When I did mine, the Turbo/babies butt was the hardest part for me... I spent a half hour fighting with it, and had to walk away for a while. Came back and got it in less then 10 minutes.

 

My early 99 needed up pipes and there was no way I was going to pay $900 for the IH bellowed pipes (my local IH dealer quoted $1600). I purchased the 99.5 and newer Dorman's from Advance Auto for $148 using the P20 discount code to try them out. I had the trans out for a clutch fork break so it was easy to see fitment. Using the Dorman collector each pipe was about 0.75" too long so I used the the old OEM's to mark up the exact length needed, made alignment marks & cut the Dorman's, tig welded them back together and installed. We weld racing headers occasionally so we have an argon setup to purge the inside of the tube, if you don't have a way to purge the pipe find a local race shop that does headers. It's 10 minutes worth of welding which should be less than 50 bucks. They work flawlessly and i picked up 2 inches of boost to boot (apparently the old ones were leaking badly)! There was a slight interference with the passenger side pipe and the top of the manual trans bolt boss, I just heated the pipe and used a 1/2 inch bar (tire iron) to put a 1/16 inch dimple in the pipe to clear it. The restriction in the pipe is almost nonexistent and is on the leeward side of the exhaust flow.

The quality of the Dorman pipes is better than the stock pipes. They are heavier gauge, the bellow's seem of good quality and the weld quality is very good. I expect they'll outlast the truck but I will post any issues if they arise. I was going to use Rustoleum 2000 degree paint to paint them but decided they'd outlast the truck without the paint. You could do the same thing with the IH 99.5 and up pipes but at $420 I don't see a need to spend that much. The Dorman's seem quite adequate.

 

Awesome creativity. I've been very happy with mine.

 

Just got a set of Dormans all bolted up. It was a real bugger getting the collector stuck back on the turbo, but after that fight, it was smooth sailing.

I took a chance to save a few bills and it paid off. When I opened the box, the fasteners bag had been cut open which makes me think Rock Auto was maybe double checking the hardware. I'm not sure but it all bolted up nice.

Now just to a get my HPx on, finish tightening the new lines on my regulated return from Diesel Innovations, do the in tank mods, change my thermostat and housing (diesel site 203*), get my new gauges mounted (replacing my pillar pod with 3 small digital gauges from Auber Instruments. Fuel Pressure, EGT, Boost), clean up the pipes, put my new boots on, throw a Riff Raff sticker on the back window and I should be good to go!

 

My recent experience with the Dorman uppies was very good....no issues relating to the product.

 

Ditto...ditto

 

Well, guess I'm "that guy". Less than happy with my pipes. Having issues with the drivers side not fitting well mating to the manifold. Manifold is new Ford about 1 1/2 years ago. I put studs on the collector so I could leave it loose but lined up, tightened the bottom then the top, but after driving a few days getting soot stains at the bottom. The Dorman flange is slightly smaller than the Ford flange, and it looks like it is slightly off angle. Uppies are 3 months old, Advance Auto deal.
Any thoughts?

 

Interesting, did you inspect the flare on the up pipe before installing to ensure it was flared properly (see my photos above for proper flare)?

When installing the up pipe you need to seat the pipe against the manifold by working it back and forth until seated. There should be plenty of movement to do so. I played with mine quite a bit until it fit tight.

If it is seated properly then check the bolts to ensure they are still tight, they can come loose from heating and cooling. Also make sure the bolts are pulled down evenly.

If you can post a photo it could be helpful.

I wish I had more to offer.

 

I tightened the TOP and then the BOTTOM. I did not have any problems doing it this way.

 

Same technique I used. More for the fact you can access the bottom bolts better as they are easier to get to.

 

I'm dragging up an old thread so I don't start a new one. I just got a new set of pipes and wanted to show some pictures of the improved casting.

I've installed three different sets of these and this is by far the best finish I've seen yet.

 

Looks like the set I got last year, worked fine on my rig. Also had a bad exhaust manifold and tried the Dorman, worked like a charm.

 

I just installed these pipes and like others the most difficult part was clamping the turbo to the babies butt. Its all by feel.

I took the truck for a test drive and white smoke/exhaust started coming out my vent. I don't think it has anything to do with the up pipes themselves but I used the original clamps and Im thinking it didn't clamp up right. Should I buy new clamps? Everything else seems to be tight. Nothing leaking from the manifolds and everything else looks good. The smoke/exhaust is faint but can definitely see it and smell it.

 

I would make sure the turbo didn't come slightly unseated while you were clamping it together...it has a tendency to pop out of alignment. Did you make sure you got the little "pip" or whatever the little tiny stud is called to line up with the small hole? That ensures proper alignment.

I'd just make sure it's seated correctly first before replacing clamps. In many ways this is a 2-person job to make sure it doesn't shift out of alignment while the clamp is being torqued down.

 

Thanks Tail gate, I just ordered a new clamp from Bob at diesel O-rings. He was very helpful. I was not aware of the "pip" until Bob told me. Will have to re-do again. I'm sure that its not lined up.

Thanks again.

Gilbert