When I installed the FS2500 oil bypass, I tapped into the oil filter housing where that plug is and put in a T. Off the T I put my little copper line for the oil pressure gauge. As far as where to put it if its a electricial gauge, I don't know. Then on the FS2500 oil bypass return line to the plug in the block I put another T there and put a probe in for oil temp. I don't think you need this if your running your scan gauge. I have my scan gauge set up to read oil temp & trans temp, then to ICP pressure & Duty %, then to PW & boost, then onto volts & IAT. Around and around we go, lately though, if I don't use it in over a week it loses its menory on the scan and you have to do it all over again, what a PITA.

Before the DIY oil cooler I added my LPOP would run warmed up about 45-50 psi. After the DIY oil cooler I'm now at 60-65psi. Idle is about 20psi.

 

The little plug on the filter housing is where I was thinking to out the psi gauge, but I wasn't sure.

 

Yap, that's a high pressure port.

 

I know I don't need an oil temp gauge, but I got it and one other one basically free by buying that 4 pod kit. So, its going in somewhere..

 

In the foreground of this picture in front of the oil filter adapter for my oil cooler is the T I put my oil temp probe in. That gooped up line to the left of the T is the oil bypass return line to the block. I've bought brainded lines since that picture. In the background you can see my copper line for the oil pressure line and the T off the oil filter. The other line is the pressure line for the oil bypass system. That thing inbetween is what your suppose to use to get a oil sample out of. I got rid of that piece of shi!

 

Darin, Pete jumped in my build thread and said Joey sells the 180*.

 

I saw that Glenn. Travis answered me too and said there or strictly diesel. I'll get one from Joey when I send my hpop in for an upgrade.

Thanks for the pic too.

 

One more thing I'm going to replace is my high pressure oil lines. Have you thought about that Glenn? They are kinda spendy, but it's probably time.

 

I haven't thought about it, probably should. I did replace one on the mule that went bad. My wish list gets bigger!

 

Glenn that's a great picture it shows quite well how you hooked up the oil gauges and cooler. Now this is just a comment made with my attempt to add some of my twisted humor but I was thinking we should change your name to Joe (that is Joe the Plumber)

 

That's a good one Rich, LOL. The return to the oil pan plug in the block is NPT's so I simply extended it for the oil temp probe. Now that I have a scan gauge I don't need that plumbing anymore.

 

Oh, and that cooper line in the back there for the oil pressure gauge broke on me once pulling that 26K trailer down to AZ when we moved our house hold stuff. Oil poured out of there putting me on the side of the road. I still don't trust that but don't know how to connect a electrical oil pressure gauge up?

 

An electric oil pressure gauge simply comes with a sending unit that you screw into the port you want to check pressure at. The sending units are usually 1/8" NPT thread, so they are easy to find a spot to hook them up. On my F-150 I use an oil filter sandwich adapter that has several ports in it to check oil pressure, oil temp, etc.. You could put the sensor right there where your copper line is if you change the fitting to give you a female 1/8" NPT to screw the sensor into.

 

I got that 42 pin connector unhooked after work today. Geez, couldn't be much easier. Made me feel kinda stupid I didn't see or feel that bolt. I messed with that thing for 15 minutes at least!

Glenn, if you worry about that mechanical oil pressure gauge and want to use it, make a braided stainless line to use. I had to put them on our race cars as the plastic doesn't pass inspection. You won't have any problems with one of those lines.

 

Thanks Travis and Darin, good info!