Ok here is where I am seeing differential fluid ( or what I am assuming is that. It is mixed in with the grease but alot of it is just too liquidy to be only grease. There was also a bit of a stain left on the outside of my rim where the opposite side of truck was raised up a bit higher and something leaked out.

Is this normal considering that the right side sat up higher on jackstands for many months than this left side?

Maybe they all leak a little or is this wishful thinking?

I look inside the axle tube and I see no seal to stop anything from coming out. I look at the backside of my drum and I dont see how any seal there is gonna stop diff fluid from coming out.

I guess this is where I need some help

 

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At the bottom of any of my posts is a line in my signiture. thats the link Click it

Try this link
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ire-truck.html

JimG

 

Ok got there, thanks for that

 

Does anyone have any suggestions on what liquid to use to hone these cylinders with. Cant remember what I used last time and google is giving me nothing so far

Im going to go with brake fluid I guess, cant hurt.

 

Even though I pulled the drum off the left side this A.M I have had the R side off for some time so I will start there. Leave the left alone so I know how to put the R back together ( I hope )

I removed these a while back because I was on the look-out for new wheel cylinders and I wanted to be able to better identify them. These are the parts



Without going into too great of detail when I did these brakes a couple of years ago I found the cylinders pretty rusty. I decided to try and hone them out, so I honed and honed for hours. I was worried that I had possibly honed too much and that maybe they would leak because of lack of seal.

I put them beck together and I did not have a leaking problem that I was aware of so I am going to roll the dice and try it again.

It did not take much too clean them up, a few minutes with the honing tool.

There are still some iffy areas, mostly though beyond where the cup will ever ride where moisture just sat from lack of use. There are still some dark areas within the cylinder and that means there is still some light pitting but at least for these two it is very minor and I dont think I want to risk the chance of honing them any further.

I think they will be fine.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can coat these cylinders with just for the time being until I have all of this done, dont want any flash rusting, might be a few days might be a few weeks, never know. Thanks

 

I wonder if a dip in an electrolytic rust removal system wouldn't be a good way to open up any damaged bore material?

In my experience, when the crosshatch from honing is visible, the new rubber cups will quickly wear out. You need a very smooth finish with finer stones.

 

Captains log, these are the voyages of the starship F-7 whose only mission in life is too screw its current owner out of as much possible time and money as possible

Final entry for the day:

I did a little reading in my service manual, gave me some ideas, some that worked some that did not. I put my wheel cylinder assy back together but coated all of the parts with clean brake fluid prior to doing so.

I decided to also take apart the adjusting cams/mechanisms on my shoes and I am very glad I did. I dont think anyone had ever done this and they were stiff. I should have a much easier time adjusting the brakes now, I coated all moving parts and parts that I felt contacted metal to metal as well



There is prob. a lead shoe there but I dont know which is which and didnt bother to inspect them close enough to find out. I was just careful that they went back on the same side.

On another post I had made I mentioned that initially when I took the shoes off and installed new rubber ect the old dust shields would not go back on properly. This was evidently my fault. It matters which goes where and how they are positioned.

After giving it some thought and fartin around with them I was able to figure it out.

Running out of daylight here so I can take better pictures tomm but I found it easiest to again remove everything off the backing plate, strip it down to nothing and the mount the wheel cylinders in their cradle with dust shields installed and the place brake shoes on. Lastly hook up the two springs.

Springs I had to fart around with a bit but there is an easy way and I will post that tomm morning when I do the drivers side.

When I started this A.M I thouht Id have plenty of time to do all the wheel cylinders and here I am with only one wheel done. I am happy with my results though, I feel that today I have gained alot of confidence with working on the brakes because I feel that I understand how they come apart and go back together.

Big trucks can be intimidating because of their size but the more I work on this thing the more I realize that its just a big car.

 

I have always wanted to try electrolysis, I have read quite a bit about it. I dont know what to say about the cross hatching, I have done wheel cylinders in the past and never had an issue.

I guess you could look at it two ways, your thoughts ( which very well may be correct ) or a thought that comes to my mind in that we don't polish cylinder bores to their highest luster because we rely on that slight coat of oil that falls into the crosshatch to help seal the cylinder/rings.

Hopefully I will be OK

 

The differential oil is supposed to lubricate the wheel bearings. They should be packed with grease initially, but they will get splashed with oil as you drive. It's important that you replace both the hub seal, and the axle seal. I didn't see the axle seal in any of your pictures, so I wonder if somebody left them out? It's a plate with the axle bolt pattern in it, and it has a seal attached to the center of it. Without them, diff oil will sling out between the axle and the hub. It's clearly illustrated in the shop manual. You can call me if you need more details. I have the seals you need as well.
Chuck

 

I use a thin coat of RTV instead of axle seals. Best used sparingly.

 

Very interesting, I took pictures of almost everything I have so if it were possible I guess that someone did leave them out than I guess they did.

I will take one more picture tomm morning and post it just so that its here and can be referenced later if need be. There was furthest in a big nut, it has been referred to here as a nut that requires a specific amount of unknown torque which I will have to investigate and make sure I make happen when I go to put all of this back together, then next in line was some sort of what I call a spacer with a bunch of holes in it, I do not know its purpose but it just pulled straight out with the help of two screwdrivers grabbing it and lastly the first nut that I removed.

I will not do the same so I will call and get the seals assuming they are not made from unobtanium and that is reflected with the cost. I do want to do everything I can to try and assure this time around I have no issues.

I need to get a picture of the shop manual I am working with and post it here so that anyone looking for a shop manual does not get the same re-printed copy I did, stinks that I spent the money I did on it because evidently I wasted it. I see no picture that you are referring too.

Thanks for taking the time to let me know.

 

Thanks, when you say axle seals are you meaning the outer paper seals that would go in the area that I show on post # 27 3rd picture down only or are you also meaning the possibly missing seal that chuck 48-50 mentions?

Thank-you again, you have made quite a few helpful posts with my truck and it is greatly appreciated

 

Outer flange surface may be sealed with RTV. But don't get carried away with the stuff and clean all oil off first. I just spread a thin film using a clean finger.
The inner (hub) seals on our F500 were in tight and sort of blended in but, once I looked, they were obvious. A good bearing store can get seals to fit if you can give them inner and outer diameters. NOS ones are getting hard to find.

Note- this seal goes in the inner side of the hub, away from the studs that hold the axle flange and seals where the hub rotates around the axle housing. Look to see if it stayed on the axle housing. Otherwise, it should still be inside the hub and would keep you from being able to pull the inner bearing cone if it is still installed. We used a slide hammer to pull our old ones as they seat very tightly inside the inner bore of the hub.

 

Thanks very much,

With the information/link that Havi posted and the description you have given I was NOT able to find a diagram of a breakdown of the parts within my outer rear end, I still need to print whats good for my truck though and put it on file.

I did however find this but it pertains to a different rear end.

I would be willing to bet though that the lower picture is the seal that I am missing. Automotive rear ends have these and I kinda thought that maybe this is what you guys were talking about but I also could not fathom someone just not putting it on there.

My rear end just does not have this seal!

I am going to start a new post inquiring about the part #. I have it in my mind that some guys dont like these long winded topics and someone that can maybe answer the question might not view it and help me with a good #.

It would be sooo much easier if I could just go to Napa and order the part if that is possible rather than do the mail order thing.