View Poll Results: SAS 44 or TTB Lift or TTB Stock
Voters: 40. You may not vote on this poll
SAS or TTB? Get this out of the way!
#1
SAS or TTB? Get this out of the way!
NOTE: I HAVE LOOKED AT FSB BUT I CAN NOT GET THE THING TO LOAD UP FOR ME ON THE FORUMS! THIS IS WHY I POSTED HERE! Thanks.
Ok, I'm tired of it. I am going to make a voting thread to see what I need to do because I am getting mixed answers BUT I do appreciate the help people SO maybe a poll and some explainations will finally get it through my thick skull.
I have a 1990 Bronco, 300, ZF5, 31s. It is my daily driver. I do tow with it once in awhile but not all the time and do some offroad driving. I wanted to lift it because I think it would look way better lifted and can maneuver around areas better.
I have just gotten a TTB 6" Procomp lift from a guy on here. I've been researching and have been pulled in both directions of why TTB is good or TTB is bad or that the SAS 44 would just be the same with the TTB.
I have been reading some people have problems with parts from the 6" lifts breaking on the TTB and causing problems to steering (which they have to invest in more money to get the steering straight when they COULD have done the SAS for cheaper and less worries), to finally where people say they just wished they swapped in a solid axle.
I do have a 1979 Ford F150 with a lift on it (which barely fits thirty-eights under it). I could do the SAS but I don't know exactly know what all I need. The 79 needs other work on it so it is sitting...plan to do a DANA 60 swap on it later. This would mean I would have to pull my 79 to our farm and pull the axle out there in the open, on grass, thus leaving it in the weather until I finally build my shop and can move it in the shop some how.
I know I can use the coil buckets, coils, stock radius arms, most of the steering linkages and drop pitman arm from the 79 BUT I now see some folks saying I will need a different drag link and a short track bar. LIKE WTF do I need?!?
People told me I could use the extended brake lines from the TTB lift on the SAS and possiby the drop radius arm brackets too.
Then I see people having alignment issues with the SAS after they are done.
So, I just don't know what exactly to do. WHAT WOULD YOU DO?!? Lift the TTB, keep stock, or just SAS the joker.
Just hate doing the TTB lift and come back with regrets and hear, "TOLD YOU SO"
Thanks
Ok, I'm tired of it. I am going to make a voting thread to see what I need to do because I am getting mixed answers BUT I do appreciate the help people SO maybe a poll and some explainations will finally get it through my thick skull.
I have a 1990 Bronco, 300, ZF5, 31s. It is my daily driver. I do tow with it once in awhile but not all the time and do some offroad driving. I wanted to lift it because I think it would look way better lifted and can maneuver around areas better.
I have just gotten a TTB 6" Procomp lift from a guy on here. I've been researching and have been pulled in both directions of why TTB is good or TTB is bad or that the SAS 44 would just be the same with the TTB.
I have been reading some people have problems with parts from the 6" lifts breaking on the TTB and causing problems to steering (which they have to invest in more money to get the steering straight when they COULD have done the SAS for cheaper and less worries), to finally where people say they just wished they swapped in a solid axle.
I do have a 1979 Ford F150 with a lift on it (which barely fits thirty-eights under it). I could do the SAS but I don't know exactly know what all I need. The 79 needs other work on it so it is sitting...plan to do a DANA 60 swap on it later. This would mean I would have to pull my 79 to our farm and pull the axle out there in the open, on grass, thus leaving it in the weather until I finally build my shop and can move it in the shop some how.
I know I can use the coil buckets, coils, stock radius arms, most of the steering linkages and drop pitman arm from the 79 BUT I now see some folks saying I will need a different drag link and a short track bar. LIKE WTF do I need?!?
People told me I could use the extended brake lines from the TTB lift on the SAS and possiby the drop radius arm brackets too.
Then I see people having alignment issues with the SAS after they are done.
So, I just don't know what exactly to do. WHAT WOULD YOU DO?!? Lift the TTB, keep stock, or just SAS the joker.
