I start my suv and it runs rough. When rev it up, it stalls. If i drive it, it only goes 15kph before it wants to stall. I changed all the plugs (NGK Irridiums), the intake gaskets, Cleaned the MFA (with MAF cvleaner), replaced the air filter, replaced the gas filter, and nothing seems to help (frustrated).

My 2003 Ford Escape gave me a p0446 code and the folowing indications,

MIL ON
FIRE READY
FUEL READY
CCM READY
CAT NOT READY
HCM N/A
EVAR NOT READY
2AIR N/A
AC N/A
O2S NOT READY
HO2S NOT READY
EGR NOT READY

Can anyone help?

 

The DTC probably has nothing to do with the drive-ability symptoms. You need to look up that code separately.

Provide history of what happened when the drive-ability problems started.

 

The Escape used to have a burnt rubber smell. I thought it was my serpentine belt, so I changed it. It gave the same smell after I change the belt, but it would still drive fine. I dove it like that for a while.
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I was driving on the highway when I noticed a reduced response to acceleration. It got worse from there.



I also changed my EGR valve. It did not make a difference.

 

First, quit swapping crap based on guesses. All you're doing is wasting money and time.

There are a variety of things that could cause your problems. Possibilities include insufficient fuel pressure, intake or exhaust restriction, or a problem in the electronic fuel management system. Might even be a transaxle/torque converter problem or a belt-driven accessory dragging down the engine.

To diagnose the problem efficiently involves having and using test equipment so you can understand what works or doesn't work, narrowing down the suspects.

Start with a fuel pressure test. If that's okay, check for restricted exhaust, inspect the intake tract and verify the throttle body plate operates correctly. Look for large vacuum leaks on the intake system. After that, you'd need to dig into the PCM using a scan tool in Mode 6 which will require both the correct equipment and some knowledge in how the system works and what to look at first. Might be something as simple as a TPS or similar, but only testing will provide useful information.

 

After I drilled a hole in front of the 2nd catalytic converter, the engine ran without stalling.

 

How big of a hole did you drill?

 

The hole is about a 1/4 "

 

The muffler shop here said they could replace my exhaust with a new muffler (no cc) for about $ 200.00. My fuel economy would be a little worse and my check engine light would stay on.

 

Thanks for the info.
Sounds like muffler shops here.

 

A lot less destructive test is to remove the O2 sensors, one at a time, and take a test drive. Be sure that the hot gas will not set things afire or melt them. If the catalytic converter is plugged, you likely have had misfire occurring that provided unburned fuel that finally combusted in the converter, and may have melted the gizzards.
tom

 

I did have misfires earlier. The mechanic shop computer $100.00 diagnosis was a #5 spark plug or coil. That was why I changed the plugs, that coil, and the intake gaskets. (I had to move the intake to get at the back plugs.)

 

35alive, did you ever replace your converter (yourself or have it done)? Did it run OK after you drilled the hole?

 

I bought a new car!

I will be replacing the exhaust and selling the SUV. I need the $ to help with my mom's funeral expenses. She passed away on the 19th. The SUV ran OK after I drilled the hole. Right now I have other things on my mind. Family is so important.

 

So sorry to hear about your mother! I understand as I just lost a brother. Family is very important! Will remember her & yours in our prayers. Thanks for answering my question & hope all goes well in the New Year! God bless & Merry Christmas!

 

I lost my mother on the 20th of December in 2004. I know how you feel.