'65 240 ci engine paint (again)
#1
'65 240 ci engine paint (again)
Hey all,
Nick here again... I got my engine back from the machine shop, in pieces as requested. I now have 300% more into my truck than what I paid for it. Yippee. It's got a new cam and rebuilt 10/10 crank. The cylinders are now 30 over. The rebuilder bought me cast pistons, I'm not sure how I feel about that. Anyway... original question...
What's the proper black for the engine block, and what parts on the engine are painted that color? Water pump? Timing cover? Bell housing? I remember seeing somewhere that the valve cover and air cleaner are a glossier black. Is this true?
I'm also sort of concerned about painting the intake manifold with normal engine paint... because it has exhaust going into it where the carb is. Can normal engine paint take that heat? I'm thinking I'll be using Eastwood 650F engine paint.
While I'm asking questions... the head bolts appear to be simply grade 8 bolts. Is that still advisable to use? I've seen the ARP stud kit and am tempted.
Should I keep the engine hardware a natural color, or paint them black like the rest of the motor?
Much thanks!
Nick here again... I got my engine back from the machine shop, in pieces as requested. I now have 300% more into my truck than what I paid for it. Yippee. It's got a new cam and rebuilt 10/10 crank. The cylinders are now 30 over. The rebuilder bought me cast pistons, I'm not sure how I feel about that. Anyway... original question...
What's the proper black for the engine block, and what parts on the engine are painted that color? Water pump? Timing cover? Bell housing? I remember seeing somewhere that the valve cover and air cleaner are a glossier black. Is this true?
I'm also sort of concerned about painting the intake manifold with normal engine paint... because it has exhaust going into it where the carb is. Can normal engine paint take that heat? I'm thinking I'll be using Eastwood 650F engine paint.
While I'm asking questions... the head bolts appear to be simply grade 8 bolts. Is that still advisable to use? I've seen the ARP stud kit and am tempted.
Should I keep the engine hardware a natural color, or paint them black like the rest of the motor?
Much thanks!
#2
The eastwood kits are really good, i have a quart for my 390 (when i get it back from the machine shop) i will put it to use. while you have it apart clean and paint everything you can... nothing looks worse than a nice looking rebuilt engine with unpainted rough looking brackets and such bolted to it. IMO
#4
#5
If you use the Eastwood engine paints, I do, they can be sprayed on or brushed on. On an engine block brushed on and you couldn't tell the difference. For a valve cover I'd spray it on since you need smooth. One other note this paint can be used straight out of the can or you can use a urethane activator with it. That will make the paint much tougher than any spray bomb paint. Just mix it 4:1 and then brush it on the block. Pot life isn't that quick so you have plenty of time.
#6
I have not found an aerosol can of 'engine' paint that last anymore than 2-3 yrs. Decided to give Por's 15 'engine' paint a try, applied couple coats with spray gun, this was over 5 yrs. ago and still holding up well. When it came to brackets, pulleys, etc. I use "zero rust' and found it works extremely well, regret not using the paint on inner fenders rather than Por 15 black. As for the exhaust manifold, other than having them powder coated, found the can of Por 15 'exhaust' paint, which can be applied by brush or spray gun, did not last more than couple yrs and decided to give VHT 'fireproof' paint a try, which I purchased thru Summit, item description says has a temp range of up to 2000 degrees? . Anyhow, some other suggestions?
#7
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