Just hate doing the TTB lift and come back with regrets and hear, "TOLD YOU SO"
Thanks
#2
If you're planning on D60 for the F150 and it is just sitting at the moment anyway, I don't see why you wouldn't use that axle, you already have most everything you need.
Unless you're doing high speed dessert stuff and have a bunch of money to make the TTB viable for that, I would go with the SAS. It is better at everything except speed, and maybe ride, depending on how you do your SAS. Go with deaver coils for a 78/79 and it'll ride like a got damn caddy.
Unless you're doing high speed dessert stuff and have a bunch of money to make the TTB viable for that, I would go with the SAS. It is better at everything except speed, and maybe ride, depending on how you do your SAS. Go with deaver coils for a 78/79 and it'll ride like a got damn caddy.
#3
well, 6" of lift on a 80-96 would clear 37-38s and that would make a TTB hate life offroad so I vote SAS. If you plan on keeping the 31s dont waste your time/money.
If you go with the SAS give this a look. Pretty much step by step and if you get stumped PM me.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ic-or-two.html
If you go with the SAS give this a look. Pretty much step by step and if you get stumped PM me.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ic-or-two.html
#4
If you're planning on D60 for the F150 and it is just sitting at the moment anyway, I don't see why you wouldn't use that axle, you already have most everything you need.
Unless you're doing high speed dessert stuff and have a bunch of money to make the TTB viable for that, I would go with the SAS. It is better at everything except speed, and maybe ride, depending on how you do your SAS. Go with deaver coils for a 78/79 and it'll ride like a got damn caddy.
Unless you're doing high speed dessert stuff and have a bunch of money to make the TTB viable for that, I would go with the SAS. It is better at everything except speed, and maybe ride, depending on how you do your SAS. Go with deaver coils for a 78/79 and it'll ride like a got damn caddy.
I'm just stuck on what I exactly need for the swap when I do it.
Some say a short track bar and a F350 drag link.
I hate to jump on it and then find out... "Oh hell, I don't know what else I need....no one told me".
I plan to use the 79 Ford shock tower which connects to the track bar.
The 79 frame must be wider than the 90 Broncos frame if I have to get a shorter track bar.
I plan to run at least 35s if not 33s but really 35s once I find some.
#5
#6
Only have hand tools, DeWalt electric impact gun, and torque wrench to do my work.
I thought I could
-Take 90 coil buckets off and install 79 coil buckets
-Take off 90 shocks, etc and install the 79 shock tower
-Pull TTB out and all of it components and slide the Dana 44 and it components in
-Install the TTB radius arm drop brackets and connect the Dana 44 stock radius arms to it.
-Connect the track bar on the Dana 44 into the shock tower like it was on the 79.
-Connect drop pitman arm to my 90 Bronco steering gear box
DONE
I bet I screwed up, didn't I?
#7
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#8
Where did you get this at:
For tie rods, drag link and trac bar we are using 1.5 x .250 DOM with 5 -3/4 thread x 3/4 bore and 1- 3/4 thread x 5/8 bore chromemoly heims with kevlar liners.
Looks like my 3pt hitch link on my tractor.
Could I just use a F350 drag link?
I don't know about the track bar...
For tie rods, drag link and trac bar we are using 1.5 x .250 DOM with 5 -3/4 thread x 3/4 bore and 1- 3/4 thread x 5/8 bore chromemoly heims with kevlar liners.
Looks like my 3pt hitch link on my tractor.
Could I just use a F350 drag link?
I don't know about the track bar...
#9
Please do not use tractor top links for your suspension...
I bought the DOM from my local steel supplier as a full stick (21' IIRC). Several companies sell DOM by the foot if you would rather buy it like that though. I think the heims and threaded inserts came from Dan at Ruffstuffspecialties.com but they are readily available at most any 4wd fabrication supplier just like the DOM.
Yes you can use a 350 drag link with the stock 79 tie rod. You will still most likely need to make your own trac bar and trac bar bracket. Getting the drag link and trac bar as close to parallel as possible is the key to eliminating bumpsteer.
I bought the DOM from my local steel supplier as a full stick (21' IIRC). Several companies sell DOM by the foot if you would rather buy it like that though. I think the heims and threaded inserts came from Dan at Ruffstuffspecialties.com but they are readily available at most any 4wd fabrication supplier just like the DOM.
