Help on getting better gas mileage
#31
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Wabanaki Indian Territory
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31 Posts
65+ Vehicle modifications for better fuel economy - EcoModder.com
100+ Hypermiling / ecodriving tips & tactics for better mpg - EcoModder.com
mine:
i get passed more times than i can count in a single day (it's not due to a lack of power,but a light foot) lol.but when she hauls so much at once,what's the hurry anyway i figure? more often than not,im going the local speed limit anyway.seems most folk don't follow the rules of the road anymore.i don't mind.shoot,i even pull to the side to help 'em on by most of the time.
i need to move by tool boxes outward so i can skirt between them over the wheels still.letting the airflow stumble over that opening is a big no no.
thinking about some of that cosmetic (it's just thin for looks) black diamond plate aluminum sheets to smooth out the stake sides.
i have a couple warped dually rims that cause some vibration i need to replace.those are not helping,and i plan on adding an inter cooler to the old school diesel to try and help efficiency a bit more there.
it's too bad the cummins swap is so costly,cus id love to have that straight 6 diesel.that would be a sweet boost i bet.way too much $ and fabrication.id never get my $ back during ownership.just the same,iv developed a soft spot for the old legend now.
forgot,i still need to swap to the turbo specific injection pump now that iv added a turbo,so i can have a better timing curve.
geeze.more than i thought to do,to this old gal still......always something.
100+ Hypermiling / ecodriving tips & tactics for better mpg - EcoModder.com
mine:
i get passed more times than i can count in a single day (it's not due to a lack of power,but a light foot) lol.but when she hauls so much at once,what's the hurry anyway i figure? more often than not,im going the local speed limit anyway.seems most folk don't follow the rules of the road anymore.i don't mind.shoot,i even pull to the side to help 'em on by most of the time.
i need to move by tool boxes outward so i can skirt between them over the wheels still.letting the airflow stumble over that opening is a big no no.
thinking about some of that cosmetic (it's just thin for looks) black diamond plate aluminum sheets to smooth out the stake sides.
i have a couple warped dually rims that cause some vibration i need to replace.those are not helping,and i plan on adding an inter cooler to the old school diesel to try and help efficiency a bit more there.
it's too bad the cummins swap is so costly,cus id love to have that straight 6 diesel.that would be a sweet boost i bet.way too much $ and fabrication.id never get my $ back during ownership.just the same,iv developed a soft spot for the old legend now.
forgot,i still need to swap to the turbo specific injection pump now that iv added a turbo,so i can have a better timing curve.
geeze.more than i thought to do,to this old gal still......always something.
#32
I've had two longbed trucks, and I've had enough loose junk in the bed to see the effects--the airflow is down in the back near the tailgate and up near the rear window--and it's not high-speed air, it's the slow bubble of air. I've even seen stuff caught in the bubble doing loops.
I have a good friend who went through the Aviation Engineering program at Purdue. They did all the calculations--it's tailgate up on a longbed for best mileage. Mythbusters tested it also--tailgate up. Sorry, my friend, but you're on the wrong side of science.
Jason
I have a good friend who went through the Aviation Engineering program at Purdue. They did all the calculations--it's tailgate up on a longbed for best mileage. Mythbusters tested it also--tailgate up. Sorry, my friend, but you're on the wrong side of science.
Jason
The fact that the "bubble" exists is not proof that it's better, in fact it's proof of the low pressure "drag" behind the cab. What matters is it's effect compared to the effect of the pressures on an up tailgate. The taller the tailgate, lower the cab, longer the cab, shallower the windsheild, the more likely that at a given speed, overall drag will be reduced with the tailgate down.
#33
Heck ya I got a tip too !!!
Quote:[Another thought. On most modern cars, there are two engine temperature senders. One goes to your gauge on the dash. The other goes to your engine computer. If the one going to the computer is malfunctioning, it might cause your engine to eternally run in the warm up mode. This gives the engine a richer fuel mixture than it needs, thereby wasting gas.]:Quote
I didn't see this mentioned so here goes ... as mentioned above when the computer detects operating temp ... 192* it will stop adding more fuel to warm up. If your T-stat is not a 195* one your MPG will suffer... speaking from first hand knowledge !!! Every little bit helps ... Dave
I didn't see this mentioned so here goes ... as mentioned above when the computer detects operating temp ... 192* it will stop adding more fuel to warm up. If your T-stat is not a 195* one your MPG will suffer... speaking from first hand knowledge !!! Every little bit helps ... Dave
#34
The bubble behind the cab means that there is smooth airflow over the cab and that bubble, which means less drag--it directs the faster moving air over the tailgate. Low pressure drag is greatest when there is high turbulence behind the cab. Opening the tailgate causes that high turbulence because the air drops sharply behind the cab, which then causes a low pressure area over the rear of the truck.
