Oil Capacity Question
#32
Blackstone Labs I've had great experience with these folks.
#33
I like this off topic answer, since I thought 15 qts per oil change on the 6.0L diesel was killing my bank account. Now I am ahead of the game
This is off topic, but thought I'd throw out the diesel oil change blues:
I do my own oil changes on a 6.0L diesel. Takes 14.5 qt every time. I buy Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40 synthetic, 4 gallons (16 qt) at a time for $105 plus tax. The filter costs $21 mail order. Total oil change (14.5 qt. plus filter) works out to $116.16 plus $10.40 tax. I change every 5,000 miles. Works out to about $0.0295/mile. A lot more than comparable cost for a V10 (maybe 3X?), but we do get some of this back on fuel economy and capability. I average 14.5 - 15 mpg ($0.28/mile at $4/gal). Fuel and oil total about $0.31/mile.
Comparable DIY synthetic oil V10 numbers are probably about $45 for both oil and filter change. For 5,000 mile oil change, works out to about $0.009/mile for oil and filter (about 1/3 diesel expense). Assuming 10 mpg(?) on $3.50/gal gas gives a total bill of $0.36/mile. If only 9 mpg on the average, the total bill would be about $0.40/mile. So, the cost of operating the V10 would range from about 18% - 28% more expensive than a diesel. Neither of these numbers include initial cost and depreciation, which is often bigger than fuel or maintenance costs.
Please don't think I'm starting a diesel vs. V10 debate. I have a diesel as I don't think a V10 could pull my trailer--otherwise I would consider the V10. Diesels have their place and so do the V10 engines. You have to look at the hard numbers and what you need the truck to do when you choose.
I do my own oil changes on a 6.0L diesel. Takes 14.5 qt every time. I buy Mobil Delvac 1 5w-40 synthetic, 4 gallons (16 qt) at a time for $105 plus tax. The filter costs $21 mail order. Total oil change (14.5 qt. plus filter) works out to $116.16 plus $10.40 tax. I change every 5,000 miles. Works out to about $0.0295/mile. A lot more than comparable cost for a V10 (maybe 3X?), but we do get some of this back on fuel economy and capability. I average 14.5 - 15 mpg ($0.28/mile at $4/gal). Fuel and oil total about $0.31/mile.
Comparable DIY synthetic oil V10 numbers are probably about $45 for both oil and filter change. For 5,000 mile oil change, works out to about $0.009/mile for oil and filter (about 1/3 diesel expense). Assuming 10 mpg(?) on $3.50/gal gas gives a total bill of $0.36/mile. If only 9 mpg on the average, the total bill would be about $0.40/mile. So, the cost of operating the V10 would range from about 18% - 28% more expensive than a diesel. Neither of these numbers include initial cost and depreciation, which is often bigger than fuel or maintenance costs.
Please don't think I'm starting a diesel vs. V10 debate. I have a diesel as I don't think a V10 could pull my trailer--otherwise I would consider the V10. Diesels have their place and so do the V10 engines. You have to look at the hard numbers and what you need the truck to do when you choose.
#35
Another totally random observation loosely related to topic:
For oil changes, I've changed both of my Excursions over to Fumoto valves. It is a great addition for not much money. Allows absolute control over when/where the oil goes when you want to drain it. You no longer have to go looking for the drain plug or worry whether the gasket needs to be replaced.
For the diesels, the Fumoto allows me to stop draining in mid change. I had to change oil into 1 gallon jugs in an RV park in the middle of Wyoming. I was able to fill the jug to within 1" of the top and then stop the flow until I could get the next jug. Carried that used oil home so it could be recycled.
The Fumoto valve is a brass bodied ball valve with a very short spring-detent handle on it. You have to push the small handle slightly out of the detent and then rotate 90 degrees to open the valve. Tucks up very high next to oil pan. I don't think it presents any risk of breakage. I did have a problem in Coeur D'alene, Idaho once at a WalMart. The service manager refused to change the oil for me because he did not understand this valve(?!). I guess he thought it would be a liability for WalMart somehow if the valve later failed(?).