Yes you can use a 350 drag link with the stock 79 tie rod. You will still most likely need to make your own trac bar and trac bar bracket. Getting the drag link and trac bar as close to parallel as possible is the key to eliminating bumpsteer.
#10
There's a brazillion threads on this and a whole section devoted to it on fullsizebronco.com
There is also two threads in the tech sticky 9.ford.5 or something like that has one and then a/o's. He used tube and heim joints for the steering. You can order premade links from several companies that are on pirate4x4 if you know the length, or you can use an F350 drag link and stock style trac bar. I'm not sure if you need a shorter one or not.
There is also two threads in the tech sticky 9.ford.5 or something like that has one and then a/o's. He used tube and heim joints for the steering. You can order premade links from several companies that are on pirate4x4 if you know the length, or you can use an F350 drag link and stock style trac bar. I'm not sure if you need a shorter one or not.
#11
Please do not use tractor top links for your suspension...
I bought the DOM from my local steel supplier as a full stick (21' IIRC). Several companies sell DOM by the foot if you would rather buy it like that though. I think the heims and threaded inserts came from Dan at Ruffstuffspecialties.com but they are readily available at most any 4wd fabrication supplier just like the DOM.
Yes you can use a 350 drag link with the stock 79 tie rod. You will still most likely need to make your own trac bar and trac bar bracket. Getting the drag link and trac bar as close to parallel as possible is the key to eliminating bumpsteer.
I bought the DOM from my local steel supplier as a full stick (21' IIRC). Several companies sell DOM by the foot if you would rather buy it like that though. I think the heims and threaded inserts came from Dan at Ruffstuffspecialties.com but they are readily available at most any 4wd fabrication supplier just like the DOM.
Yes you can use a 350 drag link with the stock 79 tie rod. You will still most likely need to make your own trac bar and trac bar bracket. Getting the drag link and trac bar as close to parallel as possible is the key to eliminating bumpsteer.
So you are saying that this set up with the track bar connect to shock towers won't work or that my track bar I have on the Dana 44 now is to long?
#12
The 3fiddy trac bar is very short - like 16". The stock 79 trac bar will not work either.
An SAS is not a direct bolt in deal.You will need to cut some stuff, weld some stuff and make some things fit correctly. Its not hard at all but it is not meant for everyone with a $20 Walmart tool set and 3hours of free time.
An SAS is not a direct bolt in deal.You will need to cut some stuff, weld some stuff and make some things fit correctly. Its not hard at all but it is not meant for everyone with a $20 Walmart tool set and 3hours of free time.
#13
There's a brazillion threads on this and a whole section devoted to it on fullsizebronco.com
There is also two threads in the tech sticky 9.ford.5 or something like that has one and then a/o's. He used tube and heim joints for the steering. You can order premade links from several companies that are on pirate4x4 if you know the length, or you can use an F350 drag link and stock style trac bar. I'm not sure if you need a shorter one or not.
There is also two threads in the tech sticky 9.ford.5 or something like that has one and then a/o's. He used tube and heim joints for the steering. You can order premade links from several companies that are on pirate4x4 if you know the length, or you can use an F350 drag link and stock style trac bar. I'm not sure if you need a shorter one or not.
#15
10-4
Questions:
Do I need new alignment bushings as you stated in your SAS thread Alpha, the 4* ones?
I can't use my new drag link which is already on my 79 can I?
I can't use my 79 shock tower (which has the track bar hole already in it) can I?
What would be the best option for track bar? I know you mentioned the one you did...how much was it? Or do I need to cut the track bar from the 79 and have someone weld it for me or is this a bad idea (seems like it- LOL)?
Questions:
Do I need new alignment bushings as you stated in your SAS thread Alpha, the 4* ones?
I can't use my new drag link which is already on my 79 can I?
I can't use my 79 shock tower (which has the track bar hole already in it) can I?
What would be the best option for track bar? I know you mentioned the one you did...how much was it? Or do I need to cut the track bar from the 79 and have someone weld it for me or is this a bad idea (seems like it- LOL)?