Jason
Jason
#36
The bubble behind the cab means that there is smooth airflow over the cab and that bubble, which means less drag--it directs the faster moving air over the tailgate. Low pressure drag is greatest when there is high turbulence behind the cab. Opening the tailgate causes that high turbulence because the air drops sharply behind the cab, which then causes a low pressure area over the rear of the truck.
Jason
Jason
By your logic a taller tailgate will always net lower drag, this clearly isn't true. Or a canopy will lower drag, this isn't true either. What matters is the slope between the top of the cab and the top of the tailgate AND the area left behind the tailgate.
#38
Ha! That's classic, I love it.
Yeah, I know how the airflow is thru the bed and that there's a tendency for stuff directly behind the cab to stay there. I use it to my advantage when hauling lightweight stuff like groceries from the store lol. I have owned enough trucks (3) to see that even an empty can will stay put, although it might float out of the bed and tumble around a bit before landing in the same spot.
I should have been clearer... on *my* 96 351 E4OD 3.55 geared 4x4 SuperCab shortbed, the tailgate up/down don't seem to make a difference. I'll go back and edit...
EDIT #2... was just thinkin... I have a full depth toolbox in the bed behind the cab. Which effectively reduces my bed to ~4 ft. Maybe that's why the tailgate doesn't make much of a difference? I drive with it up, regardless. Just to keep the airflow predictable if anything...
Yeah, I know how the airflow is thru the bed and that there's a tendency for stuff directly behind the cab to stay there. I use it to my advantage when hauling lightweight stuff like groceries from the store lol. I have owned enough trucks (3) to see that even an empty can will stay put, although it might float out of the bed and tumble around a bit before landing in the same spot.
I should have been clearer... on *my* 96 351 E4OD 3.55 geared 4x4 SuperCab shortbed, the tailgate up/down don't seem to make a difference. I'll go back and edit...
EDIT #2... was just thinkin... I have a full depth toolbox in the bed behind the cab. Which effectively reduces my bed to ~4 ft. Maybe that's why the tailgate doesn't make much of a difference? I drive with it up, regardless. Just to keep the airflow predictable if anything...
#42
its basically all city driving. and even with an automatic you want me to put it in neutral and down shift? i have probably a 200 pound toolbox full of stuff. i am going to get a tonneau cover eventually. but is it possible with a toolbox? and my tires i know dont help it at all. because it takes more gas to move that much tire.
#43
Yeah it's still possible to put it in neutral and/or downshift with an automatic. It's actually easier because you don't have to push in the clutch. I drive the same way in my automatic shift car as I do with my manual shift truck. The theory is the same. Not sure why so many people have trouble grasping this theory. That's what the other positions on your gear selector are for.
Anyways, people seem to be getting off topic with the tailgate up/down discussion. The tailgate being up or down is not going to be the sole culprit of the OPs 8 MPG problem. It seems like a combination of things: The truck should be well tuned-up, check your timing, cap, rotor and spark plugs. Make sure your computer temperature sender is working. Make sure you don't have a fuel leak. Go easy on the throttle and coast when possible. If you are doing only city driving, you probably won't get better than 12 MPG with your setup. These trucks have fuel thirsty v8s and the aerodynamics of a brick. If your looking for better MPG than that, you should consider a newer/smaller truck or a car.
Anyways, people seem to be getting off topic with the tailgate up/down discussion. The tailgate being up or down is not going to be the sole culprit of the OPs 8 MPG problem. It seems like a combination of things: The truck should be well tuned-up, check your timing, cap, rotor and spark plugs. Make sure your computer temperature sender is working. Make sure you don't have a fuel leak. Go easy on the throttle and coast when possible. If you are doing only city driving, you probably won't get better than 12 MPG with your setup. These trucks have fuel thirsty v8s and the aerodynamics of a brick. If your looking for better MPG than that, you should consider a newer/smaller truck or a car.