (engage - off - release). Just engage before turning the ignition off and pulling the keys and the truck is locked in place, whether the E brake handle is pulled or not.
#41
It's actually very hard to "hide" a hidden switch! There is a small operating radius to reach it. If a car thief tries to steal vehicle and an alarm sounds or it doesn't start immediately, the first thing he does is sweep under the dash and the seat for a switch. I'd suggest a remote switch with a key fob transmitter, or hiding it in plain sight: a choke **** converted to switch plainly marked "choke" (making it so it has to be pulled and turned would be best), a cigarette lighter reworked so pushing it in make a complete circuit, Two 3 position switches in separate locations wired together so that they need to be in a certain combo of positions (out of 9 possible combos), a switch "hidden" in an obvious location (under the edge of the dash?) that either does nothing (run dummy wires from it to a distant location) or switching it actually deactivates a second more hidden switch. Other places to mount a small flush push button switch hooked up thru a latching relay might be on the bottom of the door arm rest, on the door post down near the floor behind the vertical part of the shoulder belt, or behind the sun visor.
#42
It's actually very hard to "hide" a hidden switch! There is a small operating radius to reach it. If a car thief tries to steal vehicle and an alarm sounds or it doesn't start immediately, the first thing he does is sweep under the dash and the seat for a switch. I'd suggest a remote switch with a key fob transmitter, or hiding it in plain sight: a choke **** converted to switch plainly marked "choke" (making it so it has to be pulled and turned would be best), a cigarette lighter reworked so pushing it in make a complete circuit, Two 3 position switches in separate locations wired together so that they need to be in a certain combo of positions (out of 9 possible combos), a switch "hidden" in an obvious location (under the edge of the dash?) that either does nothing (run dummy wires from it to a distant location) or switching it actually deactivates a second more hidden switch. Other places to mount a small flush push button switch hooked up thru a latching relay might be on the bottom of the door arm rest, on the door post down near the floor behind the vertical part of the shoulder belt, or behind the sun visor.
#43
If you use a switch make sure the back of it and the wires are not readily accessible, most all car thieves carry a jumper wire with alligator clips on the ends. It was so common when ignition switches were in the dash, such a wire in your pocket was considered to be in possession of burglar tools.
#45
I got the front end together, primed and painted. Not very good pictures, but the paint actually looks pretty good. If I can get the hang of color sanding and rubbing/buffing it might look pretty good. I am going to wait for a while before I attempt it. Next is getting the hood to fit and the hinges to work. Still contemplating a reverse opening hood too.