In spite of the 14 - 15 qt drain pan required, oil changes on my Excursion are the easiest of any I've ever done.
For oil changes, I've changed both of my Excursions over to Fumoto valves. It is a great addition for not much money. Allows absolute control over when/where the oil goes when you want to drain it. You no longer have to go looking for the drain plug or worry whether the gasket needs to be replaced.
For the diesels, the Fumoto allows me to stop draining in mid change. I had to change oil into 1 gallon jugs in an RV park in the middle of Wyoming. I was able to fill the jug to within 1" of the top and then stop the flow until I could get the next jug. Carried that used oil home so it could be recycled.
The Fumoto valve is a brass bodied ball valve with a very short spring-detent handle on it. You have to push the small handle slightly out of the detent and then rotate 90 degrees to open the valve. Tucks up very high next to oil pan. I don't think it presents any risk of breakage. I did have a problem in Coeur D'alene, Idaho once at a WalMart. The service manager refused to change the oil for me because he did not understand this valve(?!). I guess he thought it would be a liability for WalMart somehow if the valve later failed(?).
In spite of the 14 - 15 qt drain pan required, oil changes on my Excursion are the easiest of any I've ever done.
#37
I drained a warm engine for over an hour (so it was "empty") and filled with a 5 liter jug (5.28 quarts) plus one quart of Mobil 1 combined with a Fram Toughgard filter and after driving to work (obviously the engine had turned over and completely filled the filter and circulated to whatever passages had drained), my dipstick showed at the very top of the cross-hatch area which is a little below the top hole drilled in the stick. I am very comfortable with this refill. This v10 truck has only 25,000 miles and absolutely no leaks.
#38
Another totally random observation loosely related to topic:
For oil changes, I've changed both of my Excursions over to Fumoto valves. It is a great addition for not much money. Allows absolute control over when/where the oil goes when you want to drain it. You no longer have to go looking for the drain plug or worry whether the gasket needs to be replaced.
For the diesels, the Fumoto allows me to stop draining in mid change. I had to change oil into 1 gallon jugs in an RV park in the middle of Wyoming. I was able to fill the jug to within 1" of the top and then stop the flow until I could get the next jug. Carried that used oil home so it could be recycled.
The Fumoto valve is a brass bodied ball valve with a very short spring-detent handle on it. You have to push the small handle slightly out of the detent and then rotate 90 degrees to open the valve. Tucks up very high next to oil pan. I don't think it presents any risk of breakage. I did have a problem in Coeur D'alene, Idaho once at a WalMart. The service manager refused to change the oil for me because he did not understand this valve(?!). I guess he thought it would be a liability for WalMart somehow if the valve later failed(?).
In spite of the 14 - 15 qt drain pan required, oil changes on my Excursion are the easiest of any I've ever done.
For oil changes, I've changed both of my Excursions over to Fumoto valves. It is a great addition for not much money. Allows absolute control over when/where the oil goes when you want to drain it. You no longer have to go looking for the drain plug or worry whether the gasket needs to be replaced.
For the diesels, the Fumoto allows me to stop draining in mid change. I had to change oil into 1 gallon jugs in an RV park in the middle of Wyoming. I was able to fill the jug to within 1" of the top and then stop the flow until I could get the next jug. Carried that used oil home so it could be recycled.
The Fumoto valve is a brass bodied ball valve with a very short spring-detent handle on it. You have to push the small handle slightly out of the detent and then rotate 90 degrees to open the valve. Tucks up very high next to oil pan. I don't think it presents any risk of breakage. I did have a problem in Coeur D'alene, Idaho once at a WalMart. The service manager refused to change the oil for me because he did not understand this valve(?!). I guess he thought it would be a liability for WalMart somehow if the valve later failed(?).
In spite of the 14 - 15 qt drain pan required, oil changes on my Excursion are the easiest of any I've ever done.
+1 on these, they are awesome! never get splashed with oil again
#39
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