Well i wanna try to keep the same paint manufacturer for the whole process so i dont have any adhesion problems. I already started using summit racing paint and they dont have any blues i like that arent metallic. Plus im leaning towards the red any and its gonna be a couple years until its ready to paint so im probably gonna change my mind a few more times haha.

 

If you are waiting a couple of years before paint, it would be best to wait before purchasing as you will change your mind - guaranteed.

I bought my truck the day before the super bowl last year. Bought the paint a couple of months later, and changed my mind about 5 months after that. Fortunately, I will still use the original satin black and I am only paying around $115/gal for the single stage I am using. As it is my first attempt at body and paint, I wasn't quite brave enough to pay for the top end paint.

So far I have shot all of my fenders and the box and have been happy with the results. Just waiting for the weather to warm up so I can finish the cab, doors, and hood.

Keep up the good work.

 

So it wasnt too hard learning how to paint? where did you spray your colors?

I wont be painting for a while but im gonna be priming some of my panels soon and i already bought summit primer.

 

A friend has painted for a while, so I watched him and picked his brain. Bought a cheap CH gravity feed gun, mixed to spec, and tried it out. Went well, I thought.

When I painted the fenders first, I plastic sheeted off a 10 ft. square in the wife's horse barn (fumes - she wasn't happy). After that, I just painted outside when there wasn't any wind. I was doing it in the summer/fall, so I generally did it mid-morning when the temps were around 65-70 or so.

The only time I got any dirt/crud in anything was when I had laid a piece of plywood down on the ground and shot the cowl pieces that went over and under the grill. I was running out of room and got them too close to the edge of the plywood, and kicked up a little dirt when I sprayed. Otherwise, I propped the fenders up on either sawhorses or wood tables and it seemed to work fine.

Primer is great to practice with since you are going to sand it out anyway so, if you get a run or other mistake, you just sand it out and shoot again.

 

not sure if you decided on a four link yet but i'd recommend going parallel. the frame rails are so narrow on these trucks, it's tight. i'm in the process of installing one now, and to get the upper bars at the proper angle takes some fabricating. a parallel also leaves much more room for rear exit exhaust, and is almost a no brainer to install.

 

I got the back of the frame all boxed and notched finally. The rear suspension isnt going as quick as the front did since its a universal kit. Theres a lot more figuring out. I would post pics but i cant get my photo bucket account to work. Im gonna start mocking up the four link this week.

 

I already got the triangulated four link. The parrelel kits i looked at put the front link mount right where the rear running board mounts are. Im gonna be running side exit exhaust anyway.

 

A trick that a painter friend of mine taught me is when spraying color or clear, spray two light coats that don't flow - it will look almost like it is dry specks - about 10 to 15 minutes apart. Then about 15 minutes later spray a heavier coat that flows. The first two coats will make it sticky and won't run. It takes some practice, but it has worked for me. I had never really been able to spray cars before learning this trick. I am using Urethane, just make sure you have ventilation and wear a good respirator with new charcoal filters or a fresh air supplied hood. The Urethane is really harmful to your lungs!

 

Hey thanks a lot! Ive never heard that before. I will definitely keep that in mind when i start painting!

 

Got the photbucket to work now!

 

I picked up a transmission today. Its a t56 out of a 95 camaro. Im gonna have to change the input shaft and front plate to that of an ls1 t56 but thats not gonna too hard. I only paid $900 for it.

 

Good find! I used the OEM GM Clutch MC to be consistant with the slave cylinder size and hose quick release connector. It's a stealth flat black glass filled resin cylinder that angles down from the firewall with a frosted nylon remote reservoir.

 

The last two issues of Rod and Custom has had articles by Charlie Hutton (he's the custom painter that worked for Boyd Coddington when the shop was on American Hot Rod, then left to paint for Chip Foose. He painted Foose's latest Riddler award winner.) on using the latest waterborne paints from PPG. Charlie uses them almost exclusively in his paint business. PPG just released a direct to metal waterborn primer (DTM means it doesn't need any sealer or etching primer under it) as well as a single stage waterborne basecoat. (no waterborne clearcoat just yet, it's coming!)
Since they use water solvent, and do not use a catalyst, they have an almost unlimited pot life and are very safe to use, making cleanup easy and not requiring more than a basic dust mask. Charlie even paints in street clothes rather than the typical NASA style hazardous material coveralls required for urethanes. He claims although meant for the pros, they are so easy to apply that they are ideal for the DIYer.

 

Now thats some great info. Ill have to look into that. Even though i already bought some epoxy primer and the ppg stuff is probably expensive, it will be well worth it to save my lungs. Thanks!

 

The rear suspension is all set up and tacked in place. i just have to finish weld it and mount a shock cross member once i get the shocks.