96 I6 hardly runs when hot
#1
96 I6 hardly runs when hot
Ive had my 96 f150 2wd I6 for a few months and havent had any issues. I feel like MPG is low, AVG 15-16mpg with normal driving... but other than that, it runs fine. I usually drive 20-30 min trips, 1 way.
BUT
A few weeks ago, I drove 100 miles one way, truck did fine, came back home and stopped at a store, had about 160 miles on this trip, came back to the truck 5 minutes later and it wouldnt start. It was turning over but would not crank. I let it sit for about 30 minutes and it cranked fine, but by the time I left the parking lot, it was idling low, trying to die and shaking. I kept it going to get me home, but there was a huge loss in power, and it sounded muffled, like it was flooded almost. It didnt want to shift into 4th, and when it did it was shaking really bad. This is the only time its ever done this, its running fine now but something obviously got hot and caused this issue, coolant temps were good, by the way.
Anyone got any ideas? I recently changed the plugs. Previous owner cut the muffler off and has the exhaust running out the side before the rear tire, right off the cat.. didnt know if that or the fact that they also have a smaller belt on it so the smog pump doesnt run caused this? Not sure.
Like I said, short trips, its fine, but driving for that long caused big issues.
Thanks in advance for any help!
BUT
A few weeks ago, I drove 100 miles one way, truck did fine, came back home and stopped at a store, had about 160 miles on this trip, came back to the truck 5 minutes later and it wouldnt start. It was turning over but would not crank. I let it sit for about 30 minutes and it cranked fine, but by the time I left the parking lot, it was idling low, trying to die and shaking. I kept it going to get me home, but there was a huge loss in power, and it sounded muffled, like it was flooded almost. It didnt want to shift into 4th, and when it did it was shaking really bad. This is the only time its ever done this, its running fine now but something obviously got hot and caused this issue, coolant temps were good, by the way.
Anyone got any ideas? I recently changed the plugs. Previous owner cut the muffler off and has the exhaust running out the side before the rear tire, right off the cat.. didnt know if that or the fact that they also have a smaller belt on it so the smog pump doesnt run caused this? Not sure.
Like I said, short trips, its fine, but driving for that long caused big issues.
Thanks in advance for any help!
#3
#5
EDIT: Actually the link in that post is dead. Here's how to do it: http://www.troublecodes.net/ford/
#6
I have the same exact problem, when it starts to do it I push the engine to over 3k before I shift into 2nd and do the same in 2nd before I shift into 3rd. That usually helps it start running closer to how it should but it's still a problem and not how I like to drive it. I'm going to follow this post and hopefully add some useful info by the time this is figured out!
#7
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#9
Intuition tells me to check ignition coil, or one of the coils[?]. Checking can be as simple as cautiously touching, maybe wearing gloves, if very warm or hot it will be part of the problem. It will run better when cool-cold. Pop- my father and I one day had this problem and it seemed doubtful if we would be driving home; he told me to get some ice and place it on the coil -and we rolled on home.
#10
Like others have said, pull codes first. I had once one that ran bad only after a hot re-start. It turned out to be an intermittently failing PCM; it only failed on hot re-start and then it just stayed out to lunch until it cooled. Replaced PCM and all was good again.
I finally figured it out by trying to pull codes right when it was failing (hot re-start). It would not generate codes, just a long, solid tone.
It's a good idea to open up the PCM and check for leaking capacitors regardless. I think this is less likely for a '96 though, as you've got a OBD2 PCM.
Another potential failure is the PIP inside the distributor. I usually care a spare distributor to do a quick road-side swap if needed.
I finally figured it out by trying to pull codes right when it was failing (hot re-start). It would not generate codes, just a long, solid tone.
It's a good idea to open up the PCM and check for leaking capacitors regardless. I think this is less likely for a '96 though, as you've got a OBD2 PCM.
Another potential failure is the PIP inside the distributor. I usually care a spare distributor to do a quick road-side swap if needed.
#11
Have not got it figured out yet. I have only driven 1 very short trip since I made this post. I have a leased 2014 jetta diesel that I will be getting out of early, due to their issues, so Ive been driving it as much as possible since I wont be penalized for mileage, and it averages 44mpg...
I was thinking coil as well, the link to test codes has me slightly confused on how to go about that. I will attempt the fix the issue, but I dont have to drive 150+ miles one way much, and am a little sketched about doing so now incase it does leave me stranded that far from home.
I was thinking coil as well, the link to test codes has me slightly confused on how to go about that. I will attempt the fix the issue, but I dont have to drive 150+ miles one way much, and am a little sketched about doing so now incase it does leave me stranded that far from home.
#13