SUBBED! good luck bro

 

so where or from what do you get forged pistons

 

Over at the Ford Six Performance board there are a few folks who've used solid roller cams in strip engines. Frenchtown Flyer for one.

Maybe a drag only head, but a street head would need a blank cast with water passages before it even touched a CNC mill. Anything that one-off would be mondo expensive.

Over on FSP there's a thread on an aluminum head that's been in the works for 4-5 years now - they finally got castings back from the foundry and are working on prototypes. It's a U-turn head, though, IIRC.

 

I was reading on my previous posts and realize I was all over the board on what I wanted to do with this project. I apologize. For clarity's sake, I decided against the roller cam, going with a custom flat tappet 212/212 grind from comp cams. No forged pistons, getting 8.5:1 compression hypereutectic pistons. I still need to call a turbo place about going with a 5.9L cummins turbo or ordering one from turbonetics.

On the question about forged pistons, anywhere that custom makes them. As long as you have the specs, they'll make whatever you want . . . for a price.

Update: Getting the block bored next week, then going to order the kit in. Stock gaskets, except the head gasket. Probably going to go with an MLS or copper head gasket so I can run 15psi of boost if needed, along with ARP head studs. High volume oil pump, and stainless steel exhaust valves.
The engine design is sturdy so i'm not too concerned with much else.


A tidbit of useless information also...on my efi 4.9L engine, the ford 2.3L and 2.5L HSC engines use the same pedestal mount rockers as the 4.9L. Of course, nobody ever made any performance parts for those inline 4's, but some searching on forums for performance stuff for those engines revealed a bit of info. Some people use Ford 460 pedestal mount roller rockers on them and use different length pushrods to make it work. By the associative property, wouldn't that reason to say the same would work on the six? (ponder)

On the megasquirt issue, holy cow is it complicated! If you plan on doing anything megasquirt, it's awesome at how much control is available, but be prepared to do a lot of reading.
On my '87 4.9L, it's a TFI system, so this is the setup I'm planning on:
-Megasquirt II
-TFI Ford adapter kit
-Electronic boost control kit
Megasquirt is cool because it allows a person to tune on the fly, using a computer.


I'll see if I can attach a couple photos of painted parts...
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[IMG][/IMG]

 

I've been thinking about doing this to my 6 as well. But it will be awhile. I don't think I will build an engine with forged components but rather just a stock rebuild + fuel mods and tuning. I'd really like to see the manifold you modify, my fabrication skills are quite awful since I have no real welding experience. If there was a bolt on manifold I would have turbo'd my truck by now to be honest. I can do everything else.

I think a HX35 is perfect for this engine. Should spool fairly quick and pull all the way through the RPM range. Have you thought about injector size and a fuel pressure regulator? Most boosted setups I've worked with always required a 1:1 rising fuel pressure regulator, for 1 psi of boost 1 psi of fuel pressure will be increased as well. As far I know, the factory fpr doesn't work that way. Meth injection would be great paired with 93 octane. As long as you have no knock or detonation, even non-forged pistons will live a long life. The life of your engine will depend a lot on your tune. Mitsubishi used cast pistons (either 7.8:1 in the 90-94s or 8.5:1 in the 95-99s) and ran 10-12psi through 90-99 Eclipses/Talons, it was rare to have internal engine failure on those cars unless the owner neglected replacing the timing belts. If you can find 9.0:1 pistons they should work fine as long as your not pushing a ton of boost (say 15+psi) and you're not running a ridiculous amount of ignition timing.

 

I haven't been very decisive about injector sizes. I planned on using the stock 60psi regulator and tuning to make up for it being the type of regulator it is.
My plans for the exhaust were to join the two stock manifolds together and try to keep the two exhaust paths separated all the way to the turbo to help prevent reversion.
I talked to my machinist and we are ordering pistons with a target compression ratio of 8.5:1.
Don't forget with a turbo engine that exhaust gasses are higher. I would never do a stock rebuild and add a turbo. Custom grind a cam to get the most out of your turbo. Install stainless steel exhaust valves so they don't get soft and warp. Put in a better head gasket and use head studs instead of bolts.
I'll post pics when I get the exhaust piping done.

Thanks for the input!

 

I just bought an hx35 for my turbo 300 build. I'm deciding between megasquirt and the holley hp efi kit for fuel managment. From my research a hx35 is a good match. There is a member over on fordsix using one with good results, and the 5.0 mustang guys say it spools quick but restricts at high rpm. Sounds perfect for a 300 spinning 3500 max rpm. They are also extremely durable and have much aftermarket support. I have not yet tryed it, but I think it's going to work well

 

Here is a hypereutectic dished stock replacement piston I plan to use in my next build.



I have run roller cams in several 300s and 240s I have built. Some used 460 lifters. They are a drop in if you are using the Crane style with dog bones that separate. It gets a little more complicated if you use the type where the tie bars are held in with Allen screws, byt the C - C spacing is the same

 

So I can use 460 roller lifters with crane's hydraulic roller cam? Sweet. Now I wonder what a custom grind hydraulic roller cam would cost..

 

Hey French town flyer, any reason the fordsix forum didn't activate my account?

 

I talked to a comp cams and isky and they could do one but it would cost too much. From comp cams, $835.15 for a custom grind.
I did a lot of research on the 460 roller lifters. I heard that there is some grinding required on the block on #6? Otherwise the lifter won't go in. Isn't the impression for the pushrod offset and not in the exact center for the 460 rollers?

 

NO. You would need hydraulic roller lifters. I don't know who makes them for a 300.

Any roller lifter will rquire grinding of the #1 and #6 bosses for tie bar clearance. If the kind of lifter you are using has the tie bar on the outside they will work with no further work. If the kind of lifter you are using has the tie bar screwed on the inside they will need further work to fit.

 

I don't have anything to do with running that forum.

 

Hey FTF, do you think the roller cam in a ford 300 is really worth the input cost if, say, a person is driving it daily? (less than 3800rpm) Or would you only recommend it on race applications since rollers only really shine in high rpms?

I spent many sleepless nights with an annoyed fiance debating this issue over and over again in my head.

 

I'm stuck on the same issue too. I doubt there will be any real performance gain at the low rpms these engines spin, but in longevity, especially with today's oils, would be a benefit